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Can't Get Into Gear/ Clutch Isn't Working


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#1 Syma

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Posted 27 July 2017 - 07:52 PM

So picture this. My restoration is done and my Tahiti blue 1979 mini 1000 looks amazing. I got the engine running and it sounds great so I thought it was time for a test drive but when I put the clutch in I can't get into gear. Any gears. I turn the engine off and I can shift through the gears though it is a little hard to find them with my new short through shifter. I check clutch fluid, bleed the system, I have good movement of the pre-verto arm. I set the gap on the little bolt and on the two large nuts but that doesn't help. When I had the engine out I did put in a new clutch plate and I am near positive that I put everything back together correct including the nut washer that fits in the groove. I can start the car in gear with my foot on the clutch and the brake but as soon as I start to let off the brake it roles forward. For the hell of it I raised the front end up on jack stands and I started the car. With the engine running I can change gears with little problem.

If anyone has any ideas that would be amazing. I have it booked in at a shop but there is literally only one guy where I live that works on these things and he isn't back from vacation for another week.

Thanks



#2 nicklouse

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Posted 27 July 2017 - 07:54 PM

so how far is the arm moving at the slave pin point?



#3 Cooperman

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Posted 27 July 2017 - 08:02 PM

There is a clutch drag problem solver which I posted a long time ago.

Do a search for it and it covers every possible problem.

As a quick guide, the top of the clutch arm have a linear movement of a minimum of 0.50"

If you replaced the primary gear bushes, are they too tight on the crankshaft. The latest ones do require a bit more clearance than the originals did.



#4 Syma

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Posted 27 July 2017 - 09:42 PM

so how far is the arm moving at the slave pin point?

about 1/2 an inch 



#5 Syma

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Posted 27 July 2017 - 09:44 PM

There is a clutch drag problem solver which I posted a long time ago.

Do a search for it and it covers every possible problem.

As a quick guide, the top of the clutch arm have a linear movement of a minimum of 0.50"

If you replaced the primary gear bushes, are they too tight on the crankshaft. The latest ones do require a bit more clearance than the originals did.

I didn't replace the primary gear bushes. I will look up your post now



#6 kiwi topcat

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Posted 28 July 2017 - 12:44 AM

same problem here after a rebuild done by others

ended up changing master cylinder, all of the clevis pins and clutch arm that had the ball smooth on one side.

 

heaps better BUT as the engine warms up it is like no syncro

 

been told it probably the 2 gears on the crank behind the flywheel with not enough play.

 

have not gone further as yet.

 

 



#7 Syma

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Posted 28 July 2017 - 02:38 PM

same problem here after a rebuild done by others

ended up changing master cylinder, all of the clevis pins and clutch arm that had the ball smooth on one side.

 

heaps better BUT as the engine warms up it is like no syncro

 

been told it probably the 2 gears on the crank behind the flywheel with not enough play.

 

have not gone further as yet.

 

 

I have check about everything and then I found this video that might help you as well.

Last night I removed the clutch and that sucks with the engine in. I am going to take my flywheel to a machine shop and have them remove 10 thou so it doesn't pinch up against the gear. If that doesn't help then I don't know what else to do.



#8 Cooperman

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Posted 28 July 2017 - 08:31 PM

I've never heard of a need to skim a flywheel to prevent clutch drag.
If the primary gear rotates on the flywheel it will not be a problem in that area.
As before, find my clutch drag document and work through it in the correct sequence.
Just a thought, but did you accurately re-set the overthrow stop nut and locknut after fitting it all up. The overthrow nut MUST be slackened off when the clutch arm stop bolt clearance is set and that must only be set once the linear movement at the top of the arm is confirmed as being a minimum of 0.5" with no clearance at the stop bolt.
Check out the clutch drag fault finder and follow it through.

#9 Its a min

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Posted 28 July 2017 - 11:19 PM

Here you go. Is this it Cooperman?

 

http://www.theminifo...l=+clutch +drag



#10 Syma

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Posted 29 July 2017 - 03:22 AM

Well I took the flywheel to a machine shop today and had them take 15 thou off. There was some abrasion on that surface before and just like that it works great. Still having trouble getting into reverse but that could just be me as today was the first time I have driven my mini... or any mini for that mater. 

 

Cooperman I did go through most of your list and it was a big help eliminating things and I have bookmarked it for future reference.

Thanks



#11 Rorf

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Posted 29 July 2017 - 07:01 AM

Is your pressure plate set up correctly? If it has been skimmed then the ears have to be skimmed too which machine shops who are not offey with minis fail to do. Basically when the diaphragm is bolted onto the flywheel then the inner spring plate should be absolutely flat for it to work correctly. There is a Utube on how to set it up correctly.






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