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Brake Servo, Yes Or No


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#1 Stu1961

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Posted 10 July 2016 - 10:43 PM

Evening all,

Now looking at the brake spec for my project (1293cc average spec, 71/2" discs, road use) I'm looking at the pro's and cons of fitting a brake servo. Whilst I understand that having one will not improve the performance of the brakes I do like the idea of it being a little easier on my right foot, just looking for opinions as to whether it is worth it.

Have also looked at getting a second hand servo along with master cylinder and pedal box, but I get the impression the servo is not an easy item to refurb even though there is a repair kit available for the 88 onward unit, have searched on here and other forums but anyone asking about refurbing the said servo gets little or no response so if I do fit one it will be a new one from Mini Spares. Would still be useful to know whether they can or cannot be refurbed though.

Many thanks in advance

Stuart

#2 absx2

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Posted 11 July 2016 - 08:40 AM

Pros are as you say, its easier on the foot and you can run a harder pad without the need to go to the gym.

Cons are they take up a lot of space in the engine bay making some jobs a pain and if using a remote servo you will have another hydraulic cylinder to fail.

 

If you have a mk4- car the late mini servo set up will be fine as it incorporates the master cylinder. Buy a second hand one and replace the master cylinder with a new item, not a rebuild kit as its just not worth it for the cost and the bores are always corroded on a second hand unit. The servo diaphragms are quite hardy so up to you but since they came out in 88 the only issues I have had have been with damaged and or perished vacuum pipes and connectors or dodgy non return valves.

The added benefit is the safety of a split circuit in the event of a hydraulic failure.

 

As for a used remote, don`t bother for the same reason of corrosion unless you are trying to referb a mk1-2 5.5" unit but even then I would just buy one from minispares.

If you use a remote on a later car you will have to decide on a singe circuit Cooper S tin master cylinder or servo the front brake only retaining the split circuit plastic master cylinder etc etc.

If going single circuit you will need a MS72 valve for the rear brakes.  

 

There are a few remote servo kits on ebay for under £100, made by Powertune and probably the same as supplied by MS.


Edited by absx2, 11 July 2016 - 08:44 AM.


#3 tiger99

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Posted 11 July 2016 - 03:52 PM

You can't legally convert later cars to single circuit. I don't know when the cutoff date was but it is quite far back. And, the insurance company is not going to like it.



#4 absx2

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Posted 11 July 2016 - 04:36 PM

Tiger99 is quite correct.

 

Dual line master cylinders were introduced in late 1977 so its fair to say there will be issues in the event of an insurance claim on a later car using a single circuit and I bet there is a hell of a lot of cars with this conversion. 



#5 Stu1961

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Posted 11 July 2016 - 09:53 PM

Thanks for the reply's Gents, Initially looked at the remote servo only to realize it was a single circuit system which to be honest put me off straight away regardless of the legalities, would much prefer the dual circuit system the car already has (82 Mayfair) with the addition of the 88 on servo added to it. absx2 point taken about replacing the master cylinder with a new item as opposed to refurbing a second hand one. Will be going for new a servo and master along with a second hand mount Bracket/assembly and pedal box.

#6 govig

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Posted 14 July 2016 - 06:34 PM

Can't you just servo the front circuit so its still two circuits?



#7 HUBBA.HUBBA

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Posted 14 July 2016 - 09:03 PM

Sod the servo and get this https://www.minispor...-7-5-discs.html excellent bite and performance. I've owned 5 minis some with servos and some without. I would put good pads and discs ahead of a servo all day long.

#8 Spider

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Posted 14 July 2016 - 09:17 PM

I'd suggest fitting it all up without a servo first up and give it a reasonable go without one, then if you find after a few weeks you find the pedal too much effort, then fit one.

 

A few guys who's missus also drive the car, they tend to fit them as a matter of course (though my missus doesn't have one in hers and she's never complained).

 

<Edit: Another possible way to work out if you really do want one is to find a mate who has a similar set up with a servo. Remove (and block off) the vacuum to the servo and try it, then refit and go again.

 

No doubt, you'll prefer the feel with the servo, but if I can suggest if you don't find the effort without objectionable, then don't fit it. >


Edited by Moke Spider, 14 July 2016 - 09:20 PM.


