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Any Tips On Fitting A Lcb Manifold?


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#1 megamini_jb

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 07:12 PM

Hey, as above really. Looking to fit a Maniflow LCB, link pipe and de cat on an SPi over the weekend

 

I have already loosened the six bolts, were actually pretty easy to get to with just the air filter off. 

 

Any tips really... also would it be easier dropping it down or bringing it up? I would have thought down? what else is going to needed to be undo along with the Lamba sensor

 

Cheers


Edited by megamini_jb, 09 March 2017 - 07:12 PM.


#2 dyshipfakta

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 08:03 PM

Undo the engine steadies to give you some wiggle room. I lifted mine up from under neath I seem to remember basically fitted the whole exhaust at once it wasn't too bad.

#3 megamini_jb

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 08:24 PM

Ok cheers, yep hoping to fit it all at once. Looks simple enough, but no doubt will run into problems! :P I thought my main problem was going to be the six bolts, but they were easy.

 

Just need to make sure I can get the mini high enough!



#4 Midas Mk1

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 08:51 PM

LCB's better coming in from the top rather than underneath, usually aligning the outer two branches first, the the middle one pops on. Can be quite fidly and tight, especially fitting the inlet nuts. Using the later type MPi manifold nuts helps with the floating washer, or using stepped washers if the inlet doesn't align perfect with the lcb branches. 



#5 1984mini25

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 10:27 PM

Easy enough. Assemble it dry off the car first without the clamps, as its easier to find out if it doesn't slide together easy off the car rather than being stuck under it. What I also tend to do is run a flappy wheel in a drill around the insides of any pipes that another slides into. As with most exhaust pipe work witch is rolled and then seam welded, it normally have excess weld on the inside of the pipes.

 

I've never bothered moving engine steady's and stuff, as the 2 half's do slide down the back of the engine with relative ease. Loosely fit the manifold onto the head, (I'd recommend using copper manifold nuts) slide on the clamp for the manifold to gearbox steady and then with some exhaust sealant (I tend to use copper grease) slide on the y section and go back and fully tighten up the manifold nuts.

 

Slide the rest of the system to get loosely and hung right under the car (some scissor jacks can be of help) before tightening up all the various clamps, so no one section or mount is taking all the weight or twisted etc.



#6 Cooperman

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 10:37 PM

It can be a lot easier if the studs in the head are replaced by 5/16" x 1.25" long hexagon head set screws. Apart from making it so much easier to fit initially, with bolts in place of studs the head can be removed without disturbing the exhaust when a head gasket needs changing.



#7 1984mini25

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Posted 09 March 2017 - 10:49 PM

It can be a lot easier if the studs in the head are replaced by 5/16" x 1.25" long hexagon head set screws. Apart from making it so much easier to fit initially, with bolts in place of studs the head can be removed without disturbing the exhaust when a head gasket needs changing.

 

One of the things I love about the standard cast manifold, is if your really lazy when doing a head gasket etc, you can get away with removing the down pipe clamp and 2 nuts to remove the carb, then lift the head clean off with the manifold attached.

 

And regardless of whether its the standard manifold or lcb manifold, the 2 centre nuts are always a pita to get at with the carb in place.



#8 Spider

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Posted 10 March 2017 - 07:51 AM

If you have a spare engine or at the very least, a spare head, trial fit them off car before trying to do so on car. I've had lots of Maniflows that have been poorly made and won't fit. Given that these are not the easiest to get in and out, best check before fitting.



#9 megamini_jb

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Posted 10 March 2017 - 08:47 AM

Ok cheers for all the advise chaps.

I do have a spare head, although this system is used anyway as my mate got the stage 2 for his birthday so I got the stage 1 off him for some beer tokens :D

Only ever done a mani once and that was on one of my first little 998s. Don't like faffing around with the SPi, no room :P

#10 megamini_jb

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Posted 10 March 2017 - 08:55 AM

As long as I can get the mini high enough then I may tackle it this afternoon.

#11 1984mini25

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Posted 10 March 2017 - 09:50 AM

As long as I can get the mini high enough then I may tackle it this afternoon.


Drive the front up on to ramps and jack the back up on axle stands.

Edited by 1984mini25, 10 March 2017 - 09:51 AM.


#12 whistler

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Posted 10 March 2017 - 10:04 AM

Easy enough. Assemble it dry off the car first without the clamps, as its easier to find out if it doesn't slide together easy off the car rather than being stuck under it. What I also tend to do is run a flappy wheel in a drill around the insides of any pipes that another slides into. As with most exhaust pipe work witch is rolled and then seam welded, it normally have excess weld on the inside of the pipes.

 

I've never bothered moving engine steady's and stuff, as the 2 half's do slide down the back of the engine with relative ease. Loosely fit the manifold onto the head, (I'd recommend using copper manifold nuts) slide on the clamp for the manifold to gearbox steady and then with some exhaust sealant (I tend to use copper grease) slide on the y section and go back and fully tighten up the manifold nuts.

 

Slide the rest of the system to get loosely and hung right under the car (some scissor jacks can be of help) before tightening up all the various clamps, so no one section or mount is taking all the weight or twisted etc.

I think you mean Brass manifold nuts. The extra long ones are very good. Even better is a change to hexagon bolts as Cooperman says.



#13 nicklouse

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Posted 10 March 2017 - 10:15 AM

as it has not been said. put the inner and outer part into the car first, not attached. then the center pipe. then lift and fit the outers and then the center.

 

easy. bolt up etc then fit the rest of the system from Y piece back. yes drop the rear section off the hangers.



#14 racingbob

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Posted 10 March 2017 - 02:01 PM

i assume you have already bought the LCB

 

as next time i will probably just get the single maniflow one

 

for something less than 80hp as those y pieces can be a pain later on

 

 

make sure the y piece goes in a fair way and hope you got the maniflow one or similar quality

 

those cheap £45 ones can be awful 



#15 megamini_jb

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Posted 10 March 2017 - 02:11 PM

Yep all 3 sections (LCB, Y pipe and link pipe) all from Maniflow direct as I remember when he original bought it a few years back.

Cannot wait to get it all on though as the Flexi on the standard system has been blowing for God knows how long now. Also I beleive the standard manifold has been repaired previously.

Got a twin box, side exit RC40 as it didn't want it to be too loud! I'll have to see what it's like with the de cat first, but may have to retain the cat!

Edited by megamini_jb, 10 March 2017 - 02:13 PM.





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