76 replies to this topic

[Spider]

Good work and great result.

[blacktulip]

Good work and great result.

Thanks a lot ☺ it took about 30 seconds. It went to 1/4 then started to drop off so I guessed it was filling the filter, so I had a peek in the canister and it was almost full. I gave it another Crank and went to 1/2 way. Can't say how relieved I am.

[Carlos W]

Well done

[Jordan18]

I'm having this problem as well, when the ignition is on the dials flicks to 7 bar, yet when the engine runs its flicks back to zero, replaced the sensor, the gauge was working before as I have changed the engine. We haven't primed the pump but there is oil there as I have a leak(I have the Dsn oil housing) we are fixing this tomorrow do you think we still need to prime the pump? We're going to try and find a replacement gauge and see if this is the problem.

Thanks,
Jordan

[Spider]

I'm having this problem as well, when the ignition is on the dials flicks to 7 bar, yet when the engine runs its flicks back to zero, replaced the sensor, the gauge was working before as I have changed the engine. We haven't primed the pump but there is oil there as I have a leak(I have the Dsn oil housing) we are fixing this tomorrow do you think we still need to prime the pump? We're going to try and find a replacement gauge and see if this is the problem.

Thanks,
Jordan

 

By the sounds of it, even if the pump did need priming, it's too late for that as "when the engine runs its flicks back to zero".

 

There's an issue with the gauge somewhere but does sound like you have Oil Pressure. Whether that was present before running the engine ????

 

Try a Mechanical gauge for test purposes, but does sound like an compatibility issue with the electric gauge or the sender's not getting a decent earth contact through it's thread to the block. Did you fit it with thread tape?

[nicklouse]

Sounds like poor wiring or incorrect sensors.

[Jordan18]

I'm having this problem as well, when the ignition is on the dials flicks to 7 bar, yet when the engine runs its flicks back to zero, replaced the sensor, the gauge was working before as I have changed the engine. We haven't primed the pump but there is oil there as I have a leak(I have the Dsn oil housing) we are fixing this tomorrow do you think we still need to prime the pump? We're going to try and find a replacement gauge and see if this is the problem.
Thanks,
Jordan

 
By the sounds of it, even if the pump did need priming, it's too late for that as "when the engine runs its flicks back to zero".
 
There's an issue with the gauge somewhere but does sound like you have Oil Pressure. Whether that was present before running the engine ????
 
Try a Mechanical gauge for test purposes, but does sound like an compatibility issue with the electric gauge or the sender's not getting a decent earth contact through it's thread to the block. Did you fit it with thread tape?

Thanks for the reply so quickly,

No I just screwed it in, My dad said he used a different sender earlier when I was at work the sender Is a larger one but because the dizzy couldn't sit in the correct position the timing was out due to clearance issues and we can't use is we bought the standard one today and this is what we are using now. How ever the larger sender was reading 2 bar then slowly dropping when we stopped cranking the engine over.

Jordan

[nicklouse]

So 1 you have the wrong sender. 2 you may have an oil issue but it could be a voltage issue.

So get correct sender or guage.

[Jordan18]

So 1 you have the wrong sender. 2 you may have an oil issue but it could be a voltage issue.

So get correct sender or guage.

I'm in the process of trying to fix the gauge issue, looking to get a remote line so I can use the correct sensor, but how would I fix the voltage?

[Spider]

 

 

I'm having this problem as well, when the ignition is on the dials flicks to 7 bar, yet when the engine runs its flicks back to zero, replaced the sensor, the gauge was working before as I have changed the engine. We haven't primed the pump but there is oil there as I have a leak(I have the Dsn oil housing) we are fixing this tomorrow do you think we still need to prime the pump? We're going to try and find a replacement gauge and see if this is the problem.
Thanks,
Jordan

 
By the sounds of it, even if the pump did need priming, it's too late for that as "when the engine runs its flicks back to zero".
 
There's an issue with the gauge somewhere but does sound like you have Oil Pressure. Whether that was present before running the engine ????
 
Try a Mechanical gauge for test purposes, but does sound like an compatibility issue with the electric gauge or the sender's not getting a decent earth contact through it's thread to the block. Did you fit it with thread tape?

