935 replies to this topic

[yeti21586]

That looks ace, ties in with the black bonnet vent.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Yes. Surprise surprise more wiring. Whilst tidying up the engine bay wiring it has be become apparent that there is no supply to the coil! Luckily I found a pink/white wire complete in my box of spare wires (aka 'the snake pit').
 20180730_213205_resized.jpg   96.87K   0 downloads

In the wiring diagram it shows a 'ballast resistor' (no.18),is that basically the 'resistive' pink and white wire?

 20180730_213156_resized.jpg   45.46K   0 downloads

Another thing I hope someone can help me on (Nick) is the spare terminal on the starter solenoid, should that have something on it like a white and yellow wire spurring off the pink/white on the + of the coil.
 20180730_212504_resized(1).jpg   61.64K   0 downloads  20180730_212440_resized(1).jpg   46.78K   0 downloads  20180730_212612_resized(1).jpg   70.92K   0 downloads

LASTLY GORE ALERT DON'T SCROLL DOWN IF YOUR SCREAMISH. Cut my arm open to the bone a couple of weeks ago and I'm just amazed on how the human body heals. Before and after picture below 2 and half weeks difference.
























 20180728_140005(1).jpg   41.17K   0 downloads

[Ethel]

Never mind the last picture, the first one made feel queasy enough.

 

Spot on with the yellow white. Ballasted ignition is pointless without it, it bypasses the ballast resistance when the solenoid operates  because spinning the starter causes the voltage to drop as much as the ballast.

[CAU998]

Another option is to bypass the ballast wire with conventional 12v supply. I just bought the correct rated wire and deleted the ballast wiring, it does mean you have to swap to a non-ballast coil though. But does mean you can get rid of the yellow/white wire too as it isn’t required.

Edited by CAU998, 31 July 2018 - 09:22 AM.

[DaveJH]

Wow, love it! Way more interesting reading than I was supposed to be doing for the last hour... 

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Right then..still wiring. Trying to puzzle out how wire up this tacho i got off ebay ages ago. The back is not what I'm used to. Reading a guide i found off minifinity it looks like these are the original wires that came with the tacho when new. Just don't understand where the other end of the pulse wire goes. It says," to disconnected wire" what ever that is! The black sheathed wire has been lable up by someone. Think it says 'DIST'.  20180731_160155_resized.jpg   53.49K   12 downloads  smiths_tacho_2(1).jpg   60.98K   13 downloads  20180731_161106_resized.jpg   30.6K   10 downloads
Any ideas anyone.

[nicklouse]

the pulse wire is your positive feed to the dizzy. you just have to run it all the way from a switched live to the rev counter and then back to the coil.

 

the resolution of the picture of the wiring is not great. but the black line dwg shows it.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

the pulse wire is your positive feed to the dizzy. you just have to run it all the way from a switched live to the rev counter and then back to the coil.

the resolution of the picture of the wiring is not great. but the black line dwg shows it.

That makes sense. Cheers. Is there anything special bout the wire? Does it have to be continuous or could I connect it to the existing wire.... thinking about it I hope it will work with my amethyst. Better call aldon.

Edited by HUBBA.HUBBA, 31 July 2018 - 04:06 PM.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Does anyone have any experience with the mini spares centre clocks conversion/replacement harness. Doesn't come with instructions and whilst some of the wires are obvious, some are not (well not to me). Seem to have a spare white wire with a flag spade female and I'm not sure if the wires to the fuel gauge are the right way.  20180731_162106_resized.jpg   70.01K   0 downloads  20180731_162118_resized.jpg   81.77K   0 downloads  20180731_162144_resized.jpg   56.2K   0 downloads
Any input much appreciated.

[Ethel]

Rev counter can share the coil terminal with the black n white to the dizzy. Can you not work out the white from the plug to the existing loom? Possibly also rev counter it's +12v ignition switched.

The voltage regulator is probably marked B for battery and I for instruments. It doesn't really matter which way round the gauges are wired.

[alex-95]

The 2nd post In this topic is the way I fitted mine. http://www.theminifo...o/#entry3517715

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Review counter can share the coil terminal with the black n white to the dizzy. Can you not work out the white from the plug to the existing loom? Possibly also rev counter it's +12v ignition switched.

The voltage regulator is probably marked B for battery and I for instruments. It doesn't really matter which way round the gauges are wired.

Thanks Ethel re the stabilser I reckon the white flag spade is on the B of the stabilser and the green goes to the temp gauge.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

The 2nd post In this topic is the way I fitted mine. http://www.theminifo...o/#entry3517715

Brilliant that really helps and has answered my question I was going to ask about oil pressure warning light (so above the ign light on the Right?) I like pictures with lables

Edited by HUBBA.HUBBA, 31 July 2018 - 06:20 PM.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Well, it transpires the conversion loom doesn't have a oil pressure warning light or wires. Which is s bit strange. Luckily after a bit of digging around I found some spares I can knock one up.
 20180731_195021_resized.jpg   18.17K   1 downloads

[alex-95]

I thought the same when I done mine not having the oil light. luckily like you I had spare, one for the oil and one for the heated rear screen, not much use for you though