8 replies to this topic

[28hodge]

I have been looking at the drivers inner wing, its nasty!!

The flange where the outer wing attaches to the inner wing is pretty much wrecked. Also in front of the shock mount the inner wing is cracked from the bottom going up vertically about 1/3rd, As well as the shock mount being dust as well. So a couple of questions.

I have been looking at this, anybody used one and have good results? Most projects seem to have the inner wings chopped off just in front of the shock mounts so unless everyone is flip fronting their minis (Something there is no way in hell I am doing) I guess they must be using these.

http://minispares.co...ic/CZH3064.aspx

If not I have folded a repair section for the top of the inner wing so I could chop the rotten flange off and repair/patch back and then clean up and repair the cracked/split section in the inner wing.

Or can I replace the inner wing in full without needing to remove the engine and subframe. I know its preferable to remove them but I need to keep the car completely mobile so it isn't an option.

I am under no illusions, this will never be a show car of any description so as the majority of this is hidden as long as it is solid I am happy, I want to use this for some targa's and things like the Northumberland borders rally. So a little rough around the edges suits me fine.

[28hodge]

Edited by 28hodge, 10 February 2017 - 11:47 AM.

[sonikk4]

Mmm, have you got a budget you are working to?? If they are like that there then i can imagine the flitch must be crusty as well.

 

Now they can be repaired, the flitch you can buy a repair panel for but those two areas you cannot buy small sections etc. So either you can fabricate your own, the shock mount is a double skin or you will need to consider a full inner wing replacement.

 

I would have a real good look at the complete inner wing and then determine if its worth repairing or replacing.

[28hodge]

Flitch has been replaced as it was nasty, and had been repaired before where the repair panel had been welded over the top of the rusted original.

Is this not a inner wing repair section?
http://www.minispare...06.aspx|Back to

It extends back beyond the shock mount which needs a repair anyway and the strengthening plate replaced as I can stick a screwdriver straight through it.

[sonikk4]

Yup you could use that if you want, personally if i was going down that route i would use a Heritage panel rather than a pattern one.

 

The repair panels if bought as a pair leave a gap in the middle so would never meet up. So going on from there as i said its all repairable but having done a similar job on my clubby i should have just replaced the complete inner wing which i did on my lads car.

 

My mate made a repair section for the top rail and it came out quite well. So its down to you how you want to go about this to be honest. By the way the reinforcing plate which goes behind the inner wing on the shock mount is 0.9mm thick. Done a few of these now.

[tiger99]

The vertical crack is usually a sign of failed subframe mounts or a wrong combination of rubber and solid, or any use at all of poly. It starts as a crack, and when water gets in, it becomes what you see. I am sure you will be sorting all that out, with new subframe mounts, but please do use all rubber mounts (not recommended!) or all solid, with toeboard reinforcements, or it will crack again, surprisingly quickly, even with a new panel fitted.

 

Personally. I would check the entirety of the flitch panel very carefully for rot, and expect to probably have to change it completely, but there is nothing at all wrong with the proper repair panels if they include all that is needed, or if small local patches can deal with the rest. But it can get to the point where there is just too much welding and metal fabrication involved so the complete panel is cheapest. Put a value on your own time and you will see what I mean.

[28hodge]

You are 100% correct. Poly mounts have been on the car and the subframe floor mounts have cracked so will be welded back up and then a 3mm plate welded over the top to reinforce.

It dosent help that the front wings have been replaced at some point and were not that well done, you could push down on the front of the wing and see it flex and move away from the scuttle. Add to that the fact the car was being run on 13inch starmags with a rubber band for a tyre. It was horrible.

The flitch repair panel has been welded in the shock mounts forward need repairing.

It'll be going onto solid mounts and 10's. I'm not to worried about my time but take your point but think I am happy enough to buy the repair panel that is the front half of the inner wing and weld that in.

Thanks

[tiger99]

Sounds like a good plan!

The wing stiffness may be due to something very simple to fix like the little reinforcing piece that goes on the joint between A panel and wing at the wheel arch edge, and is frequently forgotten. The only time you don't use them is with Sport Pack arches where the welded in arch lip does the same job.

[Daz1968]

I have fitted both repair panels and full inner wings in the past and he full inner wing is far easier to do and makes lining the front end much easier, they are not that expensive compared to all the repair panels.