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Timing And Carb Setup


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#16 Awjunkies

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Posted 16 October 2016 - 08:49 PM

So I got the timing set, correct me if I'm wrong.

Removed and capped the vacuum, started the motor and used the carb to idle at 1k, took the reading from my timing light.

Set my light to timing at 8deg. Rotated the dizzy till the tab on the flywheel lined up in between the 5-10 to get it at 8deg.

Tightened down the dizzy and set the carb so my idle set at around 1k.

Took her for a drive and she seemed to do better, still sputtered on and off around 3k in 2nd and 3rd.

Adjusted the fuel nut and leaned it out a few turns and for a couple pulls it pulled strong without hesitation but after a few more passes it was back to the same problems. Doesn't really backfire and sputter it more hits a dead spot. I can feather the gas and try and get past the 2-3k zone and it wants to pull again. When the dead spot hits if I hold the gas pedal down it wants to die. In the dead spot it sounds like it's just sucking in air, hard to describe the sound I guess I can take a video.

Am I running rich? What else should I try?

Moke mentioned using the ABB needle, but when I looked it up my needle doesn't look the same. Mine has the DZ installed and it's a straight shank with a thin shoulder. The ABB has the big flat on it...

Any recommendations? Did I time it wrong?

#17 Spider

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Posted 16 October 2016 - 09:11 PM

Ah, didn't know you had a dial back timing light. As you set your timing light to 80, you'd normally then set the timing marks so they appeared at 1/4 (TDC), so, you're a little advanced.

 

But I doubt this is the issue you are having.

 

I'm also wondering if yours is actually an early car, ie, 1969 to 1972, at least as far as the engine goes.

 

The carb you have is a slightly early type that takes a fixed needle and that's the difference in the appearance of the needles that you have seen.

 

In the earlier 1275GTs, the Timing is actually 100 at 600 RPM (Vacuum Disconnected of course).

 

The Needle fitted to these cars was an AC and still on a Red Spring.

 

The DZ for the most part is richer than the AC - however, at that lower end, it is actually leaner.

 

Also, just to ask (and I think you did say), have you got oil in the damper of the Carb, that's under that black plastic screw on cap?



#18 Awjunkies

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Posted 16 October 2016 - 09:48 PM

Yes I have oil in the carb. Tried different variations all with pretty much same result.

So when setting my timing light to 8 or 10 or whatever degrees I'm supposed to match up the flywheel mark with the 1/4 tdc then. That would pretty much put me back to where it was originally I think.




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