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Wheel Bearing / Cv Joint Issue


Best Answer Spider , 15 July 2016 - 09:19 PM

Incidently, i clamped the bearing together in the hub with long large bolt with distance spacer ring in between..tight with air pistol...still movement...which indicates possibly incorrect width of spacer???? Or...?

 

It's quite likely the CV Collar being closed up too much to start with.

 

The CV Collar, is the Tapered Washer that has the split in it that's directly under the Nut. If this is closed up (and I've had them new like this), it won't locate properly on to the CV. When this happens, you can tighten the Nut until you're blue in the face and then some, but the Bearing Assy will still be loose on the shaft of the CV.

 

While it's in bits, trial fit the Collar on to the CV. There's a plain section at the end of the Thread, just before where it steps up to the splining. That's what the Collar has to sit on. As it is split and it fits in to a taper in the flange, it can close up and bite on to the CV before it gets to this plain section.

 

Also, feel the taper of the CV Collar and the taper of the Drive Flange. If you can feel any sharp 'bits' on the small end of the Collar and the Taper in the Drive Flange then it's likely they are worn. It doesn't take much! And it's all very fine detail.

 

Not any of the spares manufacturer's fault, but a crap design from day 1 in my opinion.

 

I've just done a couple of Hubs over the past couple of days. I have taken photos and will try to get around to a write up shortly.

 

<Edit: No help here but this is one area where the Drum Brake set up is so much better >

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#1 Ann-Wilson

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Posted 09 July 2016 - 03:54 PM

Have just tightened the wheel bearings as tightly as I could I am not quite sure of the actual torque setting but it is well over 210 newton meters. when putting the wheels back on I noticed that one of the wheels had some play in it. When wiggling the wheel laterally I can see some movement in the outside Cv the joint. The wheel bearings where from Mini spares but were not Timkin. The Hub was new as well.

Any ideas why i might still have play?

Just for information this was a 10 inch wheel conversion on a mini Mayfair 1989

#2 David128

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Posted 09 July 2016 - 04:00 PM

you need to tighten the driveshaft nut with a plain washer in place of the split chamfered to the correct torque one then loosen and refit drive shaft chamfered washer and retighten.. good luck



#3 Dusky

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Posted 09 July 2016 - 04:03 PM

2 problems: 1: not genuine bearings
2: you dont know the actual torque setting.

For everyone who ever reads this post:

OVERTIGHTENING IS AS BAD AND DANGEROUS AS UNDERTIGHTENING

#4 Ann-Wilson

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Posted 09 July 2016 - 04:14 PM

Did the washer technique...did not realise it was possible to over tighten the big castle nut as by definition you go to 300 then tighten until the next hole lines up..so would be tighter than 300. Could i have broken the bearing?

#5 Ethel

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Posted 09 July 2016 - 05:21 PM

I doubt it. You don't actually squeeze the bearings. The spacer sets the running clearance, you just clamp it solidly to the inner races and CV joint. If anything gave way it would probably be the threads on the end of the CV. The correct torque is 203Nm.



#6 Ann-Wilson

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Posted 09 July 2016 - 05:56 PM

Oh wow thanks...dont know where i got 300 from...so it must be tight enough..wonder why the play? Thread is still there?

#7 Dusky

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Posted 09 July 2016 - 07:36 PM

Depends on what cv joint you have. Later cv joints are 280 ish nm.
You set a preload by torqueing it.

#8 Ethel

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Posted 09 July 2016 - 08:30 PM

Didn't know there was a revised figure. The same still applies though, the preload would be down to  size of the spacer. The amount you can compress that will be minuscule. Similar bearings , without spacers, need to be little more than finger tight.

 

If you're not happy with the fit, strip it down and look for dirt or burring that'd stop any surfaces mating square and flush. The wheel or brake disc will give a better indication as they're further away from the bearing & will magnify any play.



#9 Ann-Wilson

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Posted 09 July 2016 - 11:07 PM

Thanks ethel. Will try this on monday...:-)

#10 tiger99

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Posted 11 July 2016 - 03:06 PM

Dusky, that is downright dangerous advice, You do NOT set a preload by torquing. The torque is ENTIRELY to allow the drive torque to be transmitted by clamping pressure to avoid spline fretting. It has NO noticeable effect on the bearing running clearance once the assembly is clamped firmly. The hardened bearing spacer, if used, or bearing inner races, are not capable of much elastic deformation, and the torque is mostly stretching the CV shaft.

 

Anyone who adjusts Mini hub bearings, front or rear, by adjusting the torque on the nut, is heading for a very nasty accident.

 

Frankly, this bearing problem has been discussed far too often on this forum, and the same nonsense seems to emerge every time. The fact is that if the preload is wrong, front or rear, either the bearings are sub-standard, which is extremely common now, or the hubs are worn internally, and no amount of fiddling about with the torques will help a all.



#11 Dusky

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Posted 11 July 2016 - 03:39 PM

Im not implying you can fix a bearing by torqueing it further. You should torque it to the spec in your workshop manual wich is different for different cv joints to have the right preload not under or overtorqueing.

Now there is someone driving around with an unknown torque on the hubs but you fail to notice that.

Edit: why do I even bother replying tot an essay if you can't even read my first comment.

Edited by Dusky, 11 July 2016 - 03:55 PM.


#12 Ann-Wilson

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Posted 11 July 2016 - 04:35 PM

So i am wondering, based on whats been said...does this mean i need a new cv outerjoint? Do i understand this correctly that once the cv shaft has been strectched.. It kind of goes past an elastic limit..? Secondly in what way will the hub wear...other than the bearing racers spinning etc?

#13 Ann-Wilson

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Posted 11 July 2016 - 04:39 PM

Ps not driving it yet..been off road for 9 years...its the end of a restoration..and well i thought this aspect of the rebuild i had covered..crumbs its frustrating..

#14 Ann-Wilson

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Posted 11 July 2016 - 04:42 PM

Actually just checked hub was new as well. Will try to take apart again tomorrow if get time

#15 Dusky

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Posted 11 July 2016 - 07:56 PM

You could try to lend a torque wrench to try to find how hard its torqued. I, especialy for the price of a cv joint, wouldnt risk it.




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