9 replies to this topic

[cheesebadger]

Hi,

My car is currently completely stripped.

I have the steering rack on the bench.
Does anyone know how to check/inspect it without taking the whole thing apart?
If it is ok, I would like to refit it when I rebuild the rest of the car.
I know the other option is to replace it, but I think it is good to re use if suitable.

Cheers,
Rich

[cal844]

You could get it refurbished then paint it up, speak to your local garage

[nicklouse]

Mokespider did a strip down thread in here recently.

But I would just replace.

[cheesebadger]

Thanks for the replies guys.
I don't mind stripping it and rebuilding it myself, I have already got a copy of mokespider's guide.
But, I don't know if it needs a rebuild. I don't know how to check its condition with it on the bench? Any ideas?
Thanks again, Rich

[cal844]

Mokespider did a strip down thread in here recently.
But I would just replace.

Link to thread mentioned above

http://www.theminifo...-2#entry3433724

[andrewmini67]

I have just replaced mine, had an MOT advisory stating "play in steering rack". When removed I could quite easily move the rack from side to side with little or no force. The new one was solid, so if you can move it by hand easily then it may need replacing.

[Spider]

But, I don't know if it needs a rebuild. I don't know how to check its condition with it on the bench? Any ideas?
Thanks again, Rich

 

They are not always easy to bench test.

 

Three simple checks you can do though.

 

1) Pry back a boot and see if it has oil or grease in it. If it's greased, probably better to stop there and buy a new one, though it's only time to go on.

 

2) Centralise the Rack, doesn't need to be bang on just close, then rotate the pinion, feeling for play (radially and axially) in the pinion, Change directions of rotation and while changing direction, look at the inner part of the rack. If on the change of direction, you see it rotate more than about "0.020" (not the best way to express this) or about 3 - 4 degrees of rotation it should at the very least be shimmed on the Yoke. Refer part 9 of the guide.

 

3) Check for play in the Bush on the Passenger's side. This is not always easy to do. Best if you can clamp up the body of the rack in a vice between two scalloped timbers, wind the rack over to extend the inner nearly all the way out on the passenger's end and see if there's any radial play.

 

For the time they take to strip and rebuild, I would strip it down and rebuild it as a matter of course if it's already out.

 

Refill it it with 200 ml of SAE 90 Oil, even if you find it in serviceable condition, but has grease in it.

[cheesebadger]

Firstly, thank you for all the replies!

 

I decided yesterday to just go for it and strip the whole thing down anyway...

 

 

Answers to questions...

1) There was nothing, it was bone dry! This would suggest to me that it was oil, but leaked at some point and was never refilled... argh.

2) I didn't do this, and now it is in pieces. But you guide suggests that it should be fixable by re shimming the yoke.

3) This had a bit of play, but given the lack of replacement bushes available. I think I might make a phosphur bronze bush at work.

 

A few quick questions for Moke Spider as I have an older version of your guide, but for earlier racks. As I wasn't sure what I was going to find when I took mine apart.

1) When making the bronze bush should it be solid, i.e. no grooves to allow oil past?

2) The older guide I have says 300ml oil to refil, yet in your TMF post it says 200ml?

3) The locknuts were a pain to remove, and have markings from vice grips. I guess these are ok to refit...

 

 

4) The rack itself has dark marks on the metal. Almost as though it has got too hot. Is this expected? OK/worthwhile rebuilding?

(hopefully the photo shows what I mean)

 

 

As always, any help appreciated.

Cheers, Rich

 

 

[Spider]

Glad you've found some of that helpful Rich.

 

I think the 'older' guide that you are referring to is for the Australian Made Steering Racks. The one in the FAQ on this forum is for the MKII UK made Racks. For the MKII UK Racks, 200 ml of SAE 90 is the correct quantity and grade, but really, a little more isn't going to hurt anything, though don't put too much in or it'll pop a gaiter.

 

Bronze Bushes really are the way to go, though not straight forward, First check your Inner Rack is straight, if it is, all is well, sometimes they are not and this is not necessarily because anything has happened to it, but from manufacturing and heat treatment. Don't attempt to straighten it if it is bent, however, you'll have no choice other than to fit a replacement plastic bush. If you turn one up, make it about 3/4's the length of the original plastic one. I now ream the ID after fitting to the housing, I give them 0.003 - 0.004" interference fit in to the housing, and press them in place. I then ream them to give 0.001" running clearance. At this point, you need to fit the inner rack, and check that at the driver's end, it's pretty much central, if not, you'll need to gently bend the steel tube of the outer rack until you do get it central, otherwise it won;t move, it'll just be locked up. Usually, because of the way the housings are made, they are nearly always out of alignment and this gives some hint as to why they were made with soft bushes - to compensate for the poor alignment. I don't worry about cutting any slots or spirals in them for oil, it flows well enough from one side to the other around the outside (there's slots in the housing for this).

 

The Australian Racks that I've done this way really don't seem to wear out. One I did for  friend back in 1983 has done over 300 000 km in his Moke (and these eat steering racks because of the huge wheels they have), other than gaiters, he's not needed to touch it. The one in my wife's Moke I did back in 1984 and has done over 200 000 km.

 

If you are looking for a replacement plastic bush, Somerfords have them  http://www.somerford...roducts_id=5769

 

 

The locks nuts will be fine.

 

The dark colour on the rack is normal and in fact, I'd be alarmed if I didn't see that. It's from the heat treatment, which they only did to the teeth

[cheesebadger]

Great advice. Thanks.

 

I much prefer to strip, understand, rebuild (and improve where possible). It is half the enjoyment!

One final question. Is the interference fit enough, or do you reuse the self tapper similar to the bush?

 

Cheers again, Rich

 

P.S. I will post up a pic when I have finished...