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Water Heated Inlet Manifold


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#16 whistler

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Posted 15 November 2016 - 03:47 PM

 

 

God there is some crap in this thread.
It is purely an economy device. It has nothing to do with condensation or icing on the carb.
The carb is thermally insulated from the manifold. That is why the spacers are made out of a plastic. So any heat that is put into the system is only going into the manifold.
The original cast iron manifolds were joined and do had their own hot spot. This does help with the fuel atomisation and the cast iron set up has been shown to be better than the water heated one for the first few minutes of running but the water heated is better from then on it can also help smooth out the tick over at idle.
But it has an effect on raw power output.
Connect or not is up to you but note that if you have a heater unit that you control the water flow for temperature control rather than one that uses air flow your heated manifold is unlikely to be doing much as the flow will be off.
The Metro had a metal pipe that ran across the back of the block to return the coolant back to the hoses which if it can be found keeps things tidy.

Thanks for that. Both my twin HS4 setup and my Weber 28/36 DCD setup used to ice up until I connected the heater pipes to the manifold. That was a 997 Cooper with a 544. If you Google Icing of carburetter then there's loads of info available.

Never sees any twin carb inlet with water heated set up.

Never had issues with my twin 1 1/2s or my DCD on my 1380 with 286. Did have the carb freeze up on the pick up one winter. Put me in a ditch. Playing in the snow in th Pennines is fun.

 

Sorry Nicklouse the twin HS4s didn't have a heated manifold which was part of the reason to go to the DCD. My freezing used to be on MN all night events in south/west wales and on Epynt. Yes, playing in snow is great fun, even more so in an artic!



#17 tiger99

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 09:23 PM

The spacer may help the airflow, as without it the mixture has to turn a tight corner immediately after the butterfly. But try without it. You will not break anything.

#18 nicklouse

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 11:12 PM

The spacer may help the airflow, as without it the mixture has to turn a tight corner immediately after the butterfly. But try without it. You will not break anything.


With out it you may find the throttle actuator does not function.

#19 nicklouse

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 11:16 PM

Yes, playing in snow is great fun, even more so in an artic!


Never got that far north when I lived in Sweden but had 11 good winters of fun. Got to love Nordic rubber and studs.

Tyres not my fetishs.

#20 whistler

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 10:09 AM

 

Yes, playing in snow is great fun, even more so in an artic!


Never got that far north when I lived in Sweden but had 11 good winters of fun. Got to love Nordic rubber and studs.

Tyres not my fetishs.

 

Artic, not arctic. Lol



#21 tiger99

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Posted 17 November 2016 - 05:19 PM

Nicklouse, that also is a very valid point. Not sure if it affects every combination of parts that was used.

I have thought of a third reason why they used an ali spacer. The studs, of which they had many in stock, already fitted to manifolds, were too long to dispense with the spacer when they removed the insulating one.

I expect that there are even more reasons. Possibly someone under a lot of pressure to get rid of the insulating spacer just copied the drawing and changed the material to avoid doing any real work? Happens...

I await other theories with considerable interest. One of them may be right!




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