684 replies to this topic

[MikeRotherham]

That work on the bonnet is really something else!

 

Just imagine the people who used to build these bodies multiple times a day. I know they would have had jigs and such like to line panels up but getting doors and bonnets to fit and by necessity at some speed. I have nothing but respect for them for their skill.

[Ben_O]

The weld on the underside of the bonnet is visable.
I have ground it flat but not flush as I don't want it to go to thin.
When I prep the bonnet, I shall scrape some stopper over the area so that once rubbed down and painted it won't be visable to the eye.

I have used this method on new bonnets in the past and have been able to successfully grind the back of the weld flush but the metal on new bonnets seems to thicker than the originals.

Cheers
Ben

[Ben_O]

I haven't done much on this the past few days due to inspecting and quoting a new arrival as well as a few other odds and ends.

 

I finished the bonnet repairs. Ended up having inner frame and outer skin repairs on the front edge

 

 

 

And then I have been prepping the car for primer

 

 

Cheers

Ben

[ClassicBRG]

Today, I started by welding on the n/s wing and A panel
 

 
Then I mocked up the grille again so that I can finalise the position of the slam panel
 

 

 

 

 
Then I welded that in place before repairing and refitting the brace
 

 

 
Next, I installed the bonnet lock and rubber buffers and finalised the position of the bonnet.
With the bonnet locked, the pin sits exactly in the middle of the lock which is great
 

 
And here are the gaps as they stand
 

 

 
I'm not happy with the gap on the n/s. It's still too wide at the back and there is nothing else I can do except slice and dice the bonnet.
 
A simple process that starts with cleaning back the paint
 

 
A splash of zinc to really show up the bad bit and a pencil cut line
 

 
And then after cutting it, I moved the edge to where I want it. The spanner is there because it happens to be the exact thickness of the gap at the front that I am aiming for
 

 
Then tack it to check the gap again
 

 
And then fully weld....slowly!
 

 
Ill finish it fully during prep.
 
And thats done
 

 
Just the headlamp panels to fit now and a few little bits and then I can prep it for paint
 
Cheers
Ben

Nice job on the bonnet!
That's a job I also need to do because the gap on my bonnet is too wide on one side.
But I am afraid the bonnet will warp after the weld job, and I might need a lot of filler to solve that..
Can you give me a little advice on that?

[Ben_O]

Today, I started by welding on the n/s wing and A panel



Then I mocked up the grille again so that I can finalise the position of the slam panel









Then I welded that in place before repairing and refitting the brace





Next, I installed the bonnet lock and rubber buffers and finalised the position of the bonnet.
With the bonnet locked, the pin sits exactly in the middle of the lock which is great



And here are the gaps as they stand





I'm not happy with the gap on the n/s. It's still too wide at the back and there is nothing else I can do except slice and dice the bonnet.

A simple process that starts with cleaning back the paint



A splash of zinc to really show up the bad bit and a pencil cut line



And then after cutting it, I moved the edge to where I want it. The spanner is there because it happens to be the exact thickness of the gap at the front that I am aiming for



Then tack it to check the gap again



And then fully weld....slowly!



Ill finish it fully during prep.

And thats done



Just the headlamp panels to fit now and a few little bits and then I can prep it for paint

Cheers
Ben

Nice job on the bonnet!
That's a job I also need to do because the gap on my bonnet is too wide on one side.
But I am afraid the bonnet will warp after the weld job, and I might need a lot of filler to solve that..
Can you give me a little advice on that?

Yeah sure.
The best advice I can give is to work slowly. Once you have sliced the bonnet and moved the edge to where you want it, it is very important that you get the edges of the join completely level to one another and then tack weld them together at intervals of around 3 inches.
You need to be very careful that you get a good tack first time so a very quick squeeze of the trigger is all you need. In the case of this bonnet, the gap to weld back up was fairly big at the back of the bonnet so you need to avoid too much heat. I achieve this by using a copper backing beneath the join. This makes life easier as well as acting like a heat sink.
Once tacked, gently grind the tacks flush so that you can double check everything is still flush and then proceed with welding up the join by placing tacks between your tacks and then repeat until all the gaps are filled. Cool the area as you go with either compressed air if available or a wet rag or just wait between tacks.
Only other advice particularly with clubman bonnets is to set the height on the buffers and install/adjust the bonnet catch before starting. I also placed shims (in my case spanners as they were just the right thickness) between the bonnet and wings to wedge it into a central position and keep it there.
Hope that helps

Cheers
Ben

[ClassicBRG]

Hi Ben,

Thanks a lot for your advice!
When temperature in my garage is a bit higher, I will try to perform this job on my bonnet.
The mistake I made in the restoration process of my front end is that I welded the front and the wings together before they were on the car.
Now there is not much possible to adjust the gaps.
At that time I didn't own a welder myself, so I went to a welder who performed the welding of the wings and the front for me.
Now I own a welder myself and I am trying to make all the gaps the best I can get them..

[Ben_O]

Time to go into the booth and up on the lorry stands for epoxy primer to be applied

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers

 

Ben

[Ben_O]

Epoxy is quite slow drying so I have only had enough time today to flat the inside and seal up.

I have made a start flatting the bulkhead but its still a little too soft.

 

[70K1100]

I've always had a preference to the round nose mini over the clubman, but after seeing your restoration I'm liking the clubman a whole lot more.   Great work.   I wish I had access to someone of your talents and passion for the minis where I live.

[Ben_O]

More prep and sealing up

 

 

 

And then I tried out a new product that was offered by my paint supplier. 

Well it's not a new product as such but it is a more affordable version of uPol Raptor and is tintable. My main question about it was what is the texture like?

I find Raptor to be too heavy and as I am trying to blend the new stonechip into the existing, that wasn't going to work.

Apparently this stuff is much finer.

 

I could have used my normal stone chip and ten topcoated it but it's very difficult to paint up under the wings with the car the right way up and in a fixed position.... very hard...

 

Anyway, I mixed it as suggested with some of the top coat and applied it

 

 

 

Not only has it saved me a step, its given better colour coverage than I could have done with the gun and it very closely matches the existing stonechip.

 

Its called Gravi Hel Armour skin for anyone interested.

 

Cheers

Ben

[Vinay-RS]

If only I was in the UK. My Mini would totally come to you for a full restoration of the paint and bodywork! Stunning work, Ben! 

[Ben_O]

Cheers Vinay. That's made my day

[Ben_O]

That's the inside painted

 

[JXC Mini GT]

Looking good Ben on the underside and inside, it's a pity that most of the inside will be hidden with carpet and trim.

[Ben_O]

Looking good Ben on the underside and inside, it's a pity that most of the inside will be hidden with carpet and trim.

cheers John.

Yeah, there is that but at least we will know its nice and clean underneath the trim