88 replies to this topic

[mini13]

just glancing over the list you put up, and to cover the last couple of bits,

 

dump valve, yeah a good idea if your running higher boost, basically when you shut the throttle all the boost coming out of the turbo has nowhere to go so this opens and dumps it to atmosphere so prevents stress on the turbo, an old T3 would put up with the spike in presure pretty well, but more modern turbo's although more efficient are not as sturdy in this respect.

 

 

Clutch, this really depends on the power you are looking at developing, for turbo use I would go with a verto set up, a turbo verto pressure plate will probaby cope with 140-150hp, then there is the uprated ones, whioch will get to about 170hp, although this can be very dependant clutch to clutch as the springs seem to come up different strengths. beyond this you are looking at building an RTS (robert twin spring) a chap over on turbomini's came up with the idea of pulling apart two verto clutches and bunging both springs in one unit, with a pair of standart 1275 springs you should easily be able to cope with 220-240 hp,

 

a couple of reasons for staying with the verto's, fiorst they put far less load on the  crank thrusts with the clutch down, with double grey preverto's some people were wiping the thrusts out, the verto puts about 1/3 the load through to the thrusts. they are largly self adjusting, and also in my experience less prone to clutch judder.

 

below is a good overview of building one, and roberts original thread

 

 

http://www.turbomini...p=vt&tid=437563

 

http://www.turbomini...?p=vt&tid=10207

[Kilpot]

Thanks again for all the information guys. I think im going to start buying some bits and bobs soon. I think I want to aim for around 160-180 bhp as i want it to be rapid but i dont want to be on the limit of the the components. Im thinking of going for omega pistons as i have only heard good things about them but... Im completely new to any engine work so dont know what type or size I need haha. I know I want dished ones to lower the compression ration but thats about it haha, also do you need to change the part that the conrods or just the piston? 

 

Thanks again guys.

 

Quick edit.

 

As you guys have a lot of experience in this, Do you think as someone who has never taken an engine fully apart before(I've taken heads off and swapped clutches and stuff though) that I would be able to put the engine together myself or is there lots of special equipment that I would need? My dad does have almost all tools but are there some weird ones i would need haha?   

Edited by Kilpot, 07 August 2017 - 08:09 AM.

[magicmat]

it would be cheaper, and easier to buy a Metro turbo engine and fit that. 

 

I have one that is forsale, has been rebuilt and bored out with forged pistons etc, just like your spec list in the first post. 

 

Spec of the engine is:

 

Rebuilt Tall engine that has been sat since the rebuild as i never got around to restoring the shell.

 

- Rebuilt with all new bearings (Mains and CAM etc)

- Kent CAM installed

- Rebuilt stock Turbo

- Forged Pistons

- Copper Headgasket

- Carb and Intake Manifold

- Water pump

- Gearbox present - cannot remember if its standard or modified

 

Comes with a box of spares including an adjustable actuator I was going to try and fit. 

 

If your interested let me know

 

Thanks

[Kilpot]

It probably would be cheaper but I would like to learn all the ins and out of what Im doing so when stuff breaks(which will always happen at some point) I know how to fix it and such. How much are you looking for though for the engine?

[magicmat]

It probably would be cheaper but I would like to learn all the ins and out of what Im doing so when stuff breaks(which will always happen at some point) I know how to fix it and such. How much are you looking for though for the engine?

 

Very true, i graduated from minis to building drift cars from scratch, fitting engines that shouldn't be in and converting autos to manuals 

 

Mini's taught me everything i know, and stripping them teaches the basics of building cars 

 

My engine has been sat alittle while since the rebuild so it wouldnt hurt to strip and inspect if you felt so inclined.

 

Im after a good price for the engine, Looking at the going rate. Havent got a set figure in mind just yet.

[Kilpot]

Yeah exactly, My mini was my first car and not a car I'll ever be selling so I think it would be very satisfying knowing that I put the engine together and Its a challenge i would like to tackle(until i try and start it up and it doesn't work haha)

 

Oh okay 

[Kilpot]

Hi guys, I have a question about the RTS clutch. Do you need to balance the clutch once its been built? Might be a stupid question but thought I would ask.

 

Thanks 

[Steve220]

Yes, along with the entire bottom end.

[jt19]

I balanced my RTS setup. It makes it much smoother engine.
The rods and crank etc have been balanced also.

[Kilpot]

Okay that's what I thought. I think I'll get a built bottom end as I don't think I have the skill to put together my own and make sure everything meshes together as it should hah. Are any of you guys not running a RTS clutch with no problems? I'm looking to have about 180 bhp

[mini13]

once they are in  they seem to be pretty fit and forget, (RTS's)

 

the main problem comes from the clutch springs not fitting together very well, but as long as you use the AP clutches ( which have the pressed steel ring) you should be fine as they are a cone shape, rather than having a step half way up.

 

its a good idea to lubricate the springs with a dry lubricant, I just coloured mine in with a pencil, and not that they will settle in a bit so dont panic too much when you first press the clutch and think damn thats hard!.

 

for 180 hp, just use two of the cheapest AP clutches you can find, they will almost certainly be 1275 ones.

[Kilpot]

Okay ill have a look what I can find. What is the main differences between say a 140hp motor and a 180hp motor? is it mainly just the clutch, head and higher boost(with better pistons that can take the higher boost)?

[jt19]

I used some chub lock lube. Basically graphite sprinkled on. It was as heavy, maybe heavier than my old pre verto with double grey diaphragm. But I've done about 70 miles and it's bedded in nicely.

[magicmat]

Yeah exactly, My mini was my first car and not a car I'll ever be selling so I think it would be very satisfying knowing that I put the engine together and Its a challenge i would like to tackle(until i try and start it up and it doesn't work haha)

 

Oh okay 

 

well it looks like moisture has got inside my engine so looks like its a build project and i'll be splitting for spares, i'll drop you a message with a link to the advert when i have written it

[mini13]

140 can be done on a pretty std build, for 180 your looking at needing a decent head and cam, and about 18-20 psi boost. The main difference will be needing to go to a straight cut box