31 replies to this topic

[CPC]

Hi Guys, whilst i have another thread going reference my 1380 A series, i thought id share my other project

 

Basically i started with this!

 

A 70% completed home built subframe, a slightly rusty mini shell and a collection of wiring looms and many other parts.

 

It had the dreaded over sills, holes in the floor and rusty doors.

 

After replacing the sills, holes and door skins i had a semi decent shell, i  then set about refurbishing the shocks and standard wheels.

 

I then started painting the shell, this was done on a budget using Rustoleum Combicolor and my Wagner W550 electric spray gun

 

It then took me about 2 weeks all in fully sorting the wiring... Its running the complete rover wiring loom spliced into the mini lights, wipers and fuel sender.. I have kept the diagnostic socket and remote immobilizer as well!!

 

After the wiring headaches i set about getting it running! after about a week chasing a broken fuel pump wire

 

First start Vid!!!!!!!!!!

 

https://youtu.be/SUWPjFB9TyM.

 

Now once running i had some issues.. my first gearbox that came with the car was strap!! so after doing some homework i sourced a 1.6 MGTF gearbox, had it rebuilt with steel caged bearings and a Quiafe ATB diff.. 

 

I had issues with my modified oil filter housing leaking so replaced my this

 with a cut down standard part

.

 

My Last major issue other than smashing a CV joint is that it wont not rev past 6500RPM, it have a K maps ECU with a 7450RPM limit..   After some homework and a brave pill we found it was a VVC issue, infact whoever done the headgasket on it before must have set it wrong when rebuilding it.

 

This was the ideal time for new cambelt kit, water pump and cam/crankseal gaskets

 

Its now running and sounding good!

https://youtu.be/uhIx9u90UjY.

 

At first fitted my large wheels and arches

 

But have more recently gone back to a more standard look.

.

 

 

Thats about it for now, but I have a set of Polycarb windows on order along with some sticky tyres for the upcoming Trackdays and Santa Pod events..

 

Basically current spec

1.8 K VVC 145 engine, with 52mm ported throttle body, light porting to the head, full race exhaust, K maps race map ECU with 7450rpm limit ( estimate around 160/170BHP)

PG1 gearbox with steel caged bearings and Quiafe ATB with with custom made driveshafts

Spax coilover conversion kit with rear beam and uprated springs

MG Metro 4 pot calipers with vented discs, Mintex M1144 pads, braided pads and bias valve.

6 pot rollcage with OMP TRS seats and Harnessess and a fully stripped interior

 

Id like to try get it down to 600KG and upto 180+ i

 

Thanks

Chris

Edited by CPC, 30 August 2016 - 08:37 AM.

[akitcarowner]

Your going to get alot of questions about the painting.

 

So I will be the first:

 

How? As in what primer did you use?

 

what paint to thinner ratio?

 

Any setting on the wagner and if so which one(s) did you use?

 

How long did it take and would you do it again? 

 

Always tempted with doing things cheaper if end results are decent.

[CPC]

Reference the painting... you basically prep the car as you would any other painting method.

 

You can buy Rustoleum primer but i just painted over the prep'd tack clothed and panel wiped surface.   The Rustoleum Combicolour i used is a primer and top coat in one. 

 

Yes i thinned it with a thinner called xylene (£15 for 5 litres on ebay) by about 15%..  2.5 Litres of Combicolor is £33 delivered again on ebay and my spray gun is a Wagner W550 bought from Argos for £40.  you must also remember to buy a mask.

 

I will say its takes ages to dry 100% and you need to make sure the 1st coat is 100% dry before the second coat, after that its takes about 1 week to fully harden, before it can be wet flatted and machine polished because you will get orange peel

 

Plenty of videos on Youtube, Mines not show standard but for a daily driver or track car its fine

 

This is my rear quater, i resprayed my whole car inside and out for about £140 inc buying the mask and gun

Edited by CPC, 09 June 2016 - 01:26 PM.

[Broomer]

Looks good.
All the best with k series mini ownership.

[Funkytwat]

Hi I wanted to know if you could make me a subframe k series and how much to sell it

[CPC]

Ive not updated this for a while!

 

I blew the VVC engine up at Snetterton and since replaced the engine with a 1.8 K series Turbo from a MG ZT,  Its running a Emerald K6 ECU and only mapped at low boost due to a duff turbo and clutch on the dyno..  These have since been replaced and now using a diesel Land Rover Freelander clutch... Running a boot mounted Mazda RX8 Radiator and side exit exhaust

 

 

A few of you may have seen or heard it at MITP,  managed a 13.49 @ 105.77 on dodgy tyres and low boost.. Should get into the 12's next time!

[Peskett]

Doing a similar conversion on my clubby estate and just wanted to know what intercooler you running. Love the times these motors are getting.

[CPC]

Its from a Renault 5 GT Turbo, compact but deep core.. was about £60 on ebay

[Broomer]

How does the turbo and manifold fit in that front? Does it stick out.

[CPC]

For anybody interested.. this is my rear rad setup... i need to tidy up the wiring and a few rough edges but its works well.

 

.

 

I also have a roof vent with 2 additional cold ram air pipes

[CPC]

How does the turbo and manifold fit in that front? Does it stick out.

 

This was the 1st effort

 

 

Then i rotated the housing and repaired the parts i cut out!

 

 

It does stick out but the number plate hides it

Edited by CPC, 30 August 2016 - 08:36 AM.

[CPC]

Not much to report!.

 

Had a good response at a local retro car show

 

 

And also a few pics in this months Practical Performance Car mag,   with a full feature in the mag next year

 

Over winter i shall be adding astra vxr injectors, wideband O2 sensor and a Mocal oil cooler kit,  then wind the boost up.. looking for 220bhp

Edited by CPC, 19 October 2016 - 08:24 AM.

[CPC]

This has now been stored for the winter and while I finish my 1380 mini.

I am going for 400BHP per tonne with it next summer, I already have suitable injectors and will buy a gt2560 turbo.. ( its been weighed at 590kg and 240 BHP is achievable )

To make it more interesting I will also be fitting my 10" exacton wheels

Edited by CPC, 23 November 2016 - 09:19 AM.

[duds100]

Just read through the whole build. Awesome bit of kit that, a lot of hard work has gone into this. Impressive 1/4 mile time too, especially on those yoko A539 tyres which are not the stickiest. I think it looks a lot better on the 12s than the 13s you had... & I think it will look better still on the 10s!  What arches are you going to run? Will you use yoko AO32r's?

 

Anyway - Congrats on a great build & rapid car. The only part i'm not mad keen on are the rear lights but I admire your individuality - keep up the good work & look forward to seeing future updates 

[CPC]

Just read through the whole build. Awesome bit of kit that, a lot of hard work has gone into this. Impressive 1/4 mile time too, especially on those yoko A539 tyres which are not the stickiest. I think it looks a lot better on the 12s than the 13s you had... & I think it will look better still on the 10s!  What arches are you going to run? Will you use yoko AO32r's?

 

Anyway - Congrats on a great build & rapid car. The only part i'm not mad keen on are the rear lights but I admire your individuality - keep up the good work & look forward to seeing future updates 

 

Cheers!..  too be honest i agree with you on the rear lights but they were already on the shell and Ive got used to them now.

 

I plan to try 165/70/10 1100 special wheels with the Yoko AO32r and the standard arches i have now.

 

That 1/4 mile was only done on low boost ( approx 180 bhp )..  but i dont honestly know how much faster it will be due to traction with the 230/240 bhp it should have next year..

 

Oh.. seen your car on youtube and really impressed!