
Scissor Lift
#1
Posted 19 September 2016 - 08:54 AM
http://www.automotec...e-scissor-lift/
Any reason why it won't suit a mini? Anyone else use something similar?
#2
Posted 19 September 2016 - 09:15 AM
#3
Posted 19 September 2016 - 09:24 AM
#4
Posted 19 September 2016 - 11:13 AM
looks like an expensive table to me!
i can see the advantages alright but for that kind of money i'd be looking more into a 2 post lift that will let you work under the car.
#5
Posted 19 September 2016 - 11:34 AM
To be honest thinking of my back more tha anything!
#6
Posted 19 September 2016 - 11:49 AM
Ah ok, hadn't thought of ride height being too low! Do you position the little pads on the subframe front and rear or are they simply on the floor pan? I know lifting a mini in one place with jack under floor pan is a no no but given that this is spreading the load I assume it isn't so much of an issue.
The mini has a roll cage, so I used the roll cage mount plates, but otherwise you could move the pads to go under the subframe.
#7
Posted 19 September 2016 - 12:17 PM
I've had one for a few years or so ...fantastic bit of kit.
Yes the mini is too low, but quite a few cars are too....just make up a set of long ramps out of scrap wood that are maybe 6 or 8 inches high and the length of the car ... I actually park the mini on the ramps on top of the lift when it's not in use.....other people just dig a shallow pit the same size as the lift in the floor and drop it in ...I did not fancy doing that hence the ramps.
Stability - it's very stable ...have a look on YouTube of people trying to pull a bigger car off.
Capacity - I've had my Land Cruiser on it ...and that is close to two tons.
The bolts that hold the arms on were very short ... so I upgraded them for about a tenner.
You lift the car on the subframes, the pads work well.
I also put a hydrulic hose connector on the ram ... you can then wheel the power unit away when you want.
Only downside - it's weight ...must be close to 500KG and it's a pig to move anywhere.
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And a view of where I lift from ..
[URL=http://s265.photobucket.com/user/domcr250/media/Mini%20Wheels/image2.jpeg.html]
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Edited by DomCr250, 19 September 2016 - 12:22 PM.
#8
Posted 19 September 2016 - 12:28 PM
i like this one, but it lifts using the sills
http://www.cjautoshe...o.uk/mini.shtml
sure i have seen someone on here using it though without any issues
#9
Posted 19 September 2016 - 01:17 PM
Thanks DomCr250, you've just convinced me to get one!! Looks like just what i need.
If you have to is it possible to move it on your own? Eg wheel out of the garage onto drive as you have in pic
#10
Posted 19 September 2016 - 02:55 PM
Good, I dont think you will be disappointed, and just like you my back suffers from scratching about on the floor.
Just treat it with the caution you would use with any other lifting device.
Yes, they have metal rollers on the front and you then 'hook' the power-pack into the other end and lift it so it will roll. However I found that uneven surfaces (garage to drive for instance) or even a small stone would stop it in it's tracks.
I did think about trying to make a better set of rollers for it, maybe using some heavy duty casters that are rated at 125Kg each ... but I never got round to it to be honest.
Mine came off fleebay, I think the company was based in South London and run by a Polish woman ....they delivered for free ...one massive bloke and a flatbed trailer dropped it off.
As I said, just take a good look at the bolts that secure the flat metal arms to the lift mech, to be they did not fully screw into the sliders underneath, but my local bolt company had 40mm longer ones in stock and that was it ... the quick release bit just means you can use the power-pack for other stuff easily too and also move it about without all the hydraulics and safety lockout attached ...the locout is just a very long bicycle brake cable and lever you use to pull the safety off when lowering it ...it's simple to raise it and then let it click into the lock-out, lowering just means lifting the ramp another couple of inches (to allow you to pull the safety release) and then drop it down with the pressure release valve.
Ohh, they dont come with hydraulic fluid ....find you local hydraulic factors and get some, most big towns have 1 or 2 of these places ... i think you need about 10L ...much cheaper than machine mart or anywhere else ...you can get the quick release couplings there too, just take in the banjo bolt for a match.
The other posters point regarding a 2 post lift is very true, but as well as needing massive roof height you also need a minimum of 8 inches of sold concrete under the posts as the loading's are massive when a car is swinging in the breeze!
#11
Posted 19 September 2016 - 09:12 PM
I like it!
#12
Posted 20 September 2016 - 01:26 AM
As far as lifting points, you can either use the subframe or if the body is solid, put the pads right where the inner fender meets the floor...plenty of strength in that joint if the metal is solid.
Edited by Magneto, 20 September 2016 - 01:32 AM.
#13
Posted 20 September 2016 - 07:51 PM
I've being eyeing up gantry cranes, seems like the best option if you what clear access underneath and mobility, just have to rig up a means of suspending the car. Even the smallest are a tad on the big side though.
#14
Posted 20 September 2016 - 10:00 PM
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