
Wheel Bearing / Cv Joint Issue

Best Answer Spider , 15 July 2016 - 09:19 PM
Incidently, i clamped the bearing together in the hub with long large bolt with distance spacer ring in between..tight with air pistol...still movement...which indicates possibly incorrect width of spacer???? Or...?
It's quite likely the CV Collar being closed up too much to start with.
The CV Collar, is the Tapered Washer that has the split in it that's directly under the Nut. If this is closed up (and I've had them new like this), it won't locate properly on to the CV. When this happens, you can tighten the Nut until you're blue in the face and then some, but the Bearing Assy will still be loose on the shaft of the CV.
While it's in bits, trial fit the Collar on to the CV. There's a plain section at the end of the Thread, just before where it steps up to the splining. That's what the Collar has to sit on. As it is split and it fits in to a taper in the flange, it can close up and bite on to the CV before it gets to this plain section.
Also, feel the taper of the CV Collar and the taper of the Drive Flange. If you can feel any sharp 'bits' on the small end of the Collar and the Taper in the Drive Flange then it's likely they are worn. It doesn't take much! And it's all very fine detail.
Not any of the spares manufacturer's fault, but a crap design from day 1 in my opinion.
I've just done a couple of Hubs over the past couple of days. I have taken photos and will try to get around to a write up shortly.
<Edit: No help here but this is one area where the Drum Brake set up is so much better >
Go to the full post
#1
Posted 09 July 2016 - 03:54 PM
Any ideas why i might still have play?
Just for information this was a 10 inch wheel conversion on a mini Mayfair 1989
#2
Posted 09 July 2016 - 04:00 PM
you need to tighten the driveshaft nut with a plain washer in place of the split chamfered to the correct torque one then loosen and refit drive shaft chamfered washer and retighten.. good luck
#3
Posted 09 July 2016 - 04:03 PM
2: you dont know the actual torque setting.
For everyone who ever reads this post:
OVERTIGHTENING IS AS BAD AND DANGEROUS AS UNDERTIGHTENING
#4
Posted 09 July 2016 - 04:14 PM
#5
Posted 09 July 2016 - 05:21 PM
I doubt it. You don't actually squeeze the bearings. The spacer sets the running clearance, you just clamp it solidly to the inner races and CV joint. If anything gave way it would probably be the threads on the end of the CV. The correct torque is 203Nm.
#6
Posted 09 July 2016 - 05:56 PM
#7
Posted 09 July 2016 - 07:36 PM
You set a preload by torqueing it.
#8
Posted 09 July 2016 - 08:30 PM
Didn't know there was a revised figure. The same still applies though, the preload would be down to size of the spacer. The amount you can compress that will be minuscule. Similar bearings , without spacers, need to be little more than finger tight.
If you're not happy with the fit, strip it down and look for dirt or burring that'd stop any surfaces mating square and flush. The wheel or brake disc will give a better indication as they're further away from the bearing & will magnify any play.
#9
Posted 09 July 2016 - 11:07 PM

#10
Posted 11 July 2016 - 03:06 PM
Dusky, that is downright dangerous advice, You do NOT set a preload by torquing. The torque is ENTIRELY to allow the drive torque to be transmitted by clamping pressure to avoid spline fretting. It has NO noticeable effect on the bearing running clearance once the assembly is clamped firmly. The hardened bearing spacer, if used, or bearing inner races, are not capable of much elastic deformation, and the torque is mostly stretching the CV shaft.
Anyone who adjusts Mini hub bearings, front or rear, by adjusting the torque on the nut, is heading for a very nasty accident.
Frankly, this bearing problem has been discussed far too often on this forum, and the same nonsense seems to emerge every time. The fact is that if the preload is wrong, front or rear, either the bearings are sub-standard, which is extremely common now, or the hubs are worn internally, and no amount of fiddling about with the torques will help a all.
#11
Posted 11 July 2016 - 03:39 PM
Now there is someone driving around with an unknown torque on the hubs but you fail to notice that.
Edit: why do I even bother replying tot an essay if you can't even read my first comment.
Edited by Dusky, 11 July 2016 - 03:55 PM.
#12
Posted 11 July 2016 - 04:35 PM
#13
Posted 11 July 2016 - 04:39 PM
#14
Posted 11 July 2016 - 04:42 PM
#15
Posted 11 July 2016 - 07:56 PM
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users