57 replies to this topic

[jabos7]

Up into Fourth--

  When changing over to the tapered bearings, as mentioned above,  is it necessary to still use the spacer(s), or will

seating the race in the hub find its own depth from the machining of the hub---as it appears in the picture?   -thx

[Spider]

The 'spacer' for the Outer Cups on Tapered Rollers is in fact machined in to and part of the Hub, both Drum and Disc are the same in this regards..

 

For the Spacer on the Bearings, use the one that comes with the Bearing Assembly, they are a individually matched set, meaning, don't use spacers or other parts from any other bearing assembly, even another new set.

 

There's also another 'spacer' on the Drum set up, which usually just stays on the Drive Flange. It's on the 'shaft' of the Drive Flange and in fact is right on the Inboard side of the Flange itself, the seal runs on it. That is not matched and as long as it's in good order, any one is fine.

 

There's a bit more info on the Bearings here;-

 

http://www.theminifo...s/#entry3403631

 

but just be aware that those are on a Disc Set up.

[jabos7]

Excellent info.   In an effort to be certain I have true Timken products, I hoped to go to my supplier that we get our aviation-approved materials from at my workplace.  I think I found the Timken numbers on your pics from the link,  LM67049A on the bearings carrier (with 778 08 stamped as well?)

and LM67014 on what I call the "race".  -Is that what you're calling the Spacer?    -Or, as in the Haynes diagram of both drum/disc hubs they show

a spacer between the taper bearings as well, and if that is what you're referring to, does it carry its own Timken P/N?

 

If I successfully change my drum from to the taper bearings, do you think I can stay with the flat thrust washer on the drum hub instead of

a conical type that you showed in your fitment-to-driveshaft pics?   -thx

[jabos7]

A second look at your pics makes it appear that the spacer is indeed a separate piece, hopefully Timken numbered? 

 

And does it just drop into place where your 10.30mm gap exists as the bearing carriers go in and then center itself as the driveshaft

goes through?  Or maybe the clearances are such that it snugs right into place...

 

Many thanks--J

[MRA]

If you are fitting drum brakes or 7" discs use the flat washer, the cone washer fits into a cone hole in the drive flange.

 

and, yes & yes.

[tiger99]

If you are buying Timken's, or any other, they must come as a matched set with their own individual spacer. You can't just buy a few bearing part numbers off the shelf and throw them in a box together, as it appeared that certain suppliers were doing not long ago. But if your Timken's came as matched sets all will be well. But best to keep each inner gong and cage assembly with its own outer ring too.

The spacer will be loose. It is normal to fit both outers to the hub, dirt shield on the CV, inner bearing inner race only on CV shaft, then insert it in hub, put the spacer on from the outside, then the outer bearing inner parts.

[jabos7]

I'm still not grasping why I need a spacer internally between the bearings---  The construction of the hub appears like many other cars,

where you would put the inner and outer races in place, firm against the shoulder portion in the middle, then the roller carriers and seals behind them.

Insert driveshaft, etc.,then torque as necessary to ensure the bearings are properly seated/loaded against their respective races.

I can understand why a spacer might be necessary on the outside to make sure everything torques down properly, but anything on the inside

seems redundant.  ---help!

[Spider]

 The construction of the hub appears like many other cars,

 

Forget what you may know about other cars, that will lead you astray!

 

These are different as instead of the spindle being stationary and the Hub spinning, Minis are the other way around, the Hub is stationary and the spindle spins.

[tiger99]

Like the majority of front wheel drive cars and vans. Some white van bearings come with a set of shims to set the preload. On the Mini it is predetermined by accurate machining of the hub and selective grinding of the bearing spacer in the respective factories.

Almost all others use a one piece bearing with the two races permanently fitted to the outer body (actually one piece) and the two inners permanently fitted. The preload is factory set. The whole thing is a tight press fit in the hub and is held by circlips. Very difficult to change at home.

[jabos7]

More good info, and I'll accept your recommendations.  The assembly process makes sense as well.

One last query on this topic for me:  Do each of you normally press-fit the races dry, or I've heard of a

Loctite-type bearing race product to help keep it from moving?

 

Many thanks for your thoughts on this, it'll keep my massive project moving, extra tentacles and all...   -J

[Spider]

I do press rather than drive (with a hammer and dolly) the outer Cups and on these, I do Loctite them. They are prone to spinning in the Hub, so I try to do everything I can to prevent that.

[MRA]

Using a hand operated press is preferable to a hydraulic press, as you can feel it going in tight before any damage may occur, ensuring the 2 parts are square to each other certainly helps to avoid issues whilst being pressed in and using a hammer to fit any bearing is really not to be advised.

[tiger99]

People have been using a small hammer very carefully for over 100 years to do that job, when they don't have access to a press. Care and skill can substitute for expensive hardware. You have to tap them in gently and evenly, but never, ever hammer the bearing itself. I have never had a premature bearing failure and used to get somewhere near 100k miles out of Mini front bearings, and a lot more from the rears. But if I had a press or a large threaded rod, nuts and large washers to hand I would use them, still using modified bearing inner rings to do the pushing.

[MRA]

People have been using a small hammer very carefully for over 100 years to do that job, when they don't have access to a press. Care and skill can substitute for expensive hardware. You have to tap them in gently and evenly, but never, ever hammer the bearing itself. I have never had a premature bearing failure and used to get somewhere near 100k miles out of Mini front bearings, and a lot more from the rears. But if I had a press or a large threaded rod, nuts and large washers to hand I would use them, still using modified bearing inner rings to do the pushing.

 

It's better to use a softer piece of material such as brass or aluminium, but brass is best as any chips can be seen easier than aluminium but if you use a hammer or a press still use the soft material to avoid damage

[tiger99]

I NEVER hammer on the bearing! As explained earlier I use an old inner race as a spacer/drift, split (or alternatively, reduced in diameter by a couple of thou, which us extremely tedious unless you have a suitable grinder) to avoid it jamming in the hub. And, no bigger than a 4 ounce hammer.