21 replies to this topic

[WanaGo]

Hello,

 

I restored my 1979 Layland 1275GT clubman back in 2009 and its going great, and I am just in the process of fitting electric windows from A-Series Developments, which utilises the winding mechanism, but I have some problems.

 

I am not even at the stage of fitting the electric windows, but I have noticed the winder is really hard to wind on the drivers door, and has been for quite a long time. I put in new Minispares rubbers in the tracks, and I remember they were always stiff, but they are ridiculously stiff now. So much so when I took the glass out and the mechanism to clean it all up, and refit, the glass was so tight in the rubber tracks that it took my full body weight to push it down into place (without the mechanism in place).

Something isn't right.

Yes, the glass is in the track correctly.

No, the mechanism is not stiff/rusted/dirty etc. Can turn the cog by hand without the handle, and put it up and down.

For some reason, the glass in the track is really tight.

I am not sure what to do, as the rubbers were new in 2009, so it might be that they are deformed or swolen or something?

I also noticed that when the glass is in with the mechanism, the window does not go up perfectly square. 

Both the metal guide things which are on the bottom of the glass, are correctly fitted, one isn't half falling off or anything like that, so I am not sure what is causing it to not go up square. But its so stiff that maybe its forcing itself to go up on a slight angle as going up square is just too tight?

 

Does anyone have any suggestions please?

Should I just get new felt rubber seal things for in the doors and hope for the best, or is there something else that can be done to give the glass more clearance?

 

I partially took the rubber out from the handle end of the door, as the rubber looked a bit chewed. Could it be that the felt has just worn off and now the glass is sliding on the rubber, and its too much friction? But that doesnt explain why its tighter.

 

Some help would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

Edited by WanaGo, 12 July 2016 - 08:07 AM.

[maccers]

Not sure if it can be possible, but maybe the glass is too thick?

[Compdoc]

Sounds like the runner is grabbing one side and making the window twist, which aggravates the situation even more. I think I would be inclined to replace the rubbers and if you can find something smooth and the same thickness as the glass, you could run it around the window channel and see if it binds in any particular spot. If it binds try widening the track or apply some furniture polish (preferably one with silicone in it - like Mr Sheen, if that is still available) to the edge of the glass. The silicone makes the glass super slippery. Also check the back of the regulators and make sure the springs are on OK and the gearing meshing correctly. The gearing should stop one side rising before the other.

The other thing that might be worth checking is that the window regulators are in the correct doors. They will fit in the opposite door, but upside down. This loses the spring assistance of the regulator when winding UP. Although winding down would be very light so maybe a bit of a long shot, but I have seen it happen.

[midridge2]

Either spray WD40 on the rubbers or rub some candle wax on the glass.

[WanaGo]

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

@maccers - I dont see how this is possible. I do have 2 drivers door pieces of glass, so I tried the other one, and its exactly the same.

 

@Compdoc - how do you widen the track exactly? 

I thought about putting on some sort of dry lubricant, or silicon, but wasnt sure if that was really a fix, or if it would even make a difference, or make it worse...

Yes the regulators are perfectly fine, can move them by hand and all seems OK with them. Gears all seem find and they dont bind or anything like that. No rust, no crud, all nice and clean and has been freshly WD40'ed again. What you mentioned about them being on the wrong door though has me wondering, I will check that in the morning.

 

@midridge2 - Thanks, yep I will look at some sort of lubricant option if I cant figure out anything else. I just dont want to coat the rubbers with something which could potentially make it worse or inclined to pick up more crud over time.

 

If I cant get it running nicely with suggestions here, I could always get out the electric sander and try polishing a mm or so off the short side of the glass. No idea if that will even be possible, but if I can make the glass not as wide then that might help things. But surely that shouldnt be required. I dont believe the door has been damaged or anything in the past, but its hard to know. Maybe its slightly thinner in its track than ideal, or maybe the tolerance from factory was a bit on the tight side. Its been tight as long as I can remember, but how it is now is just silly.

 

Will check again in the AM and then try some suggestions.

 

Many thanks

[gazza82]

Either spray WD40 on the rubbers or rub some candle wax on the glass.

 

WD40 EATS rubber if used too much .. get a Silicon spray for the rubbers.

 

Personally I wish WD40 never existed .. there is no way that one fluid can do everything it is claimed to do .. I reserve my can for cleaning metal parts now. When empty it will never darken my garage again!

[mk1leg]

you would be better getting W&P electric kit from moss

http://www.moss-euro...tric window kit

[midridge2]

I should have said WD 40 water resistant  silicone spray.

[WanaGo]

you would be better getting W&P electric kit from moss

http://www.moss-euro...tric window kit

 

Why do you say that?

Its not the winder mechanism that is the problem here...

Its the channel, or rubbers causing the glass to be tight. No mechanism and the glass still doesnt slide up and down, so Moss's kit will be in the same boat.

Massive price difference too.

[WanaGo]

Solved.

 

Found the felt rubbers were not perfectly aligned around the door lock cuttout portion, which looked to be creating a pinch point there, so took the rubber out and trimmed off a doggy bit, and put it back in, making sure the rubber didnt sit in the rail which slopes up, where the cutout in the rubber goes. Put it back in, and it was slightly improved but still not anywhere near acceptable.

So I took the glass out, and picked up a spare piece of glass I had laying around for years which isnt in the best condition, and tested that. Same result, binds up. So I took out my oil stone and motor oil, and carefully shaved off about 1mm of glass from the front section of the 'bad' window. Only took a few minutes. Put it back in, and wow, what a difference.

Window now goes up and down 200% easier than before. No longer requiring 2 hands.

So I guess this door is slightly out of spec or something as it has always been tight, but maybe coupled with worn rubbers, its just gotten worse over the years.

Ill repeat the same process on my good piece of glass, and that should be job done.

 

Cheers

[mk1leg]

so all good......sorry thought you were on about the winders,,,,lol

[coopertaz]

i know this is an old post but just had same problem. traced to seals, from 2 suppliers the flocked area is rounded so window is too tight. from last supplier (phoenix) the flocked area is flat and the seal is softer, fitted this and window now free. the seal is harder to fit and you will need to gently run a flat screwdriver down it to push into channel, but cheaper than knacking the regulator as i did using cheaper seals.

[humph]

I have just had this with my 1969 Elf, and Minispares rubbers. Original windows were so tight they wouldn't move. Swapped for some later window glass, production date unknown, and the issue is resolved.  There is a noticeable difference in thickness between the two sets of windows. 

[tommy boy]

I had this prob to. Wanago has the answer. It works

[WanaGo]

i know this is an old post but just had same problem. traced to seals, from 2 suppliers the flocked area is rounded so window is too tight. from last supplier (phoenix) the flocked area is flat and the seal is softer, fitted this and window now free. the seal is harder to fit and you will need to gently run a flat screwdriver down it to push into channel, but cheaper than knacking the regulator as i did using cheaper seals.

 

Hey Coopertaz - old reply sorry, but is the flocked window rubbers you used which solved all your issues, these ones?

 

https://phoenixtrim....lined-326-p.asp

https://phoenixtrim....lined-327-p.asp