Hi Ben
It's good to see the car off the spit and the repairs look really good.
John
Posted 16 December 2016 - 07:59 PM
Hi Ben
It's good to see the car off the spit and the repairs look really good.
John
Posted 16 December 2016 - 08:10 PM
Hi Ben
It's good to see the car off the spit and the repairs look really good.
John
I agree it's good to get it off.
It will be going back on next week though..
Ben
Posted 16 December 2016 - 10:07 PM
Posted 17 December 2016 - 02:29 PM
Your threads are a great resource for us amateurs beavering away at home - it's a real insight into how a professional goes about these repairs.
Have you thought about collating all these pictures and explanations into an ebook or similar? I'd pay to download it and I'd bet others would as well !
I would love to do it but just don't have the time i'm afraid
It's nice to know that these threads are a help to people and i'm always happy to answer questions about any of it if it helps.
Cheers
Ben
Posted 19 December 2016 - 03:27 PM
Posted 19 December 2016 - 06:46 PM
Edited by neal, 19 December 2016 - 07:29 PM.
Posted 19 December 2016 - 07:19 PM
Hi Ben
I'm interested to know how you repaired the door hinge stud and what you used
A couple of mine are shot so I need to do the same repair
Cheers Mark
Hi Mark.
I ground the sheared stud back flush to the hinge body and then ground back the weld on the other side.
The used a centre punch on the centre of the now flush stud and drilled it out using progressively bigger drills until the new stud was a tight fit.
I then wound a nut on the thread and put it into the now drilled hinge body and adjusted the nut until it was hard against the body of the hinge but the stud was 3mm or so down in the hinge body from the other side. This is important as you need enough room to get sufficient weld in.
If you have done it right and got the stud the correct length, you can no clamp the hinge up in the vice with one jaw on the hinge body and the other against the ends of the exposed studs to hold it tightly together. Then it's just a case of turn the welder up and fill the remainder of the hole with weld on top of the stud.
It's kinda hard to explain but if that's not clear enough, ill repair one of the old hinges to demonstrate and photograph the steps?
Cheers
Ben
Posted 19 December 2016 - 07:41 PM
continuing on with the back end, i made and welded in some wiring loom tags
you can see i also reinstated the arch to bulkhead stiffeners.
The the back panel could go on
this needed to go on
here
with that done, there was one last thing to do before it could go back on the spit
yup, get rid of the crappy webber box
I moved the wires etc out of the way
and after cutting the box out, laid the panel in to see what needed fabricating to fill the gaps
Posted 19 December 2016 - 07:47 PM
Unfortunately, whoever put the box in butchered the bulkhead so the bottom was toast
So i split the seams for the crossmember and removed the remains so i could drop in a new piece
And then made up a piece and welded that in
Now i had enough bulkhead to fit the panel too
Now i could weld it in
And ground up
Much better
Inside still needs finishing
Ill finish that in the morning and then put it back on the spit.
Welding remaining is Rear valance and closers, make up and fit a lower 1/4 panel behind the arch on the O/S, finish welding up the O/S flitch and fit the A panel.
Im hoping to finish up tomorrow
Cheers
Ben
Posted 19 December 2016 - 07:49 PM
Hi Ben
Great progress, good to see the back of the Webber box and the rear end of the Mini is looking good with all the fresh metal.
Keep up the good work.
John
Posted 19 December 2016 - 07:52 PM
Ben
Yet again what seemed to be a straightforward task (remove the Webber box) has turned into much more work, excellent job though.
John
Posted 19 December 2016 - 07:53 PM
I had a very crappy weber box too, and cut it out as well. Which didn't take much effort as it was very poorly attached to the bulkhead. I made up a patch panel with the egg shaped hole, however even though I'm happy that I did it sometimes I wish I redid the box just to have that little bit more room!
Posted 19 December 2016 - 08:02 PM
Cheers John
And Skoughi, This webber box was tack welded down the sides and glued along the bottom with clear bathroom sealant and then the bottom beat the hell out of to bend it down for an unknown reason.
I might have to redo some wiring too as the main loom is too chunky to pass through its new (and original) location where it has been mended and then bound up with a roll of tape
We will see when it comes to reassembly time.
Cheers
ben
Posted 19 December 2016 - 08:09 PM
Ben
The previous owner/owners seem to have a thing about using bathroom sealant on there repair/bodges.
John
Posted 19 December 2016 - 08:10 PM
Sounds pretty much the exact same as mine, but mine wasn't welded at all along the top! There was actually quite a large gap between the weber box and the original bulkhead. Maybe the same bloke did both jobs!
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