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Torque For Wheel Bearing Nut, 8.4 Stage 1 Disk Brakes


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#1 Anchoright

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Posted 02 September 2016 - 10:26 PM

Hey does anyone know how tight I should torque the wheel bearing nut (that ties the wheel to the axle) for the front wheels that have aftermarket disk brakes on them? 

The torque specs that I can find only say 60 ft lbs for drum brakes. They don't mention disk. 



#2 robminibcy

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Posted 02 September 2016 - 10:31 PM

150 lbft and tighten till the split pin slot aligns. It is in the torque settings page but under cooper s drive shaft rather than just disc brake


Edited by robminibcy, 02 September 2016 - 10:32 PM.


#3 alex-95

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Posted 02 September 2016 - 10:33 PM

Depends on how many split pin holes you have in your cv joints. 

Where there are two split pin bores in the CV joint the hub nut must be torqued to 150 lbtft / 207 Nm, then tightened further to align the hole.

Where there is only one split pin bore the hub nut must be torqued to 193 lbft / 262 Nm, then tightened further to align the hole.



#4 Anchoright

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Posted 02 September 2016 - 10:44 PM

Thank you both! Wow that's a lot. It won't crush the bearings or something? 



#5 nicklouse

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Posted 02 September 2016 - 10:53 PM

Thank you both! Wow that's a lot. It won't crush the bearings or something?


Nope as there is a spacer between the races inner and outer. The outer is the hub the inner should be part of the matched bearings engraved with the same part ID numbers. Timken.

#6 Anchoright

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Posted 03 September 2016 - 12:26 AM

 

Thank you both! Wow that's a lot. It won't crush the bearings or something?


Nope as there is a spacer between the races inner and outer. The outer is the hub the inner should be part of the matched bearings engraved with the same part ID numbers. Timken.

 

 

Thanks! I want to get this right since I don't want wheels flying off on the track. 



#7 Swift_General

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Posted 03 September 2016 - 06:41 AM

Remember to use the correct method of tightning using a 'flat washer' as described in the Haynes manual. Also take the opportunity if you can to inspect everything for signs of wear. I recently had the CV joint out on a friends mini and after a good check over ended up ordering a load of new parts from minispares. In particular look for wear at the base of the drive flange where it contacts the CV joint and wear on the CV joint in the area of the split collar.

#8 Anchoright

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Posted 03 September 2016 - 02:18 PM

Remember to use the correct method of tightning using a 'flat washer' as described in the Haynes manual. Also take the opportunity if you can to inspect everything for signs of wear. I recently had the CV joint out on a friends mini and after a good check over ended up ordering a load of new parts from minispares. In particular look for wear at the base of the drive flange where it contacts the CV joint and wear on the CV joint in the area of the split collar.


Thanks!!

#9 Spider

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Posted 03 September 2016 - 08:57 PM

Maybe have a read here too;-

 

http://www.theminifo...s/#entry3404098

 

I'm not knocking the 'Flat Washer' method and it's probably not a bad idea to a point, but I've never done it. Given that it's tightened (torqued?) and then released to fit the Tapered Washer, any 'good' that came about from the initial torquing will be lost upon undoing it. If the fit and condition of the Split Tapered Washer is right in the first instance, then all will be 'sweet'.






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