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Loose Gear Lever


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#1 Fordy

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Posted 18 June 2016 - 06:24 PM

My gear lever feels very loose both when in and out of gear, and also can be a pain to get into gear. The gears do not crunch when changing, just sometimes seem to be difficult to select.

It is a rod change type 1985 Mayfair, I have only recently purchased it, so just wondered if anyone could help me diagnose the issue. I have attached the links to youtube (due to upload size being too small) of videos which may help. Showing under the car where there seems to be a lot of movement.

 

https://youtu.be/8xT-pIqAzoY

https://youtu.be/p0YmzuXWTv4

https://youtu.be/BOa6LFbG1mM

https://youtu.be/U0V_0ir48Lo

https://youtu.be/s9aVmCxsR5I

https://youtu.be/H-VsDP0hrwI

https://youtu.be/wuqSEf-_YGw

 

Any ideas?



#2 nicklouse

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Posted 18 June 2016 - 08:48 PM

No idea what the hell those videos are.

But the roll pins in the connection to the gearbox often wear. As does the plastic cup at the area the gearstick acts on the moving rod.

#3 tiger99

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Posted 18 June 2016 - 08:52 PM

Well I have never watched the action underneath so it may not be abnormal, but it does seem to me that the lever housing is moving more than I would have expected. Also it may be an illusion, but the gear change rod may be slightly bent.

The housing is stabilised by the upper rod, which bolts into it tightly. The front end of the upper rod has a metalastik bush and is bolted to the gearbox casing. I suspect that the rear end of the rod may be loose and the bush at the front may need to be renewed. Actually the bush is in the gearbox casing and the fork end of the rod has a through bolt. It is not unknown for one side of he fork to break.

There is, as always, some slop in the coupling to the gearbox change shaft, which may need new roll pins (cheap) or maybe more. If you undo that, it is a good time to renew the oil seal, with the mod kit including ali bush, which has nothing to do with your perceived problem but may save having to take it apart again later when it leaks oil. Again, cheap. There is also another coupling at the other end.

But remove the flexible gaiter from inside the car, undo the locking device and have a look at the lever pivot ball etc. You can actually take the whole thing out by disconnecting both rods at the gearbox end and unbolt in the several rubber mounts (maybe some have broken?). It is a lot more pleasant to have the thing on the bench, preferably cleaned, before deciding which parts to renew.

#4 MatthewsDad

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Posted 18 June 2016 - 10:21 PM

+1 for nicklouse's comments, easy enough to check the two roll pins at the linkage with the transmission and see whether they're loose, but you will need to raise the car on a ramp or axle stands to get a decent view of the pins.  If they are loose this may account for the difficulty you have in engaging gear.  Worth sorting now as you could be left stranded without one or more gears, whether its the pins or the lever housing.  A cable tie around the linkage sleeve and hooked over the upper rod can help to pull the gear rod back into position as a short term roadside repair if you do lose a gear .



#5 Spider

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 03:27 AM

Have a read of this recent thread

 

http://www.theminifo...-change-rattle/



#6 Fordy

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 10:34 AM

I have read through all the replies, I have firstly gone for the look under the gaiter as suggested. I have uploaded another video, it seems to be very loose under here again as well. Guessing this isnt supposed to be this loose, going to inspect further.

 

https://youtu.be/hHjFcO_GVtw



#7 Jordie

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 10:44 AM

Remove the metal collar on the gearstick bottom. Its the metal collar which sits around the gearstick pivot. Its a push and twist. Mine had worn and wasnt tight and the gearstick gave me lots of trouble and would lift too far out when getting reverse.

Once this is undone you can remove the gearstick. You will be able to photo the ball etc for wear. The gearstick simply lifts out when the colar above is removed.

#8 Fordy

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 10:53 AM

Cheers I'll give that ago now and get some photos uploaded, guessing I'll be able to see the wear. Was you having similar issues? And did replacing the worn parts cure it?

#9 Jordie

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 11:05 AM

Mine was just difficult to select gears. The collar thing had worn so it wasnt tight fit and the lever would lift slightly out of the mechanism inside. This may not be your problem but worth checking.

I ended up welding the collar and grinding back as i couldnt find one without buying a complete 2nd hand gearstick.

Worth replacing the 2 rubber bobbins which hold the linkage to the floor aswell. They are the 2 nuts just behind the hole in the floor where the gearstick comes up. They can be pain to undo sometimes.

#10 Fordy

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 11:29 AM

Yeah I have the same issue, plus it is also very loose in and out of gear. 

 

I have cleaned up the lever and can't see any major signs of damage, the collar however does look a little mis-shaped so will address that.

 

Should the linkage housing be full of grease, at the minute mine only seems to be coated?



#11 Jordie

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 11:37 AM

Doesnt need to be full but should be grease on the moving parts etc

#12 Fordy

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 11:43 AM

Okay I'll clean out the old and replace with some fresh grease.

When putting back together should the 2 bolts on the side of the collar be done up tight or just to retain the collar? Are they to reduce movement or just retain as previously said.

#13 Jordie

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 12:01 PM

Normally its 2 pins on the alloy housing which just retain the collar. Push and twist to fit.

#14 Fordy

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 01:05 PM

On mine other has two bolts instead of pins.... but still requires the push and twist fit

#15 Fordy

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 03:57 PM

After further investigation it looks like the C-pin to the left is a tad loose, this can be seen in the link below.

 

https://youtu.be/hBoZhlPUc6c

 

Will it be a simple case of exchanging the C-pin itself, or will I most likely have to replace other parts as well? 

 

Also I noticed that on the linkage housing the pins in which the collar pushes and twists to lock in place are now bolts, is this a modification or did they change to this design? I can't see to find any online with bolts in? And the taped hole on the side of the housing, is that for greasing point or another use?

 

It seems that the bolt (used to be a pin) which sits inside the recess on the gear lever no longer maintains it's position due to a damage thread on the housing. Mening that once it works itself loose enough the gear lever can spin a full 360 degree. So currently looking at alternative ways about the issue. 


Edited by Fordy, 19 June 2016 - 04:09 PM.





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