#9 Stu1961

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Posted 14 July 2016 - 09:56 PM

Sorry for the late reply to the last few posts everyone. Car will running standard 71/2" discs, with GWC1101 5/8"rear wheel cylinders and FAM7821 limiter. will give the no servo option a go first. As was mentioned previously the servo takes up a fair chunk of space but would be relatively easy to install later if I wanted it. Point noted about the discs and pads Hubba, what pads would be best with my standard discs, just looking for the best possible brake performance on a sensibly driven road car.

Cheers all, as always all comments appreciated.

#10 skoughi

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Posted 14 July 2016 - 10:06 PM

I set up my brakes on my Clubman to have no servo, I have a servo and pedal box to match but wanted to try the non servo route. I have 8.4" discs though, I followed advice and tried Mintex M1144 pads. Once they bedded in then I feel they're actually quite good and have managed to lock up my 175/13" tyre/wheel combo! I also have braided hoses but not sure quite how much they help matters, there's quite a good progressive pedal feel but I do have to press a little more compared to modern car brakes but I'm happy with how things are.



#11 HUBBA.HUBBA

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Posted 15 July 2016 - 08:01 AM

Sorry for the late reply to the last few posts everyone. Car will running standard 71/2" discs, with GWC1101 5/8"rear wheel cylinders and FAM7821 limiter. will give the no servo option a go first. As was mentioned previously the servo takes up a fair chunk of space but would be relatively easy to install later if I wanted it. Point noted about the discs and pads Hubba, what pads would be best with my standard discs, just looking for the best possible brake performance on a sensibly driven road car.

Cheers all, as always all comments appreciated.

I found the ones in that kit I put a link up for are great. They are Green stuff pads, work straight from cold.



#12 HUBBA.HUBBA

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Posted 15 July 2016 - 08:03 AM

I set up my brakes on my Clubman to have no servo, I have a servo and pedal box to match but wanted to try the non servo route. I have 8.4" discs though, I followed advice and tried Mintex M1144 pads. Once they bedded in then I feel they're actually quite good and have managed to lock up my 175/13" tyre/wheel combo! I also have braided hoses but not sure quite how much they help matters, there's quite a good progressive pedal feel but I do have to press a little more compared to modern car brakes but I'm happy with how things are.

Actually, yes definitely put braided hoses on, got goodridge on mine.



#13 absx2

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Posted 15 July 2016 - 09:45 AM

I found the ones in that kit I put a link up for are great. They are Green stuff pads, work straight from cold.

 

 

Sorry to say I found the EBC Green stuff pads had no bite from cold and took a bit of warming up despite what the glossy mag wrote.

The first time I used them was with vented 4 pots, I quickly replaced with AP Lockheed as the EBC were useless rolling down the drive.

I put the poor performance down to the OTT brake set up over cooling so the pads never got up to temp ( on the public highway )

 

I should have known better but the second time was on my rover cooper. same again low speed town driving was not confidence inspiring at all so back to AP.

 

Before i`m crucified by the EBC lovers I must say that the 90-0 braking and short circuit heavy use produced very good results with minimal fade BUT we should be honest with ourselves as to the use of the car in question. Super duper race pads ( no that green stuff is ) are for the track and not the town center.

 

The importance of the ability of the car to be able to stop suddenly from Cold, say from pulling out of a parking space and a child jumps out from nowhere should be the priority on a car used on a public highway.

The average speed of my 12 mile  commute is 30 mph on a GOOD day so cold brake feel and bite is a priority for me and Green stuff didn`t come up to the mark.

 

+1 for braided hoses as they are safer and give more pedal feel. If you wrap your hand tightly around a rubber flexi hose and get someone to press the brake pedal you will feel it swelling up in your hand.


Edited by absx2, 15 July 2016 - 09:47 AM.


#14 madaboutcherry

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Posted 15 July 2016 - 11:13 AM

I agree. I found greenstuff pads terrible driving in traffic.



#15 skoughi

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Posted 15 July 2016 - 12:35 PM

Mintex M1144 pads seem to give a good bite straight away, which is obviously what I was wanting for driving about my home town. They make a fair bit of dust though so they must be made of a "soft" compund, always seem to be cleaning the front wheels!






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