684 replies to this topic

[floormanager]

John, if it was mine I'd ditch the blue crimp terminals for some brass ones with the clear insulators.  They crimp much better (need a special tool but they are only a few quid) and look the part.  I have a hatred for blue / red crimped connectors.

[johnR]

I agree - those red/blue crimped connectors always seem to be connected with electrical botch jobs, as do scotchlok ones (not suggesting that's the case here!) I also solder the wire before crimping the brass/white metal connectors then re-heat them to make a soldered joint.

[floormanager]

Totally agree.  I was amazed even today at Minis by the Sea in Worthing.  Some really nice well restored minis with those blue and red crimps!  I might take my crimper and charge £1 a terminal!!

 

All the best,

Paul

[JXC Mini GT]

So after covering over 900 miles last week, the mini had developed a few extra rattles, on examination the exhaust rattle was down to a broken bobbin mount, a 90p replacement sorted that out, and the rattle under the bonnet was traced to a broken radiator mount, I have done a temporary fix until I can arrange to drop it back to Ben hopefully sometime in the near future,

 

[floormanager]

Bit like mine.  When I changed the engine, I found the remote back mount and the rear subframe front mount had both sheared.  Crap new rubber I suppose

[JXC Mini GT]

I purchased some bits from minispares week, and thought today would be a good day to fit them, I bit the bullet and purchased a new radiator as the previous one (off e-bay) had only lasted a short time it leaked and one fixing bracket had broken off, I also fitted new lower tie bar rods, and attempted to change the LH caliper and flexible brake hose. As with all the best laid plans things didnt go as expected, the LH tie bar nut wouldn't come off so the multi tool was used to remove the bolt, I removed the old radiator complete with bracket and engine mounting, I then removed the old Caliper and flex hose before realising that the Caliper I had purchased was incorrect, so I put a new flexible hose on and re installed the old caliper, before putting a new engine mounting on to the bracket and installing the new radiator. The new radiator wasn't sitting square with the bodywork so I made a couple of temporary brackets to hold it square and I am happier with the position. I also fitted a new adjustable stabiliser bar and took the opportunity to check the thermostat which to my suprise wasn't all there, I fitted a new thermostat, put all the hoses back on, bled the brakes before refilling with anti freeze. Another problem occurred when I went to start the car as I couln't pull the Choke out, so a new one has been ordered.

I have a new minispares quick shift gearlever to fit but I will leave that for another day.

Edited by JXC Mini GT, 22 October 2021 - 06:29 PM.

[floormanager]

Busy day.  Weird, I'm taking my rad out.  I had an original re-cored which I fitted when I fitted my engine.  Preparing for a trip to the IOW, I noticed the water was low in the rad.  A look underneath showed a leak from somewhere.  Hoped it was the bottom hose (more hope than expectation) changed the hose (horrible job on a Mk2 with hydo - destroyed my arm), water still leaking! Damn.  So started taking the rad out which on a Mk2 with two piece cowl can only be accomplished by removing the fan before removing the rad - lovely job.  Everything is off and loose, tomorrow jacking up the car, undoing the engine mount to get enough clearance to unbolt the fan - what a job.  Decided to modify the bottom cowl so the rad can be lifted out without all this fuss - just as well as I'll have to fit the re-cored rad back when I understand where it is leaking.  Fitting my old Coventry rad, so it will look okay until the other one is fitted.

 

The missing thermostat innards is a trick to improve water circulation.  You need the outer part (supposedly) to maintain circulation to cylinder 4.  You can buy a ring from minispares.

Paul

[Ben_O]

Strange about the thermostat.

I'm assuming Bill had done that for some reason as it definately had a complete stat on there when it went to him for the re-rebuild.

 

I'll ask him when I see him next.

 

Cheers

Ben 

[JXC Mini GT]

Strange about the thermostat.

I'm assuming Bill had done that for some reason as it definately had a complete stat on there when it went to him for the re-rebuild.

 

I'll ask him when I see him next.

 

Cheers

Ben 

Thanks Ben.

 

The car always took a while to warm up, so I had purchased a stat a while back, I have the back up manual electric fan should I encounter any hot days now the stat is fitted.

[floormanager]

http://www.minispare...|Back to search

[JXC Mini GT]

Busy day.  Weird, I'm taking my rad out.  I had an original re-cored which I fitted when I fitted my engine.  Preparing for a trip to the IOW, I noticed the water was low in the rad.  A look underneath showed a leak from somewhere.  Hoped it was the bottom hose (more hope than expectation) changed the hose (horrible job on a Mk2 with hydo - destroyed my arm), water still leaking! Damn.  So started taking the rad out which on a Mk2 with two piece cowl can only be accomplished by removing the fan before removing the rad - lovely job.  Everything is off and loose, tomorrow jacking up the car, undoing the engine mount to get enough clearance to unbolt the fan - what a job.  Decided to modify the bottom cowl so the rad can be lifted out without all this fuss - just as well as I'll have to fit the re-cored rad back when I understand where it is leaking.  Fitting my old Coventry rad, so it will look okay until the other one is fitted.

 

The missing thermostat innards is a trick to improve water circulation.  You need the outer part (supposedly) to maintain circulation to cylinder 4.  You can buy a ring from minispares.

Paul

I found it easier to remove the radiator and the one piece cowling by removing the engine mounting bolts and then tilting the engine to give clearance to remove the radiator form the car complete with cowling and bottom hose. I guessed the innards had been removed to improve circulation thanks Paul for confirming that.

[JXC Mini GT]

.

Edited by JXC Mini GT, 22 October 2021 - 08:25 PM.

[floormanager]

That's tomorrow's job, raise the engine, passenger side to get the clearance to remove the fan.  Out with the hacksaw on the bottom cowl to end this madness!

[floormanager]

That's tomorrow's job, raise the engine, passenger side to get the clearance to remove the fan.  Out with the hacksaw on the bottom cowl to end this madness!

Couple of cuts to the hands but it's done.  The passenger side engine mount had become unbonded, lucky I have a lot of spares.  Cowling cut so the rad can now be lifted out without dismantling half the car

[JXC Mini GT]

I had a similar problem with one of the engine mountings so I took the opportunity to install the upgraded minispares 21A1902 mounting when changing the rad.