21 replies to this topic

[Jaycollins]

Hello, I have recently had the Lynx Ae R1 kit fited to my car with the 5pw 2003 R1 engine. The problem I have with the car is pulling away as unless you go very slow and slip the clutch at about 4000rpm it stalls quite violently! The clutch cable is on a hydraulic arm and I have a BARNETT CLUTCH COIL SPRING CONVERSION KIT on the car witch is supposed to make for a more controllable clutch but it's not! Has anybody else got an R1 in there car that can help me with there clutch design or any advice on what to check incase something is wrong with the set up?

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[Northernpower]

Why don't you discuss it with the installers of the conversion?

[Jaycollins]

I did mention it to them at the time however I was told by them that it's because is a bike clutch? And that you need to rev it lots and feather the clutch and accelerator together but that is no good for driving round town and pulling away with trafic at the same speed as them without looking like you can't drive as its a very loud car!

[Compdoc]

I suspect that this may be operating correctly. Lynx market this conversion for racing/track day use and any small capacity bike engine developing its maximum power at 10,000rpm will struggle a bit to get the weight of a car off the line. The video shown on the manufacturers website of a converted car at Silverstone shows it bogging down at the start, which suggests this is normal.

I would suggest, for peace of mind, taking it over to Wellingborough and letting someone from Lynx drive it and give their opinion. If this is normal, I'm sure that this is something that you will get used to, although it will always be a bit of a pain to drive in traffic.

[Mini Manannán]

This is the thing with bike engines.  Yes, they produce loads of horsepower, but it's way up in the rev range.  Then there's the lack of flywheel effect which makes them snatchy to get off the line.  If I was to go for a bike engine it'd be a big, lazy V-twin, something like an SV1000.

[R1mini]

I have driven R1minimagic Z Cars conversion and that had a perfect clutch, what does your clutch setup contain, master cylinder, slave cylinder etc?

 

David

[Carlos W]

This is the thing with bike engines.  Yes, they produce loads of horsepower, but it's way up in the rev range.  Then there's the lack of flywheel effect which makes them snatchy to get off the line.  If I was to go for a bike engine it'd be a big, lazy V-twin, something like an SV1000.

 

An SV1000 and lazy don't go in the same sentence Tim.

 

The torque they have is unreal

[RoryN]

I can pull away on tick over with my R1 5pw..

Its also converted to a hydraulic clutch pedal with the Barnetts uprated clutch cover.

[tiger99]

The fact is that bike engines are completely and utterly unsuited to cars. Completely wrong torque curve, high emissions, abysmal economy. In a car you need torque low down, and a diesel engine is the best for that. Actually bike engines are not best suited to bikes either, and have become what they are due to the sheer pose factor of apparently high power output from small engines.

Bike engine conversions are well hyped, and that is all it is, hype, as far as road use is concerned.

[R1mini]

Road use I wouldn't entertain it in a car, however in a bike they are amazing and perfectly suited

 

Any way back to the point of the thread, yes the clutch can be made much more user friendly

 

David

[Mini Manannán]

 

This is the thing with bike engines.  Yes, they produce loads of horsepower, but it's way up in the rev range.  Then there's the lack of flywheel effect which makes them snatchy to get off the line.  If I was to go for a bike engine it'd be a big, lazy V-twin, something like an SV1000.

 

An SV1000 and lazy don't go in the same sentence Tim.

 

The torque they have is unreal

 

 

I knows it Carl, superb for a spritely little mini.

[Jaycollins]

I can pull away on tick over with my R1 5pw..
Its also converted to a hydraulic clutch pedal with the Barnetts uprated clutch cover.

Would it be possible to have some pictures of your clutch set up please Rory? And what kit have you got fitted? As this makes me think there is something wrong with mine if you can pull away on Tickover with yours

Jay

[Jaycollins]

I have driven R1minimagic Z Cars conversion and that had a perfect clutch, what does your clutch setup contain, master cylinder, slave cylinder etc?
 
David

The clutch pedal goes to a master cylinder witch goes to a slave cylinder that pushed a rod over that the clutch cable is attached to that In turn then pulls the clutch however you can be trying to pull away slowly witch means slipping the clutch at 4000rpm to get it to move then it has a loud clunk and a big snatch of the clutch witch sounds horrible and doesn't always work witch is not ideal for road use but as you and Rory have said you have both driven them fine witch concerns me about mine! Could it be the clutch is in wrong? Or gearing? Or is it something to do with the map?

[R1mini]

Hello Jay,

I did have some pictures of Dales clutch setup on his Z cars mini but I can't find them anymore.

 

It was simple enough so I will describe it, it was a standard mini master at the front and a standard slave cylinder at the rear mounted horizontally and directly pushed what was the standard cable fitting now removed from the R1 clutch arm and replaced with a clevis pin setup.

 

In order not to push the bike clutch to far you either need a mini slave cylinder with an internal circlip to prevent over throw or a physical adjustable nut and bolt restricting the clutch throw

 

http://www.specialis...g?itok=4oQR6PCN

 

One thing I have noticed about the lynx ae conversion they seem to be very highly geared as standard much higher than the z cars and pro motive which would not help as the R1 already has a very tall 1st ratio.

 

If you have your sprocket teeth count I can work out what gearing you currently have

 

David​

[Jaycollins]

Hello Jay,
I did have some pictures of Dales clutch setup on his Z cars mini but I can't find them anymore.
 
It was simple enough so I will describe it, it was a standard mini master at the front and a standard slave cylinder at the rear mounted horizontally and directly pushed what was the standard cable fitting now removed from the R1 clutch arm and replaced with a clevis pin setup.
 
In order not to push the bike clutch to far you either need a mini slave cylinder with an internal circlip to prevent over throw or a physical adjustable nut and bolt restricting the clutch throw
 
http://www.specialis...g?itok=4oQR6PCN
 
One thing I have noticed about the lynx ae conversion they seem to be very highly geared as standard much higher than the z cars and pro motive which would not help as the R1 already has a very tall 1st ratio.
 
If you have your sprocket teeth count I can work out what gearing you currently have
 
David​

That is a very good way of getting rid of the cable as I have the same system as that however the slave cylinder on mine pushes a rod with a cable attached that to be honest is very ropey! I will change over to the system you have described to me! I will count the teeth on the sprocket and get you some more pictures this evening as the gearing does make sense to me, so if I have the wrong gearing it would be like trying to pedal away in 6th gear on a push bike rather than fist therefore resulting in my car stalling as it doesn't have the power to pull the car away unless you go slow. thank you for the help very appreciated!

Jay