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Flywheel Removal


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#1 myminipickup

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Posted 26 February 2017 - 01:46 PM

I know this has been asked a million and one times - but I am having a big problem getting the flywheel off my non-verto clutch engine, so any help would be appreciated:

 

 

I've done everything I can think of to remove it including heating it, cooling it, leaving it over night under tension, hitting hit, levering it, I've even tried some sort of jacking (but this just bent the plate I was jacking against)...

 

I've broken 2 pullers, as well as several grazed fingers and I now have old man pains in my back....

 

so before I buy another puller or turn to the angle grinder  - does anyone have any other advice on how to remove this now very annoying mechanical lump of metal???

 

Many thanks

 

 

 

 



#2 Northernpower

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Posted 26 February 2017 - 01:53 PM

You need to buy one of these from Guessworks.
http://www.guess-wor...lay.htm?id=501. It's never let me down.

#3 slidehammer

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Posted 26 February 2017 - 03:12 PM

You did have the crankshaft in the correct position before you started? You have to have the crankshaft correctly rotated so the c shaped washer is staying put in its slot and not trying to drop off the crank and catch on the flywheel locking it solid s you try to with draw it. One tip always lubricate the puller thread and cup washer before you start so all the force you apply is used to withdraw the flywheel and not just binding the thread up. Guessworks puller does look very good though



#4 charliefarlie37

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Posted 26 February 2017 - 03:52 PM

i had the same issues when removing my flywheel a year or so back, in the end i used some plumbers freeze spray and then heated straight after with a blowtorch, it eventually come off with a bang.

 as said above tho, make sure the crank is in the correct position



#5 Cooperman

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Posted 26 February 2017 - 04:24 PM

i had the same issues when removing my flywheel a year or so back, in the end i used some plumbers freeze spray and then heated straight after with a blowtorch, it eventually come off with a bang.
 as said above tho, make sure the crank is in the correct position




Exactly what I did on an MPI. It took 2 weeks of repeated heating, chilling, hitting, more heating, rapid cooling, freezing, etc. Finally it just 'popped' off.

Edited by Cooperman, 26 February 2017 - 04:26 PM.


#6 charliefarlie37

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Posted 26 February 2017 - 04:33 PM

stubborn sods aren't they

 I know some people say its easier with the engine fully out and using a impact gun on the puller,not much help tho if you want to do it in car.



#7 myminipickup

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Posted 26 February 2017 - 05:13 PM

Thanks for your all your advice - I need to buy a new puller as I broke both of the ones I had - perhaps I just just bite the bullet and go for the Guess Works one - but at about £120 (inc del) its a lot for just one use! 



#8 Northernpower

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Posted 26 February 2017 - 05:16 PM

If you're only going to use it once its still good value because you'll sell it second hand for good money no problem. The problem will be once you own it you won't want to part with it.

#9 charliefarlie37

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Posted 26 February 2017 - 05:21 PM

you could get one made if you have a small engineering works nearby?
I only used a puller from my local motor factors when I did my flywheel, yes I put a good load on it but I think it was the combination of rapid heating and cooling that worked it's wonder.

#10 cal844

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Posted 26 February 2017 - 06:24 PM

John hired the pullers out iirc

#11 MGMiniman

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Posted 26 February 2017 - 06:40 PM

I used to have this problem on my race engines with lightened steel flywheels.

I made a heavy duty puller using a piece of 1 inch thick plate. drilled on appropriate PCD with 3/8" holes for High tensile steel bolts. Puller bolt a 3/4" UNF Allen bolt again high tensile. The fine thread gives greater leverage ratio to apply the tension.

This bolt gives you an Allen key a foot long on to which you can put a piece of pipe for extra leverage.

A crank nose protector made of mild steel with a register to go in the flywheel bolt hole.

Wind it up as tight as you can go and then hit the puller bolt with a large copper face Thor hammer.

Put a piece of carpet on the floor under the housing as the flywheel can jump off!

Never failed

Recently re-drilled the plate to later Verto PCD to suit 10mm bolts.

As somebody said worth getting one made up by a local engineering works shouldn't take that long and doesn't need to be pretty and worth it's weight in gold. I reckon with the right equipment should take less than an hour to make.



#12 Spider

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Posted 27 February 2017 - 08:26 AM

You can easily 'beef up' most screw pullers to a hydraulic set up, which will get any flywheel off.

 

Obtain a short ram, like one of these   http://www.ebay.co.u...VUAAOSw0JpV5CAh

 

and a Pump    http://www.ebay.co.u...VQAAOSwv0tVN9dn

 

and use the ram between the screw puller and the crank.

 

You'll also end up with a useful bit of hydraulic kit



#13 tiger99

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Posted 27 February 2017 - 11:24 AM

Good idea! I also favour the thermal cycling under load to help it on its way. Alternate rapid freeze and heat cycles will help to induce creep, and it only needs a small amount of that to be loose. Even if each cycle moves it 1/100 of a thou it will get there in the end. Just keep tightening the puller before and after each heating or cooling.

Patience and perseverance will eventually win.

#14 jaysmini1983

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Posted 27 February 2017 - 03:59 PM

what pullers are you using. I tried with a generic cheap ebay special and it bent that(was in my tool box). Then I bought a mini puller and with my 2ft bar and pop, straight off.



#15 MiniBGT

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Posted 27 February 2017 - 04:01 PM

I assume that you have removed the flywheel key, I didn't once and wondered why it was not moving until a friend pointed out my mistake.






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