3 replies to this topic

[OzMini850]

Just drained and removed the fuel tank and taken off the level sensor. Think it is the original 1964 tank. I drained it via the fuel line, only realised there was a drain plug once I had the tank out. When I removed the plug rust coloured fuel, with bits, came out. Fuel filter looks quite clean, but could be relatively new. Have driven about 1,000km without trouble. From the outside it looks in pretty good condition.

Any suggestions on how to clean up the inside of it, apart from pouring in fuel, switrling it around and pouring it out again.

Is it worth putting a second filter on, probably put it in the boot?

Cheers

[Retro_10s]

Hmmmm, well as long as there's no petrol in there you only really have 3 options i think.

A. I know you don't want to... but swirling petrol is a good method.
B. Brake cleaner/Carb cleaner is good at getting C**p out, try swirling that around and draining.
C Pour boiling hot water into the tank. It detatches rust and C**p very well. Just make sure you do it quickly and let it vent well or you'll get puddles and it'll rust the tank out.

No point in putting another fuel filter on, it may even hamper the fuel flow and cause a disruption meaning at higher revs your car will splutter as it can't get enough fuel fast enough because it's being sucked through two filters that are both limiting the fuel flow.

I would however move your current filter from wherever it is, to inside the boot next to the tank. but you'll have dirty fuel lines now anyway I guess. The theory being it's best to stop the muck going anywhere at all as soon as it leaves the tank. keeps your pipes cleaner too.

Edited by Retro_10s, 29 August 2006 - 10:08 AM.

[dklawson]

In 1964 the tanks changed. Prior to August or September they used the bolt-on sending unit that works without the voltage stabilizer. After August the stabilizer was introduced and the tank changed to accept the sending units that mount with the bayonet ring. Regardless of the type of tank... you probably wouldn't have been able to loosen the drain plug if the tank is old. It's easier to just wait until the fuel level is low enough to drain through the discharge hose/nipple.

Regarding the filter, are you talking about the screen on the pickup tube inside the tank? If so, you can't replace them without divine intervention. To remove them involves carefully aimed blows with a striking rod and hammer through the filler neck. The only reason to remove them is if the tank is really gummed up from old gas or if the tank is being lined with a "sloshing compound".

It won't hurt to put a second filter on the fuel line. If you're worried about the scuz in the tank passing through the screen filter, put a disposable one between the tank and your fuel pump to protect its valves. This won't cause you problems if you change it periodically.

As for cleaning the tank, that's a potential can of worms. There are many ways to clean the inside and all are best done with the tank out of the boot. However, you should be warned that cleaning the inside of the tank may create problems you don't currently have. The bottom of the tank is thin from being formed into shape and then the halves are spot welded together. On the three tanks I've cleaned, the cleaning process opened up pin-hole leaks either on the seam or adjacent to it. Once those open you have to have the tank lined (either professionally or with DIY kits). When you coat the tank you must remove that screen on the pickup tube and then you must put a separate filter between the tank and pump.

[OzMini850]

Thanks for the advice guys.

The tank must be the original because the sender unit has only the 6 screws, no bayonet fitting, yet the drain plug easily undid.

Didn't know there was a filter / screen inside the tank, this must be doing it's job as the filter in the engine bay is clean.

Think I'll end up going with the sloshing petrol method.

Thanks again, much appreciated.