10 replies to this topic

[JonnyAlpha]

Anyone got any guides and advice on stripping and rebuilding doors?

 

I have sussed out how to get glass out but removing the door furniture is baffling me to say the least?

I can see where the door handle is bolted on but it is attached to the door catch and I didn't want to start pulling it apart without knowing the correct was to go about it?

 

When painting the door do you normally completely strip it and if so howdo you avoid scratching the paint when re-assembling the damm thing?  

 

Also when re-assembling the door what do you use to seal around the Window Winder Mechanism - looks like window putty!! 

 

Thanks

[DomCr250]

unscrew the two screws holding the door lock extension on and the three screws holding the door opening lever on. Then undo the four big screws holding on the door lock. Move the lock out by about an inch and undo the two circlips that hold the above two rods on. Then pull the door lock and it will release from the door handle.

Scrape off the putty on the winder mech and door and save it - you can reuse it..

Strip everything off the door and do whatever repairs are needed, then spray it.

Refit the bare door to the shell and then put everything back on .... The door is much lighter to refit if it's bare.. You won't scratch anything if you take care, only bit worth worrying about is getting the glass back in as you can scratch the top of the frame if your are not careful.

[tiger99]

If you need more putty, consider strips of butyl rubber. It can be shaped just like putty and works better. Useful in several places on a car. Costs more of course, but in this case you get what you pay for.

[JonnyAlpha]

OK apart from buying butyl rubber what is the sealant? 

 

Would this stuff do or the Ever Build stuff?

 

Thanks 

[Compdoc]

This is the original stuff, used on many classic cars.

http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

[tiger99]

Just depends on whether you want a very stiff liquid or a nominal solid! Butyl rubber is one of those weird undefinables.

The other sealant, for holding the polythene sheet, is commonly replaced by builders mastic, evil stuff that remains sticky and messy for ever. But that is ok as you don't take the door card off very often. Adhesives that harden don't seem to stick to polythene.

[JonnyAlpha]

Just depends on whether you want a very stiff liquid or a nominal solid! Butyl rubber is one of those weird undefinables.

The other sealant, for holding the polythene sheet, is commonly replaced by builders mastic, evil stuff that remains sticky and messy for ever. But that is ok as you don't take the door card off very often. Adhesives that harden don't seem to stick to polythene.

 

So when I place a sheet of thick polythene over the door before the door card and furniture go on I should stick that with a household caulk gun sealant?

[tiger99]

Builders mastic used to come in a slightly larger cartridge which some household guns will take, others will not. But I was beginning to think that it is no longer made, because there is nothing like it in the Screwfix catalogue. It was simply called non-hardeing mastic, and was used to fill and seal things like expansion joints between sections of brick wall, and was also used around window frames before silicone became common. Builders used to buy crates of the stuff.

A search shows that Geocel 580 might be the right stuff, and is far cheaper than anything from Screwfix. £2.59 from Sealants and Tools.

Mastic does not set internally but skins over quite quickly so it is not sticky to the touch on the outside. Yet it sticks, somewhat weakly, to polythene, where almost nothing else will.

But I am thinking now that certain double sided adhesive tapes might do the job. Altogether less messy. You just need a strip across the top.

[JonnyAlpha]

Some fantastic advice in this thread - if I get time I may create a guide?

 

Anyway the door is stripped down apart from the rubber seal that runs around the inside of the door as a guide and seal for the window.

When the car was previously sprayed it this seal appears to have been left in and sprayed over!!!

 

I guess I should take it out and either clean or replace it?

 

Does it just pull out and push back in?

 

Also when painting the doors I guess the Hinges should be removed and done separately?

 

On the door I am re-skinning I have replaced the hinges and they come off OK, on the RH door they are solid!! 

[JonnyAlpha]

Door now stripped - thanks for all the help

[JonnyAlpha]

Many thanks for all the advice in this thread. I successfully rebuilt the doors yesterday (apart from the windows for which I have ordered some strips of Butyl Putty from EBay).

 

The only piece of advice I could add is to wrap the metal bars in cloth to avoid scratches and don't forget to re-attach the clip between the door handle and the door catch. The one held in place by the Operating Link Retainer Clip - Item 35 in this manual.

 

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 19 October 2016 - 12:43 PM.