31 replies to this topic

[Gary33031]

Found the relay I need at a source in Japan. It was a real mission, requiring me to use all my investigative skills. On top of that, they didn't speak English. Anyway they are shipping the new relay to another source in Tokyo who will then figure out shipping costs to Florida and send me a PayPal invoice for relay cost plus shipping. Should have the relay in less than 10 days. I'm not 100% sure the relay is bad, but since this part is so hard to find, I'm grabbing it while I can. I'm glad the connection in Japan is using PayPal, I feel I am protected.

[Gary33031]

So after much research, I was able to locate the elusive relay WYB101080. Not knowing if that was the problem I purchased the relay along with the AC control switch for fan and temp. I installed the new relay and problem persisted, AC compressor and condenser fan cycling on and off. I was able to obtain a new drier pressure switch which again didn't fix the problem. I did find that if I disconnected both wires from the drier pressure switch and connect 1 wire to a ground, the compressor and condenser units both came on and would run continuously, cooling the car perfectly. When I installed the pressure switch indicated above, I had to have the system evacuated and recharged. Although the system was now running without turning on and off, I was worried because the job of the pressure switch is to protect the system by shutting down if the system pressure is either to high or to low. Because of that, I located a new drier unit with the original pressure switch. Next hurdle was finding the proper connector with pig tail to plug into the switch and wire into the system. It's interesting that I was able to determine that Mitsubishi used the same connector in their late 90's AC system. I took the new drier with new pressure switch to a garage. They again evacuated the system changed drier and switch and recharged the system. I did find out that you have to use a binary pressure switch. That means it measures both high and low pressures, shutting down the system if the AC pressure drops to low or gets to high. System seems to be working properly now. I also now have an extra working AC relay and AC control switch. I guess since they are no longer being made it will be good to have them as spares. After all that frustration and money it turned out to be a faulty pressure switch. Again important note is that it has to be a binary switch.

[Gary33031]

Anyone know the High pressure and Low pressure limits for the binary AC pressure switch on a 1997 Rover Mini?

[Gary33031]

Anyone know the High pressure and Low pressure limits for the binary AC pressure switch on a 1997 Rover Mini?

[kommander]

Where do u get a new drier assembly and switch? Can you provide more detail, l have the same problem with my SPi, the clutch keeps cycling rapidly.

 

Thanks

[Gary33031]

Where do u get a new drier assembly and switch? Can you provide more detail, l have the same problem with my SPi, the clutch keeps cycling rapidly.
 
Thanks

What year is your Mini SPI?

[Gary33031]

Where do u get a new drier assembly and switch? Can you provide more detail, l have the same problem with my SPi, the clutch keeps cycling rapidly.
 
Thanks

What year is your Mini SPI?

Just an FYI, I have been able to find all of the parts I need for my AC system at http://www.dinky.co.jp/. They should have parts you need. There response is fast and they are good to work with. I am drilling down to where I think my AC problem is. I replaced the drier and the pressure switch. Had the system evacuated and recharged. I also had ordered the elusive AC relay and swapped that out with the old relay. Problem still wasn't fixed. When I studied the wiring diagram for the AC system, I noted that the binary pressure switch is also connected to the AC thermostat unit. I fortunately have located a new thermostat unit and I also ordered a newAC control switch. When I have parts in hand, I'll take it to my Mini guy. In order to install these 2 components, you have to remove the dash fascia. Not in my tech skills. I'm pretty sure my Old AC relay is good, so I will keep it for a spare. I know compressor is good, pressure switch is good, AC relay is good and now I will install a new control switch and AC thermostat. I'm hoping I have finally tracked down the source of my problems.

[Gary33031]

I am attaching some information I found related to the AC system in my 1997 Rover Mini.

Attached Files

•  Rover Mini AC.pdf   1.26MB   80 downloads

[kommander]

Hey man thanks a lot for all the info...wasn't logged in on the forum for a while...so l am now reading your messages.

 

Did you solve the problem?

 

Appreciate it. Cheers

Edited by kommander, 01 September 2016 - 09:38 PM.

[hennasxi]

Gary33031 thanks for the link to Dinky and the AC PDF info - I've recently bought a Jap spec 1999 built car and the air con doesn't work.  First issue I have is replacing a metal pipe that runs from the Evaporator inside the car to the joint on the bulkhead.  This looks like its part of the Evaporator, so I will need to remove all of that and either see if I can get someone to repair the pipe or I'll have to find a new Evaporator unit, probably from Japan !

[buznout]

Hi great thread for me at the moment. My recently imported 98 Cooper has an AC issue that appears to have occurred in the factory. The speedo cable was routed in front of the evaporator pipes and wore clean through one of the tubes. Must have happened a while back so hoping it is the only issue, else I will be fault finding pressure switches etc.

 

For reference I have found a British guy who lives in Japan who sources Mini parts for us with JDM minis. He sourced me a new old stock evaporator unit and had it shipped to Australia. I am planning to change the unit over xmas and hope to take a few pics as I have not found anything about the evap removal on the forums.

 

A/C HP line with speedo cable groove cut in it. This also caused one of the fuel lines to rub against the heater hose so will be replacing that also. Have relocated the cable behind the AC hose now as per the pic.

 

 

[Aria Aradhea]

First off, are you sure it's a relay problem?

My AC system was also engaging erratically, and after searching for possible solution (including the relays for the blower and compressor) it was found that actually the Thermostat Control Unit (usually mounted on the left hand side above the blower unit) is the culprit. I cannot find the exact model for my car (a 1990 Mini) as it's a different type with the injected/1275cc cars. What I did then is to buy a new generic thermostat unit and reroute the wiring to bypass the original thermostat.

[kommander]

The thermostat control is the most common fault on the AC system. Had mines replaced as well.

[Gary33031]

I apologize for not posting the success I had with my AC system. After finally getting the AC schematic, i was able to pin the problem down to the AC Thermostat module that plugs into the evaporator. If you open the passenger round air vent and look inside with a flashlight, you can see the simple connection. I guess I should have started at that end first. Any way, I now have a spare brand new compressor, AC relay, AC Control Switches, another new AC thermostat and a new compressor fan. Living in Florida, it is so nice to have a properly working AC system that blows ice cold air.

[Screwdriver]

Great to hear you resolved this! As a fellow Aircon mini owner, I dread the day I need similar investigation!