935 replies to this topic

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

They would do, but did I notice the motor has also flipped sides? Safest thing is to make a pointer out of masking tape to test what they do.

...I'll take that back, one of your other piccies had me thinking it was under the bonnet. So yes it will - if it's a RHD Mini motor. No reason why it should be though, they're available with all sorts of configurations of park and sweep, including adjustable. It's all down to the drive wheel.

We'll soon see. I'll take the wipers off when I test them (especially as they cost £40)

Well.... I'm surprised but the wipers park in the correct position. I don't understand Why, but happy days.

Edited by HUBBA.HUBBA, 16 August 2018 - 08:59 PM.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

It's alive!!
After swapping coil, leads dizzy cap, starter motor out from my mini. All it took was a bit of choke! On a weber?! Bazaar.

Edited by HUBBA.HUBBA, 17 August 2018 - 11:14 AM.

[panky]

Brilliant, sounds great

It's going to fly

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Went to put the dash back in and forgot I hadn't finished off the tacho bezel. I don't like spraying a brand new gauge but hay ho.

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Tried to double check my timing but the sodding gun isn't strobing. Don t know is they are repairable. There's an access hatch by the bulb but it's soldered to the pub! Pain in the arse!  20180819_162406_resized.jpg   40.96K   0 downloads
With the timing guessed and amythist set to zero advance, I couldn't resist a couple of test laps round the block. It flys! Would have done more laps if I had tightened the wheel nuts up fully. Nothing fell off ....Just.

Will get it filmed when I put the roll cage back in.

Edited by HUBBA.HUBBA, 19 August 2018 - 06:16 PM.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Forgot to say. Had an insurance quote from my current insurer and it was coming up at £400+. Sod that! Actually called Adrian flux and got them down to £160, not bad considering their first offering was £200 and I'll be driving what can only be described as a 120 hp,500kg, mobile open coffin.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Whilst getting ready to mot I had catastrophic failure of the new heater valve. Can anyone recommend a good quality one that won't go pop and spay half the garage.
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[panky]

The new  ones are total rubbish, maybe one of these would be better if you don't mind opening the bonnet to turn the heater on and off

 

https://www.ebay.co....5cAAOSwB-1Y2oAj

Edited by panky, 20 August 2018 - 10:58 AM.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Another thing I wonder if anyone can help with. As I tested my lights with the ignition turned off, I didnt realise that my dipped beam comes on when only the sides are on (switch is on first click - sides only). This only happens when the ignition is on. With the ignition off they work correctly. The only thing I can think of is a white ignition wire is touching the dipped supply somewhere?

 

just to add the main full beam doesn't operate when the switch is on side lights and ing on but the flasher does work

 

or does this just happen when the resistor is deleted

Edited by HUBBA.HUBBA, 20 August 2018 - 11:27 AM.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

The new  ones are total rubbish, maybe one of these would be better if you don't mind opening the bonnet to turn the heater on and off

 

https://www.ebay.co....5cAAOSwB-1Y2oAj

Looked at those, but I have just made the dash with a hole for the heater cable. If I don't use it it'll just p### me off. and I want to utilise it to keep engine temps down if required

[GraemeC]

I just fit the DSN take off and have the heater permanently on - as long as the blowers not running I can't tell the heater is on, the car doesn't get too hot.

If you do need a valve then I'd look at the inline ones - I believe the one for the FX4 taxi is almost identical to the OEM one from the later mini.

 

As for the headlights - that sounds like the DimDip circuit is still working, just without the resistor so the dip beam is full brightness rather than the dimmed down version that was intended.  I'm sure you need to do more than just delete the resistor to have it 'normal'.

[mtjm]

As for the headlights - that sounds like the DimDip circuit is still working, just without the resistor so the dip beam is full brightness rather than the dimmed down version that was intended.  I'm sure you need to do more than just delete the resistor to have it 'normal'.

 

You'll also get the same effect if you've fitted a relay for your headlights and still have the Dim-Dip wiring. The lower voltage from the Dim-Dip is enough to trigger the headlight relay, which then gives full power to the lights.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

I just took out the resistor and joined the wires. To just bypass it.

[GraemeC]

There's your issue then - the resistor is there to lower the voltage to the dip beam when the circuit is active (ie ignition and sidelights on).  If you've bypassed it then the circuit is doing the same thing, but the dip beams are getting the full 12V

 

Just removing your bypass might work - can't harm to try.

[Bat]

Hi,

You remove the resistor and bypass the relay.

There's plenty of posts about it on here.

Cheers 

[KTS]

 

The new  ones are total rubbish, maybe one of these would be better if you don't mind opening the bonnet to turn the heater on and off

 

https://www.ebay.co....5cAAOSwB-1Y2oAj

Looked at those, but I have just made the dash with a hole for the heater cable. If I don't use it it'll just p### me off. and I want to utilise it to keep engine temps down if required

 

 

..the one featured in the latest Binky episode looks neat - can't remember what they got it off (Ford possibly). if i understood it correctly collant flow through the head should be improved as it continuously flows through the heater take off regardless of whether the heater is on.  does mean another bit of pipework to plumb in though...