Thanks for the reply so quickly,

No I just screwed it in, My dad said he used a different sender earlier when I was at work the sender Is a larger one but because the dizzy couldn't sit in the correct position the timing was out due to clearance issues and we can't use is we bought the standard one today and this is what we are using now. How ever the larger sender was reading 2 bar then slowly dropping when we stopped cranking the engine over.

Jordan

 

 

OK I think I got that.

 

Sounds like the Distributor Drive could be turned back (I'm guessing here) one tooth so the sender will clear the vacuum advance of the distributor?   Or does the sender just need an extension?

[Jordan18]

 

 

I'm having this problem as well, when the ignition is on the dials flicks to 7 bar, yet when the engine runs its flicks back to zero, replaced the sensor, the gauge was working before as I have changed the engine. We haven't primed the pump but there is oil there as I have a leak(I have the Dsn oil housing) we are fixing this tomorrow do you think we still need to prime the pump? We're going to try and find a replacement gauge and see if this is the problem.
Thanks,
Jordan

 
By the sounds of it, even if the pump did need priming, it's too late for that as "when the engine runs its flicks back to zero".
 
There's an issue with the gauge somewhere but does sound like you have Oil Pressure. Whether that was present before running the engine ????
 
Try a Mechanical gauge for test purposes, but does sound like an compatibility issue with the electric gauge or the sender's not getting a decent earth contact through it's thread to the block. Did you fit it with thread tape?

Thanks for the reply so quickly,

No I just screwed it in, My dad said he used a different sender earlier when I was at work the sender Is a larger one but because the dizzy couldn't sit in the correct position the timing was out due to clearance issues and we can't use is we bought the standard one today and this is what we are using now. How ever the larger sender was reading 2 bar then slowly dropping when we stopped cranking the engine over.

Jordan
 

 
OK I think I got that.
 
Sounds like the Distributor Drive could be turned back (I'm guessing here) one tooth so the sender will clear the vacuum advance of the distributor?   Or does the sender just need an extension?

The dizzy bit is correct and we think it's out as well as we read up on this on a different post, and was told we can just put the leads in different as long as it'll fire in the right sequence, what's the best way to take the drive out and make sure it goes in correctly?? We're trying to find an extension to get past this but no luck.

Edited by Jordan18, 12 September 2016 - 08:06 AM.

[Spider]

You need to remove the dissy, then if it's A+, just screw a long (like 4") 5/16" UNF Bolt in to the Dissy drive - Make a note of how it's orientated - then just pull it out, twist it a little, most likely clockwise for the problem you have, and re-fit it the same way.

 

Caution: If you let go of the bolt or are careless when re-fitting, you can drop it in to the gearbox. This is not something to be alarmed by, just aware of.

 

If it's an A engine, there's a sleeve head in place with a 1/4" UNF Screw (7/16" Socket is good here).

 

<EDIT: The long bolt - a good 'source' for these is one of the long bolts bolts in the engine mounting bracket under the radiator. >

Edited by Moke Spider, 12 September 2016 - 08:14 AM.

[Flit]

Hi folks,

 

I'm new on here and joined after struggling to get oil pressure from an engine on my workbench that's been sat two years with no oil in it.

 

After stripping and rebuilding I'd been employing all the usual pump priming methods (banjo hole filling and turning the Crankshaft anti-clockwise) these past few days but to no avail.

 

This thread helped me a lot, particularly the person that metioned it could take up to a minute of cranking to see pressure. Well it seems this is true, after about 50 seconds of no-compression cranking with a full battery suddenly the needle climbed quickly to 20psi on the starter alone. I was afraid of cranking for an entire minute with no oil pressure so had only let it turn for 30secs max previously....seems there's no way around it and needs must.

 

Well chuffed, now I can try firing it tonight - will it bounce off my workbench if it does spring to life?!!! (ratchet straps at the ready).

 

Cheers to everyone who contributed to solving this problem.

Edited by Flit, 07 February 2017 - 03:37 PM.

[carbon]

Flit,

 

If it's a freshly rebuilt motor then I wouldn't run it on the workbench, for lots of reasons.

 

Best reinstalled into the car, and then it can be run in properly by taking it out on the road.

[Flit]

Didn't get a chance to try it last night Carbon.

 

I just want to fire it for literally a few seconds to know I got the timing somewhere close and that fundamentally everything is in order before I drop it back in the Clubby.

 

The car isn't even close to being ready for the engine - absolute basket case!