28 replies to this topic

[s2ulk]

Hi all, reviving an old post but I’m in the same position as the OP and conscious that methods may have moved on.

So when receiving a new heritage subframe, and if galvanising is not an option, is the best thing to do to take it to a sandblaster, have all the original paint blasted off and then have it powder-coated? Or is there a different (and maybe cheaper) method that will give long lasting protection?

[s2ulk]

Received the heritage subframe and the paint finish is really poor. Was going to have it repainted anyway but not what I was expecting given the price vs Mini Spares alternatives. The lack of care taken with painting is hopefully not indicative of the care taken with the welding!

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[bpirie1000]

Personally I would say rub the bits down your not happy with and repaint. Everything is done to a budget and heritage are the same..

Like the colour coat. More prep work now.. better longer lasting finish.

People guided away from,powder coating is because stones and road grim can or could peirce the coating and then hold water up.

Forma Road car not really a big issue.. but forma rally mini in and out of the grave forest tracks deafo an issue..

Do what your budget allows but certainly keep an eye on things and wax always repels water..

May also add that powder coating certain bits makes them thicker and occasionally work needs to be done to take the powder coating off certain areas to allow subframe/radius arm fitting..

Edited by bpirie1000, 07 December 2024 - 04:21 PM.

[s2ulk]

Thanks that’s helpful. I have had a couple quotes for shot blasting, zinc primer and powder coat which are between £140-£160. Makes the total cost of a ‘future proof’ subframe quite expensive! Hence would be keen to hear if folk have used any alternative methods/paints to good effect.

[Bobbins]

My local guy does blast, zinc coat and powder coat for £75 ….

[GT Jimmy]

When restoring my mini I had my brand new subframe powder coated, looked lovely. 5 years later I'll be dropping the frame to either blast and repaint or worse replace.

So in hindsight I should have leathered it in hammerite

[s2ulk]

My local guy does blast, zinc coat and powder coat for £75 ….

Where is your local guy!? I’ve been quoted £160

[s2ulk]

When restoring my mini I had my brand new subframe powder coated, looked lovely. 5 years later I'll be dropping the frame to either blast and repaint or worse replace.

So in hindsight I should have leathered it in hammerite

Really divided opinions on whether powder coating is a good option. But seems that if zinc primer is applied well before the powder coat then general consensus is that it should last

[Bobbins]

NWE in Buckley, near Chester.

[coopertaz]

powder coating or chassis black both look good but you need to get some cavity wax in there easy to do before fitting otherwise will just rot out in 4 to 5 years, less if used in all weather. have used bilt hamber dynax on one for years and dinitrol on other both subframes haver been on over 6 years with no signs of grot, BUT not used in winter now.

[Bobbins]

powder coating or chassis black both look good but you need to get some cavity wax in there easy to do before fitting otherwise will just rot out in 4 to 5 years, less if used in all weather. have used bilt hamber dynax on one for years and dinitrol on other both subframes haver been on over 6 years with no signs of grot, BUT not used in winter now.

 

 

Spot on.  I use Dynax UB in areas that won't be seen, internal body sections etc, but I use Dynax UC which is pretty well clear in appearance on the underside exposed panel faces, subframes etc. The advantage of the UC is that being clear you can liberally spray plenty on to areas you'd generally just keep clean but with no added protection.

[GT Jimmy]

When restoring my mini I had my brand new subframe powder coated, looked lovely. 5 years later I'll be dropping the frame to either blast and repaint or worse replace.

So in hindsight I should have leathered it in hammerite

Really divided opinions on whether powder coating is a good option. But seems that if zinc primer is applied well before the powder coat then general consensus is that it should last

Get recommendations off other people. The company that did mine also did my wheels, they are still perfect. Good luck whichever route you choose

[s2ulk]

powder coating or chassis black both look good but you need to get some cavity wax in there easy to do before fitting otherwise will just rot out in 4 to 5 years, less if used in all weather. have used bilt hamber dynax on one for years and dinitrol on other both subframes haver been on over 6 years with no signs of grot, BUT not used in winter now.

Spot on. I use Dynax UB in areas that won't be seen, internal body sections etc, but I use Dynax UC which is pretty well clear in appearance on the underside exposed panel faces, subframes etc. The advantage of the UC is that being clear you can liberally spray plenty on to areas you'd generally just keep clean but with no added protection.

I’ve seen a few people refer to applying wax into the cavities. Does that mean spraying it inside the subframe through the various fixing holes?

[bpirie1000]

There are many areas in a rear subframe that add structural integrity. Behind the bit where cones sit, box section where the rear bolt frame mounts to body.

I usually stick a drinking straw in the hole, then spray wax in there then when you remove the straw, that is where the water will leak down and out of the frame..

Also make sure you spray grease or similar into the heel board area to coat that box section as they can be a nightmare if no lubrication.... future proof the car now as much as you can.