17 replies to this topic

[minifreek1]

Well further to this thread I started about repairing my sump plug...http://www.theminifo...mp-plug-repair/

 

Heres what I did..

 

Maybe not the correct procedure, but it works 100%...

 

So ...

 

Step 1 : Jack up car to gain access to sump... and make secure with axle stands and a wedge to stop the vehicle from rolling backwards....

 

Step 2 : Remove sump guard if fitted...

 

Step 3 : Remove sump plug and drain all oil, store in a safe place..

 

 

 

Step 4 : Get hold of a sump repair kit....

 

 

Step 5 : Select the size of plug you wish to use and the corresponding tap size...

 

Step 6 : Install the selected tap size into a drill that has plenty charge and has torque setting also...

 

 

 

Step 7 : Start to wind in the tap into the sump drain hole, slowly. If the torque setting keeps clicking keep stepping up the torque adjustment until it stops clicking but has enough to wind in the thread....

 

Step 8 : Unwind the tap and remove...

 

Step 9 : Get hold of the selected sump plug replacement and wind into the sump drain hole...

 

 

 

Step 10 : Keep winding until it stops flush with the sump wall itself.... In the photo it looks like it isnt square to the sump but it really is....

 

 

Step 11 : Replace the oil, and start the engine, get engine to warm and switch off.... Check your repair is succesful. Obviously there should be no oil seeping out of the plug or from around it....

 

Step 12 : Replace sump guard if fitted, and jack car back down onto its wheels....

 

Step 13 : Pat yourself on the back fr a job well done, tidy away tools and go have a cuppa....

Edited by minifreek1, 01 August 2017 - 03:20 PM.

[Midas Mk1]

Glad you got it sorted! Bet it's a good feeling have the Mini back on the road again!  

[minifreek1]

I didnt take it off the road to be honest just kept my eye on the temp repair I did and hoped it would'nt fall out... Which it didnt do - thankfully...

 

Got peace of mind with it now though....

 

Had a look earlier today (I did this repair a couple of days ago) there is no seepage from the repair, but think the kit should supply at least 1 dowty washer just to make sure it seals properly without having to overtighten the plug....

[SolarB]

Out of interest, what did you do about the swarf generated by tapping the casing?

[minifreek1]

Not a lot to be honest

 

Just got a rag and wipes it until there was none. Theres probably a little in the sump, most of it came out with the tap...

[sonikk4]

Seriously i would have flushed the engine at least once to make sure the majority of the swarf was removed. Its amazing just how much can be generated by this. Still a good repair though.

[benm]

should have poured the used oil back through to flush out the swarf

[Spider]

Nice work, I like it.

 

I'm now going away from the original Copper Washer used for sealing of the Plug to the Fibre types. It does usually mean I'll only get one or maybe two goes with each washer, but they don't need to be nearly as tight to make a seal, making them kinder on the Threads.

[Mervyn]

I used to use a washer called a stat o seal. Very similar to a dowty but never failed in my experience, even when reused

Probably don't exist now. But I'd recommend using that sort of washer instead of sealant or 'bollocking it up tight'


Merv

[minifreek1]

So, Iv just returned from a run out to a local car meet with another member (Midas Mk1) and had a gander at my repair... It seems I either need a dowty washer on the plug or a bigger - copper - washer to make a seal properly.  Had a look whillst at the meet and there is a slight weeping occuring, so its worked 95% but I didnt exactly tighten the sump plug up very tight, but just tight enough.. It could be the aluminium washer supplied with the repair kit, just aint big enough to effect a good seal. I am very happy with the repair, and would use the same kit again but would probably replace the supplied alloy washers with either dowty washers or copper washers that are thicker than the aluminium washers supplied in the kit...

 

The £18.88 that I spent on the repair kit is well worth it I reckon.... even if its used for a temporary repair...

[SolarB]

A few years ago my sump plug "gave" a little on tightening. You know the feeling, the one where the threads are about to let go. As a temporary fix I wrapped the plug thread with generous amounts of PTFE tape and hey presto, no leak and very little torque required to make a seal. It's been like this for 5 years now.
A solid copper washer is a strange choice for a hot fluid seal with virtually no pressure drop across the seal, I wonder if economics rather than good engineering was the deciding factor in choosing copper?

[minifreek1]

Its usually a copper washer used on the A series sump plugs.....?

 

Some vehicle manufacturers use an O ring to seal, but they're usually a specific type and only available from the parts depot.... They was at Vauxhalls everytime I changed the oil, couldn't just use an O ring that you get in the kit at Halfords.... They're either too thin or not got the specific diameter needed...

[DomCr250]

Nice one, glad it worked ... now you need to find a use for all those extra sump plugs and taps

[tiger99]

The residual leakage is likely to be due to the new thread being not exactly perpendicular to the sealing surface, so the washer would need to be slightly wedge shaped to fit exactly. You must have been very careful with your drilling and tapping to get it nearly right!

A Dowty or similar bonded rubber seal is the way forward, as it will take up a bit more unevenness, as people are suggesting. You could try the washer from a Ford Focus perhaps, but not the plug itself which has the wrong thread.

For anyone who wants to invest in some tooling and perhaps earn some income, I would suggest that after retreading, Helicoil in if needed, etc, a pilot guide would be screwed in and a hollow milling cutter, accurately guided by the pilot, would refaced the sealing surface so it was truly perpendicular to the thread.
If someone has success with that idea, please let us know, and expect a queue at your door.

[weef]

Sometimes when using a Helicoil type repair the oil can leak between the insert and the recut thread leading to trace leaks showing around the plug area after a run.

I usually use a sealant, Loctite hydraulic, although other products are available, when screwing in the insert and leaving a reasonable time to cure before fitting the plug and filling with oil. This is not a job that occurs often and as described good engineering practices have to be employed when rethreading the stripped sump,  ensuring the cut thread is square to the sump face is not easily achieved .

Copper washers can be softened by heating them up and letting them cool, this sometimes makes for a better seal as they deform more easily to take up irregularities on the plug face.