I'd prefer to buy the actual nut and know it's the correct strength. Linishing the spacer could be a solution, but I wouldn't blindly suggest an amount to remove. It's what I was leading towards by suggesting a test fitting sans spacer. Try a new nut first.
Wheel Bearing / Cv Joint Issue
Started by
Ann-Wilson
, Jul 09 2016 03:54 PM
Best Answer Spider , 15 July 2016 - 09:19 PM
Incidently, i clamped the bearing together in the hub with long large bolt with distance spacer ring in between..tight with air pistol...still movement...which indicates possibly incorrect width of spacer???? Or...?
It's quite likely the CV Collar being closed up too much to start with.
The CV Collar, is the Tapered Washer that has the split in it that's directly under the Nut. If this is closed up (and I've had them new like this), it won't locate properly on to the CV. When this happens, you can tighten the Nut until you're blue in the face and then some, but the Bearing Assy will still be loose on the shaft of the CV.
While it's in bits, trial fit the Collar on to the CV. There's a plain section at the end of the Thread, just before where it steps up to the splining. That's what the Collar has to sit on. As it is split and it fits in to a taper in the flange, it can close up and bite on to the CV before it gets to this plain section.
Also, feel the taper of the CV Collar and the taper of the Drive Flange. If you can feel any sharp 'bits' on the small end of the Collar and the Taper in the Drive Flange then it's likely they are worn. It doesn't take much! And it's all very fine detail.
Not any of the spares manufacturer's fault, but a crap design from day 1 in my opinion.
I've just done a couple of Hubs over the past couple of days. I have taken photos and will try to get around to a write up shortly.
<Edit: No help here but this is one area where the Drum Brake set up is so much better >
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60 replies to this topic
#32
MRA
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Posted 13 July 2016 - 12:29 AM
Did anyone mention the wear groove that can occur on the shank of the CV joint underneath the bearing inner race ? if your CV has wear at this point ot points then bin it !
#33
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Posted 13 July 2016 - 12:30 AM
I'd prefer to buy the actual nut and know it's the correct strength. Linishing the spacer could be a solution, but I wouldn't blindly suggest an amount to remove. It's what I was leading towards by suggesting a test fitting sans spacer. Try a new nut first.
Linishing is not the way to go, surface grinding is an option however I think it will be something else causeing the issues
#34
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Posted 13 July 2016 - 12:33 AM
You could try to lend a torque wrench to try to find how hard its torqued. I, especialy for the price of a cv joint, wouldnt risk it.
Unfortunately using a torque wrench to gauge the torque setting is like pi**ing in the wind, it won't lead to a good Engineering solution, it will just lead to a bad day.
It is all to do with internal friction of the mated parts.
#35
Ethel
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Posted 13 July 2016 - 12:38 AM
I had a diy job with production paper on a flat surface and an oil can in mind, probably not what you'd call linishing Martin.
#36
Ann-Wilson
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Posted 13 July 2016 - 11:47 AM
Did anyone mention the wear groove that can occur on the shank of the CV joint underneath the bearing inner race ? if your CV has wear at this point ot points then bin it !
need to check this....i know that previously one of the sides had a worn hub...the new bearing racers dropped almost in...very easily. therefore i bought two new hubs, new wheel bearings (although not original timkin ones..) from minispares...i am ordering the timkin ones now anyway......just wondering of this is the side where i had the worn hub...if so...could this have worn the cv joint where you mention?
#37
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Posted 13 July 2016 - 12:00 PM
Quite likely, one has to take the reaction of the other.
#38
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Posted 13 July 2016 - 12:32 PM
As Ethel says, it's a reaction wear issue, one part will usually wear the other away.
I would also change the cone washer and nut for new items and check as a minimum the contact faces of the driven flange, in my experience the CV joint is the first to go as it isn't as hard as the bearing, however don't be tempted to change just one or so part/s without a minimum check or better just change the whole assembly as it will often be throwing good money after bad, and result in a very expensive and time consuming issue.
Also the older hubs had a thinner section at the outside edge and this caused the outer bearing (outer bearing part of the outer race) to become loose if you hammered it in to corners, I don't remember the change point however it is easy to see as the later type have an almost parallel section right up to the seal area.
#39
Ann-Wilson
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Posted 13 July 2016 - 12:57 PM
so i just ordered wheel bearings timkin, new cv joint from my usual..minispares...sit back and wait five days...and try to build together some time next week...in meantime i guess i can whip the hub off again.....so many times i have done this now and change the dust caps again......or should i say again again....never been driven on and need changing every year...the rubber truly is of a shocking quality....i for one am prepared to pay a premium for good quality..if nothing else the work on these hubs has taught me this...so many false economies here. feeling slightly more confident that i can drive the car this summer☺
#40
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Posted 13 July 2016 - 02:30 PM
and you are not getting your TMF discount from minispares. 7.5%
http://www.theminifo...s-tmf-discount/
http://www.theminifo...s-tmf-discount/
#41
Ann-Wilson
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Posted 13 July 2016 - 06:18 PM
So the drive flange and discs are new...well i say new...they've not been driven on ever..i bought a 12 to 10 inch conversion kit...looks like i will have replaced every component on the hubs except for the steering arms.. Hopefully a good investment
#42
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Posted 14 July 2016 - 11:03 AM
All apart again i think i found a ridge..under the flange that i think butts up against the inside bearing...not sure if this is where MRA meant will send pictures later for any opinions. Very appreciative for on going help/advice:)
#43
Ann-Wilson
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Posted 14 July 2016 - 11:10 AM
Incidently, i clamped the bearing together in the hub with long large bolt with distance spacer ring in between..tight with air pistol...still movement...which indicates possibly incorrect width of spacer???? Or...?
#44
Ann-Wilson
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Posted 14 July 2016 - 11:27 AM
#45
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Posted 15 July 2016 - 12:39 PM
If the spacer came with a pair of genuine Timken bearings it is very unlikely to be wrong. I would suspect the machined ridge in the hub which locates the outer races.
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