22 replies to this topic

[Benskinner]

Hi all
The wife's mini (89mayfair) has excessive play in the clutch pedal before engaging the master cylinder
I was going to replace the clutch pedal but.......
I've decided that the best route for a longer lasting repair is to weld repair the Clevis pin hole then rebote the hole with a micro die grinder to the reauired size
I am safe in the knowledge that welded in material will be harder than the original pedal material so this seems a no brainer

My main questions before I begin are as follows

What is the exact diameter of a new clevis pin

Does anyone have a pedal to hand in order to give me a precise location for the new and improved clevis pin hole

And finally does anyone think this is a stupid idea (if so why)

My wife received the car as a gift in October so it's all a bit new to me,having said that I'm a fast learner and absolutely loving the simplicity of working on the car
My hanks on advance

Edited by Benskinner, 21 December 2016 - 09:55 PM.

[Ben_O]

I would replace the pedal as you will need to remove it to mend anyway.

 

At least with a new pedal, you will know it is right and will save you lots of trouble trying to get the repair exactly right.

[Benskinner]

Not that I'm trying to talk myself into it
But surely there's a case for a weld repair
I estimate 15-20 mins work tops on repair
And it'll be harder wearing and ultimately better than standard
Surely?

I'm not adverse to buying new
Looked on classiccarparts and minimania
Who are both out of stock of pedals
So I don't know where to buy one anyway

[Ben_O]

http://www.somerford...oducts_id=12890

[Benskinner]

Superb thank you

[nicklouse]

Most likely to be the yoke that goes over the pedal attachment that is to say the drive pin for the piston and/or the pin itself.

Pin size is 5/16" or 8mm

Edited by nicklouse, 21 December 2016 - 11:54 PM.

[Spider]

Most likely to be the yoke that goes over the pedal attachment that is to say the drive pin for the piston and/or the pin itself.

Pin size is 5/16" or 8mm

 

I was gunna say the same. I've have seen one pedal only that had some wear, but in all other cases, it's been the Clevis on the Master Cylinder and / or the Pin that's worn.

 

If you've the skills and it's the clevis that is worn, but the M/C is in otherwise good order, you could weld that up and remake the holes.

[Benskinner]

Ok I'm trying to get on with it
First problem
How do I remove the big pin that goes through clutch and brake pedal
I've removed the nut but it won't budge
Could the clutch pedal have rusted itself onto the pin

[Ben_O]

It might be worth dropping the pedal box out complete so you can get at the pin easier

[Spider]

If it's all in reasonable condition, you can get them apart in situ, however, it's a cow of a job and then putting back together is another matter altogether,,,,

 

As Ben_O suggests, while it is a few more nuts and bolts, it would be easier to remove the whole pedal box.

 

While it's out, give the Brake Pedal the once over and you'll be able to grease it all before putting it back together.

[Benskinner]

Ok guess the pedal box is coming out then

[Ethel]

There's a pear shaped tab on the opposite end to the nut that locates on a pin to stop the shaft turning. If a pedal has seized, that'd have to turn when the pedal turns. Using a big G clamp and a collection of open ended spanners as packing might get it moving in situ. Removal would allow you to service the lot properly, let shear bolt challenge begin!

[Sam14]

The weld will always be the weakest spot. I would recommend just getting a new clutch pedal as its saves doing it twice (If the weld breaks again)

[tiger99]

Please ignore certain advice above. 5/16" is NOT 8mm as far as things like clevis pins are concerned. You do not want a sloppy fit. It will be 5/16". You should weld, drill and ream to a close fit. In reality drilling carefully may be sufficiently close to finished size. No need for grinding except to clean up the weld.

A welded repair is perfectly acceptable here, but please, everyone, do not do the same on the brake pedal!

I am thinking, as others may be, that there will be wear on the holes in the fork end of the master cylinder push rod. More tricky to weld, a new or good used part from a worn out master cylinder may be more practicable. But if you do need to weld it, remove it from the master cylinder, put a snugly fitting piece of copper (nothing else except silver will do) in the fork and build up the metal by careful MIG or TIG welding from both sides. You will not need much weld. Drill right through. You will find that the copper leaves the inside nice and smooth. Saves a lot of work.

I would suggest using very good quality drills as the weld metal, if MIG, will be very hard.

[nicklouse]

Please ignore certain advice above. 5/16" is NOT 8mm as far as things like clevis pins are concerned. You do not want a sloppy fit. It will be 5/16".

LOL.

if 8mm fits you will have less slop.

And 8mm does fit. Get your micrometer out.