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#1 Readers14

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Posted 15 June 2016 - 12:19 PM

I noticed I have the Near Side front bump stop missing. My MOT expires in a couple of months - not sure if this will be a failure but I'm going to fit one anyway.

 

So looking on Minispares website for a replacement, but now I have a couple of questions!!

 

Are the uprated progressive bump stops any good? I'm going to upgrade the complete suspension at some point anyway.

 

Do I need the packing washer and which side of the subframe does this go?



#2 racingbob

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Posted 15 June 2016 - 12:51 PM

yes it is a failure, just get the standard ones all i got on mine ( fast road car )

 

set them about 1/4 to 3/8 gap, mine are trimmed a touch

 

read somewhere the poly ones bit harsh no give

 

my race historic only had standard ones trimmed a bit and was fine



#3 Readers14

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Posted 15 June 2016 - 01:37 PM

yes it is a failure, just get the standard ones all i got on mine ( fast road car )

 

set them about 1/4 to 3/8 gap, mine are trimmed a touch

 

read somewhere the poly ones bit harsh no give

 

my race historic only had standard ones trimmed a bit and was fine

Cheers for the reply.

When you say set them about 1/4 to 3/8 gap, what do you mean?

I thought you just fit them to the subframe as they are?



#4 nicklouse

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Posted 15 June 2016 - 01:47 PM

 

yes it is a failure, just get the standard ones all i got on mine ( fast road car )

 

set them about 1/4 to 3/8 gap, mine are trimmed a touch

 

read somewhere the poly ones bit harsh no give

 

my race historic only had standard ones trimmed a bit and was fine

Cheers for the reply.

When you say set them about 1/4 to 3/8 gap, what do you mean?

I thought you just fit them to the subframe as they are?

 

yes you do just fit them.

 

the gap is more to do with having adjustable suspension.



#5 racingbob

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Posted 15 June 2016 - 03:49 PM

 

yes it is a failure, just get the standard ones all i got on mine ( fast road car )

 

set them about 1/4 to 3/8 gap, mine are trimmed a touch

 

read somewhere the poly ones bit harsh no give

 

my race historic only had standard ones trimmed a bit and was fine

Cheers for the reply.

When you say set them about 1/4 to 3/8 gap, what do you mean?

I thought you just fit them to the subframe as they are?

 

yes you do thats more for adjustable hilos

 

but make sure there is a gap there if not the rubber cones could be knackered

ive seen them touching the top arms which is not good



#6 Readers14

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Posted 15 June 2016 - 06:52 PM

OK, going to order the standard rubber ones from Minispares.
So, I take it the packing washers go on the outside of the subframe?

#7 Spider

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Posted 15 June 2016 - 08:57 PM

I run the progressive ones for a number of reasons.

 

IMO, they really are the 'bee's knee's', and quite unbelievable in how well they work.

 

If you don't want to use these, then I'd say consider fitting a standard Hydro Bump Stop over the any type originally for Dry suspension.

 

One HUGE advantage of the Hydro Stops is they fit to the arm so you don't have to dismantle the whole front suspension to change the bump stop as these mount to the arm. You'll have to drill out and then file the hole in the Hydro Bump Stop to fit them though, but that's no big deal.



#8 tiger99

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 10:35 AM

While you are there, check the rebound stops, which are also safety critical, as if missing they may allow knuckle joint disengagement. The dampers also help in that regard, but not necessarily if the ride height is non-standard due to misuse of HiLos or worn cones or knuckles.

The bump stops should do less work than you may imagine. They are not robust enough to take a real hammering, and are largely protected by the rapidly rising rate of the rubber cone springs (misguided coil spring users please note).

But both bump and rebound stops are there to prevent ball joint fracture, which will occur quite soon if the suspension is allowed to exceed it's safe travel.

There may be no such problems in this case, but in general checks are needed when going very non-standard on ride height, and different bump stops, shorter and harder, may be needed if you are going low.

#9 Readers14

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 11:07 AM

Not planning to go too low, only a small amount. It wouldn't make it over any of the speed bumps around here!!

 

I like the sound of the hydro bump stops as the subfame ones sound a nightmare to get to without dismantling the suspension.



#10 Spider

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 11:37 AM

But both bump and rebound stops are there to prevent ball joint fracture, which will occur quite soon if the suspension is allowed to exceed it's safe travel.
 

 

Actually yes and no.

 

Without the bump stop the top arm can smack in to the subframe without the ball joints exceeding their travel / angle limits. Not so with the rebound stop though.



#11 Readers14

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 01:22 PM

Hydro bump stops ordered from Minispares.

 

I'll let you know how I get on!!



#12 Readers14

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 04:10 PM

Mega quick delivery from Minispares!
The hydro bump stops arrived in the post today! Sent from the York depot.

#13 monkey

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 06:06 PM

While you are there, check the rebound stops, which are also safety critical, as if missing they may allow knuckle joint disengagement. The dampers also help in that regard, but not necessarily if the ride height is non-standard due to misuse of HiLos or worn cones or knuckles.


What is considered as misuse of HiLos?

#14 Spider

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 09:32 PM

 

While you are there, check the rebound stops, which are also safety critical, as if missing they may allow knuckle joint disengagement. The dampers also help in that regard, but not necessarily if the ride height is non-standard due to misuse of HiLos or worn cones or knuckles.
 


What is considered as misuse of HiLos?

 

 

I'm not sure what tiger is banging on about but I would consider 'mis-use of Hilos' to be as substitute for knackered rubber cones.



#15 tiger99

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Posted 18 June 2016 - 10:59 AM

Misuse of HiLos could indeed be using them to correct for worn-out cones or knuckles, but I was meaning simply adjusting them beyond the safe working range, as certain slammers etc seem to insist on doing.






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