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Wiring From High Beam?


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#1 Shaggy33

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Posted 07 August 2016 - 04:59 PM

Just sorting spot and fog light wiring ready for when lights arrive. P/o had front fogs only and all seemed to be wired in correctly via relay and fused live etc.
As I'm adding spots which I want to come on with high beam I went to splice blue and white wire coming out of stalk controls but noticed that there is already a splice in the wire the other side of multi connection plug which goes to fog light switch...? Now I'm confused as to why that is there as what had high beam wiring got to do with fog lights....?
Dumb question probably

#2 tiger99

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Posted 08 August 2016 - 07:24 AM

Remember that you must use a relay with a seperate fused feed for the spots, as the existing wiring and switchgear cannot handle the extra current. And yes it should be fed from the blue/white. The fogs, again with a relay and fuse, should be fed from the red sidelight circuit as there are circumstances where fogs, side and tail are legal and useful. If you only wanted them with dipped headlights it would be blue/red as you know.

I suspect that there is a simple explanation, the blue/red and blue/white have been crossed at some time. Which does the headlight flasher switch operate, main or dip?

#3 Shaggy33

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Posted 08 August 2016 - 09:32 AM

Thanks tiger99. I am using the diagram below as a guide and hope it's correct, So just to be clear then I need to make sure that I have feed from fog relay to switch and then on to relevant fog light fuse in existing fuse box.
Not sure what you mean about main or dip, I thought the blue/white wire was for main beam?
image_zpsykskj3t4.png

#4 tiger99

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Posted 08 August 2016 - 11:20 AM

I meant that if the wires had been crossed at some time, the flasher might be on dip instead of main beam, which would help to account for the discrepancy.

Your wiring diagram looks OK except that you may want to use seperate in line fuses for spots and fogs. Don't forget to add adittional earths, ideally seperate left and right, rather than trust one piece of wire. You can use less copper that way, a short wire from each light to its corresponding inner wing is adequate.

#5 Shaggy33

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Posted 08 August 2016 - 11:57 AM

I see. Yes I've put an earth on left and right hand side inner wings.

 

So rather than have fuse from the solenoid before splitting to each relay, have 2 fuses after split (one for each relay). Or do you mean a further two fuses  in the green and yellow lines (from the lights) as well as fuse from solenoid?

Sorry if I appear to be asking stupid questions, I don't know why but anything electrical frys my brain (and it's only small!)



#6 tiger99

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Posted 08 August 2016 - 04:37 PM

Your first interpretation is what I was suggesting but the second, with 4 individual fuses, is even better but probably overkill as you still have normal headlights in the event of a failure.

But fusing the headlights themselves like that, 4 individual fuses as per later Minis, is also good.

#7 Gil-galad

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Posted 05 September 2016 - 01:14 PM

I have a couple of issues with my driving light installation that I'm hoping can be solved by the sage advisors in these forums.

 

Firstly, I noticed that the diagram on the back of the wiring harness box shows the solenoid power connecting to pin 87 on the relay and the lights connecting to pin 30 (see attached photo of the diagram). This is flip-flopped from the directions from the lighting manufacturer (WIPAC) and the guidance provided previously in this thread. Is this diagram wrong, and what are the potential consequences of getting 30 and 87 wrong?

 

Secondly, I'd like to tap off the high beam wire but the wire colors leading to my right-front headlight don't seem to match previous descriptions or what is shown in wiring diagrams. I was hoping for a blue/white wire but none exists. See the attached photo for the wire colors leading to the headlight. My Mini is a Belgian built '77, could that be the root cause of the difference?

 

Guidance appreciated.

Attached Files



#8 Gil-galad

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Posted 07 September 2016 - 02:37 AM

Regarding the previous post, I figured it out on my own. Too many independent guides showed battery power to pin 30 so I assumed the diagram on the box was wrong and went with the majority. The high beam wire turned out to be the yellow/green...who'd have thought it?  Anyway, the lights are now done and fully operational so I'm happy.






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