
Mot Fail On Co2

Best Answer Nu2mini , 16 August 2017 - 01:25 PM
When you've changed the Pipes I'd also recommend you check the vacuum servo on the air box. To do this take the car for a run until warm, then leave the engine running. Carefully insert a long screw driver or similar into the intake in the air box. When warm the 'Probe' should freely pass into the air box. Insert the probe gently. If you hit something halfway along the intake the butterfly flap is not opening and you are drawing warm air in from the exhaust manifold (5 on the diagram). A common fix to this is to unplug the vacuum pipe (Yellow) off the top of the airbox and plug the end of the pipe. You can leave the airbox end open. With this configuration the servo should not operate the butterfly which should stay permanently open. I run my car permanently like this
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#16
Posted 16 August 2017 - 01:07 PM
I'm Replacing vacuum plpes etc as suggested but this seal is perished and Mini Spares/ sport no longer stock them any ideas ( none on eBay).
Should I replace the oxygen IAT green sensor as well it looks ok but the is original.
Thanks again.
#17
Posted 16 August 2017 - 01:25 PM Best Answer
When you've changed the Pipes I'd also recommend you check the vacuum servo on the air box. To do this take the car for a run until warm, then leave the engine running. Carefully insert a long screw driver or similar into the intake in the air box. When warm the 'Probe' should freely pass into the air box. Insert the probe gently. If you hit something halfway along the intake the butterfly flap is not opening and you are drawing warm air in from the exhaust manifold (5 on the diagram). A common fix to this is to unplug the vacuum pipe (Yellow) off the top of the airbox and plug the end of the pipe. You can leave the airbox end open. With this configuration the servo should not operate the butterfly which should stay permanently open. I run my car permanently like this
#18
Posted 17 August 2017 - 03:49 PM
Thanks. Hope this fixes the CO emissions can't afford to keep re MOT ing ! Jon.
#19
Posted 19 August 2017 - 04:52 PM
#21
Posted 20 August 2017 - 09:54 AM
#22
Posted 20 August 2017 - 04:51 PM
#23
Posted 21 August 2017 - 07:02 PM
FS
#24
Posted 22 August 2017 - 04:23 PM
Jon
#25
Posted 22 August 2017 - 06:23 PM
#26
Posted 22 August 2017 - 08:36 PM
#27
Posted 23 August 2017 - 11:39 AM
If I pull the yellow vacuum pipe off it snaps open, is this a Thermic valve fault. The car failed mots on CO very high.
Can I run the car with is disconnected ( yellow pipe ) or does the Thermic valve control other things.
Thanks. Jon.
#28
Posted 24 August 2017 - 12:22 PM
There was a post on how to test this valve and I think it was by Sprocket he has done a section all about SPI and well worth reading.
when people change their air box to a K&N filter they put a bung in the red vacuum pipe, so it should be ok to bung the end of the yellow pipe you see at the top of the air filter box, you can't leave pipes to suck in air.
#29
Posted 27 August 2017 - 10:05 AM
So do I disconnect the yellow pipe to air inlet top or not ? Then blank it off. ? The airbox inlet stays shut even when the car is up to temperature but opens when I pull off the yellow pipe from the air inlet as some suggest, but will this upset the rest of the ECU/thermac valve as this valve is also connected to the manifold. ....should I replace the thermac valve - although it seems to be NLA.
Thanks for all help with this conundrum. Jon.
#30
Posted 20 January 2019 - 06:36 PM
from the linked page:
There are 4 vacuum pipes on the single point injection car.
MLH10022 Which has angled ends,fitted from inlet manifold to fuel trap.
MLH10022ECU to fuel trap.
PHP10027Air box underside to airbox hot air control valve.
NPC10001fuel trap.
PHP10043 VACUUM PIPE- FITS TO SPI AIR BOX to THROTTLE BODY (RED)
For single point injection cars only.
And another diagram
I don't suppose there is one of those diagrams for MPi?
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