28 replies to this topic

[tiger99]

The stabiliser rod nut should be tight.

If all the roll pins are tight the gearchange will not work or be impossibly stiff. It is essential to have some free play in the pin between coupling and gearbox shaft. It should be tight in the coupling and loose in the shaft.

They came out if the factory like that. The design was somewhat unsatisfactory and those with machining facilities (ulness you can find one already bored to the correct diameter at both ends) could perhaps think about replacing the gearbox to change rod coupling with a small universal joint, tightly pinned to both shafts. You may have to check clearances in case it fouls something.

[jabos7]

Okay, if I follow correctly, then to have slight play inside where the pin goes through the shaft, and tight out on the sleeve to keep

it in place.   That small action would almost mimic a universal joint?   Probably best to not put anything inside the sleeve to tighten it up?

 

Thanks on the stabilizer rod--I finally found install directions where it should mount to the trans first, then to the shifter box and tightened

into place.  Made sense and easier on the fingers, I'm sure. 

[Spider]

The Pins should be tight in the sleeve and the rods.

 

The sleeve should be a bit 'floppy' on the rods.

 

As you've correctly deducted, this set up does work as a Universal Joint, hence why the pins are at 90⁰ to each other.

[jabos7]

Got it!   Thanks Moke!  Finally on the right track here, progress on all fronts!  

[1968andyf]

I used minispares quick release coupling msg13 really good fit and works well and no bashing at roll pins either

[no66]

The Pins should be tight in the sleeve and the rods.

 

The sleeve should be a bit 'floppy' on the rods.

 

As you've correctly deducted, this set up does work as a Universal Joint, hence why the pins are at 90⁰ to each other.

About to do my "loose" gear linkage.

My shafts rawl pin hole is elongated, do you think welding and re-drilling will work? (yes i know it would be best to get a new rod)  

Getting the collar off the gear box shaft. Its in reverse, is there engough cleance to tap the rawl pin out in this position? 

Thanks

[Spider]

 

The Pins should be tight in the sleeve and the rods.

 

The sleeve should be a bit 'floppy' on the rods.

 

As you've correctly deducted, this set up does work as a Universal Joint, hence why the pins are at 90⁰ to each other.

About to do my "loose" gear linkage.

My shafts rawl pin hole is elongated, do you think welding and re-drilling will work? (yes i know it would be best to get a new rod)  

Getting the collar off the gear box shaft. Its in reverse, is there engough cleance to tap the rawl pin out in this position? 

Thanks

 

 

I have welded and drilled them in the past, and while it will work in a pinch, it doesn't last very long. The couplings are very hard (or at least the originals were).

 

Yes, you can drive the Pin through far enough when it's in reverse. Keep in mind here, you don't need to get the pin right out, only out of the shaft, it can stay in the coupling and this will allow you to disconnect it from the gearbox.

[no66]

Thanks. 

Now i'm trying to get the alu collar off the actual shifer. Think this is a KAD or MS quick shifter. Have side bolts off, but it only moves up a couple of mm's. 

Trick? 

[Spider]

Ah, OK.

You can remove the stick that way, but the cap is on a Bayonet fitting, like some light bulbs. Just press it down and twist a little, it should then pop off and the gearsick will pull out - this is for the MS one, I'm not sure on the KAD type, might be similar ?

[no66]

It came off, was just suck due to grime etc.  

Got it open, will deff need new bushes and the is lots of slop / wear on the front bush. 
is that a pin on it way out or supposed to be like that? 

Was enough grease in there! 

Might put back a regular lever. 

 

[GraemeC]

That pin has walked out - that will be giving a lot of play is it can't be locating into the ali casting on the far side of the rod.

[no66]

All apart and cleaned out. Will get new bushes. 

Seee the the alu "eye" is a bit worn with a bit of play between the ball and eye.
Might mod this with a spherical insert. Work at a bearing distibutor and have access to bearings, spericals and rod ends.  
Maybe also use a seal on the front. 

Reading some other posts, is it a good idea to weld up the small hole on the bottom plate? Dirt and crap must get it here. ?

Edited by no66, 30 July 2020 - 01:54 PM.

[Spider]

All apart and cleaned out. Will get new bushes. 

Seee the the alu "eye" is a bit worn with a bit of play between the ball and eye.
Might mod this with a spherical insert. Work at a bearing distibutor and have access to bearings, spericals and rod ends.  
Maybe also use a seal on the front. 

Reading some other posts, is it a good idea to weld up the small hole on the bottom plate? Dirt and crap must get it here. ?

 

A mate of mine used to rebuild the Eye with one of the modern plastic type of spherical bearings with great success.

 

I have been welding up these holes and sealing that bottom plate to the shifter housing. I haven't really run any long enough to say if it's a good long term idea or not just yet. Over approx 10 000 km, and an inspection not long ago, it was showing promise, however, I am mindful that any water that might find it way in (the top isn't sealed) will be trapped.

[no66]

Will have a look, probably will just put it together with new bushes and look later at modding an eye. Have a friend with accsess to 5  diffent multi axis cnc :- ) Mount a spherical in the eye and just slide the gear lever into the sperical maybe.