935 replies to this topic

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

One thing I have noticed is there is play with the big ends even though it is torqued down. Which is a bit concerning or is there movement when it all is cold?

So should I expect any lateral movement?

[Steve220]

 

One thing I have noticed is there is play with the big ends even though it is torqued down. Which is a bit concerning or is there movement when it all is cold?

So should I expect any lateral movement?

 

 

How much have you got?

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Well got round to doing a bit more today. Plastigauged the bearings and all is good.
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So time to get the head on.

Firstly the bolts - ARP of course
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Clean up the threads as per ARP instructions and a blast of air to get any more bits out.
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Thought I'd measure the stroke whilst I was at it so I could work out the compression ratio later.

Studs in and BK450 on. Head on.


Ready for rockers. Will have to get cam and oil pump in first.

I had a few more pics to put one but they were over 2mb. (Stupid up loader!)

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Edited by HUBBA.HUBBA, 05 November 2017 - 05:46 PM.

[nicklouse]

mmmm i would get a bottom tap. (or a plug would be better that your taper) so you do actually clean the threads the whole way down.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

mmmm i would get a bottom tap. (or a plug would be better that your taper) so you do actually clean the threads the whole way down.

Did it as far as it would go. Think it went deeper than the threads on the studs. After the blast of air I did it again and nothing more came out.

Edited by HUBBA.HUBBA, 05 November 2017 - 05:53 PM.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Need a timing cover without breather. Please let me know if anyone has a decent one. Cheers.
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[HUBBA.HUBBA]

Aagggh! Just realised as I have used an SPI head, that it doesn't have a hole for the water temp sender. Anyone know what thread they are, as I'll need to tap a hole.

[Midas Mk1]

Temp sender in thermostat housing, easy fix :)

[Midas Mk1]

Or in the bypass hose take off on the head and use and spi sandwich plate if your running a heater :)

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

The timing cover arrived today. Should have taken a before pic. Gave it a blast in the cabinet and its come up really well ( until I ran out of media).
Can anyone tell if the crank seal is replaceable. Doesn't seem to want to come off and don't want to force it.
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[jonlad]

They come out with a bit of a tap, i used a big socket that was just smaller that the hole in the metal cover... and of course a BFH

 

Is it worth chancing it for the for the cost of a new one?

 

Great thread by the way, i enjoy your updates

Edited by jonlad, 10 November 2017 - 08:29 PM.

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

They come out with a bit of a tap, i used a big socket that was just smaller that the hole in the metal cover... and of course a BFH
 
Is it worth chancing it for the for the cost of a new one?
 
Great thread by the way, i enjoy your updates

Cheers dude

[Ethel]

Temp sensor is 5/8unf.

[panky]

There's an excellent resource on the MMOC forum for thread sizes. Obviously for Morris Minors but the engine section should be the same for most Minis. It does state that the temp sender thread is 5/8 UNF

 

http://www.mmoc.org....php?f=4&t=51709

 

Scroll down a bit for the table.

Edited by panky, 11 November 2017 - 01:16 PM.

[Drake]

enjoyed reading that from start to end - making a great job and look forward to the updates.

I have a 1986 AMC Cub that I restored a few years back, my fuel tank was same as yours inside (corrosion) but given mine is 31 year old I expected it !! Also my sender was mounted on the side not the top and is from a Van..

Charles Anderson obviously did a few updates to the chassis as quite a few differances to mine, if you have not sorted your handbrake out I can share how mine is, the exhaust on mine is standard Mini but I had to put an extention piece in due to the wheel base (about 4" from memory)

 

Anyways - i'll keep an eye on this...