Aah, Im thinking about shortening the studs on the landrover bobbin mounts. I used 30mm long allen key socket head cap screws to hold the mount plates onto the engine and the box.
Edited by micraminiman, 12 October 2016 - 03:14 PM.
Posted 12 October 2016 - 02:35 PM
Aah, Im thinking about shortening the studs on the landrover bobbin mounts. I used 30mm long allen key socket head cap screws to hold the mount plates onto the engine and the box.
Edited by micraminiman, 12 October 2016 - 03:14 PM.
Posted 12 October 2016 - 02:38 PM
Posted 12 October 2016 - 05:12 PM
Posted 12 October 2016 - 08:10 PM
And see if you can get a set of Bondhus ball end ones. Theyre great, but getting hard to find now. Used them for many happy years. Also look at the "Pro Hold" ones with a wee spring loaded detent ball to hold the screws in place....
Posted 13 October 2016 - 03:30 PM
Aye thats close alright.
I used them because thats all I had lying around already. Typical Scot as they say..... (quite right too!)
What alternator is it your using by the way?
I have a Nippon Denso from a Dihatsu Charade, but the main positive terminal is sticking out the side and hampering fitment. I may have a fix for it, but its a bit of a pest. Theres not much room to play with behind the grill.
Posted 13 October 2016 - 04:37 PM
Mine came from Ebay and is for a Kubota tractor. It is 40 amp and as far as I know is the same as some Diahatsu or Suzuki Swift ones.
The positive terminal stuck out the side but I modified it as it would hit the grill. The mod was on my build diary when it was on the 16v Mini forum (before their server crashed and lost a lot of good info). If you click on one of my photos it should take you to my Photobucket page and the photos are still there.
Posted 13 October 2016 - 09:26 PM
Nice one, will give it a click and have a look. Thanks.
Posted 13 October 2016 - 10:43 PM
Posted 15 October 2016 - 01:38 AM
Posted 16 October 2016 - 12:12 AM
I am working on the drivers side and had to take the top arm back off to get the cone in. Bit of a pain with the engine in but I managed.
The bushes for the bottom arms are the minispares offset ones that help with changing the castor angle. They may be fine for standard bottom pins in a standard subframe but they are not going to work in mine without a bit of modification.
I questioned this design with minispares and thought the better solution is to correct the geometry in the arm.
They assured me they had sold loads of them without a problem.
As my bottom arm bush is held between two plates the metal inner bush will need ends that are at right angles to the pin. The bush supplied has the ends ground at an angle.
I will turn up a new pair on Monday and see if it fits better.
Edited by McMini 22, 17 October 2016 - 04:55 PM.
Posted 17 October 2016 - 04:59 PM
More bad luck! The inner steel sleeves do not come out of the rubber bushes for the bottom arms.
I had to make up a split mandrel and skim the steel sleeves on the lathe. If this mod allows the arm to slide about on the pin then I can make up a shim to take up any gap.
Posted 18 October 2016 - 08:43 AM
I had a bit of machining to make my bottom arms fit. The center steel tube I got with my new Poly bushes was a wee bit too long for fitting between the plates on my frame after I had made the frame to fit the old set I had before. Still takes a bit of a tap to get it all in, but it fits now.
Posted 18 October 2016 - 02:06 PM
Posted 19 October 2016 - 07:18 AM
Aah, now theres a thought! Ive got a long list of items needed, but the cosmetic stuff will have to wait until I can get this running first. Its all so much money to get it finished!
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