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Sealing Compound?


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#1 Kt1966

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Posted 02 May 2016 - 09:43 PM

Does anyone know what sealant to use on the blanking plate at the back of the dash into the engine bay?

It's like a putty, but I can't quite work out what it is or what it should be...

Thanks

#2 Icey

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Posted 02 May 2016 - 11:14 PM

You can't buy the original stuff as it apparently had some fairly nasty chemicals in it. You can use normal panel sealer or a calking material which you can get in stips. There is also 'Dum Dum' but I can't remember if that would do it, I think it would be OK but I can't remember what it's like to use.

Edited by Icey, 02 May 2016 - 11:14 PM.


#3 skoughi

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Posted 03 May 2016 - 07:33 AM

I ended up using a foam type adhesive strip and coated it in grease to help keep a seal and a form of protection, probably not the "correct" way but seems to be fine for me!

#4 Mini 360

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Posted 03 May 2016 - 08:15 AM

Silicon sealant worked fine for me.



#5 KaneH

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Posted 03 May 2016 - 08:51 AM

Tiger seal or any other polyurethane sealant. I'd avoid standard silicon as it will break down over time if exposed to oil and can also cause problems with reacting to paint if ever resprayed.

#6 Kt1966

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Posted 03 May 2016 - 09:15 AM

Many thanks - Googling "polyurethane sealant" gives loads of (inexpensive) options so I'm all sorted.

 

Thanks



#7 dklawson

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Posted 03 May 2016 - 11:46 AM

If you ever want to remove the panel again (and you likely will), don't use polyurethane or silicone sealant.  The Dum-Dum putty will be fine or a minimal amount of butyl caulk (the stuff mentioned Icey mentioned as being available in strips) will work well.  If you anticipate removing the panel every now and then, the foam tape that Skoughi suggested would be ideal.

 

On early cars that hole is left open apart from some cars where a sound deadening kit of heavy vinyl covered felt serves as a cover.  



#8 skoughi

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Posted 03 May 2016 - 12:23 PM

Once the panel is in place and fixings tightened then I took a blob of grease on my finger and laid on a smear on the join between the bulkhead and small panel then wiped off excess.



#9 spraybeater

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Posted 03 May 2016 - 03:31 PM

Frost sell a box of Body Caulk material  in black that stays soft, can also be used round window 

regulators  makes removal easier quite a lot in box so not expensive.

PU adhesive make it difficult to remove these parts ! and personally don't like anything that says

silicon near car body repairs or paint



#10 KaneH

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Posted 03 May 2016 - 03:57 PM

So long as you dont go lathering on the sealant like a fingerless blind man, whether PU or something else, you shouldn't have an issue removing again.

#11 gazza82

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 04:18 PM

There was a strip seal used on Wheeler Dealers with the recent Morris Minor episode which sealed the metal panels to the wood frame .. that came from the company that makes the ash frames I think. It's probably similar to the stuff used on the Mini in the factory.

 

I think this is the company as I remember seeing the sign outside and it was definitely Welsh .. http://www.dinefwr-j...rames-woodwork/

 

Might be worth a call ...



#12 666junky

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 05:17 PM

I had some kind of putty on a reel with a paper backing. Aparently used on caravans and sealing up old windows etc :) cheap for what it was... but expensive considering how little of it i actually used in the end.

#13 jsor26

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Posted 06 May 2016 - 10:50 PM

duct seal works great 



#14 myredmini

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Posted 07 May 2016 - 08:06 AM

Windscreen sealer is perfect.

#15 dklawson

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Posted 07 May 2016 - 12:28 PM

Repeating my earlier advice, choose any such sealant based on the expectation that you will want to remove the panel again.  Avoid strong glue-like sealers.  After all, your goal is to seal out noise, dirt, and fumes, not make an access panel a permanent part of the firewall.






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