9 replies to this topic

[blackbelt1990]

Morning all,
I've noticed recently that the brakes on my mini are not amazing, 8.4 inch disks with servo.

I know this could just be due to the fact that I'm driving more modern cars at the moment. But I'm also aware that in the 10 years of my ownership, I've never changed the brake fluid in the car!

What is the best way of emptying and refilling? Crack open the near side rear and blead the whole lot out through there?

Thanks!

[Ethel]

You need to remove it from all 4 wheels, it's absorbed water at that end you want to get rid of most.

[A-Cell]

Assuming it is UK spec RH drive, bleed sequence is
RH front, use this one until clean fluid comes out, then master cylinder with have clean, new fluid to flush thru rest of system
LH front
RH rear
LH rear

[gazza82]

Might be worth upgradin brake fluid to Super DOT 4 fluid as discs get hotter on heavy braking and this fluid has a slightly higher boiling point.

[Mini 360]

Assuming it is UK spec RH drive, bleed sequence is
RH front, use this one until clean fluid comes out, then master cylinder with have clean, new fluid to flush thru rest of system
LH front
RH rear
LH rear

I would have said the exact reverse order of that

 

Most recommend starting at the corner farthest away from the servo, ie, rear left, rear right, front left, front right.  I did this on mine and got a solid pedal in no time.  Done the same onall my cars with or without ABS and this has always been the recommended method from each manufacturer.

[Jordie]

Agree with 360...

Nsr, osr, nsf, osf is the way id be doing it.

[sledgehammer]

I always remove the dirty fluid from the master cyl reservoir first before bleeding ,  (top up with clean new dot4 fluid)

 

otherwise any grit / crap is getting pushed thru the seals - often ending up trapped there

 

in the past when they are dirty , I have taken the plastic ones off , washed them out till clean , blow them out with air line until completely dry

 

then refit & bleed system with new dot4 fluid

 

as above I always bleed from furthest point first - If any problems I bleed the master cyl unions first to check the cylinder is pushing fluid correctly

 

sometimes they can stop bleeding on a new system

Edited by sledgehammer, 02 May 2016 - 11:01 AM.

[A-Cell]

Rover repair manual. RCL 0193ENG 2nd edition
Service procedure 70.25.02
Front rear split
Handbrake off, KEep fluid topped up
LHF
RHF
LHR
RHR

[dklawson]

The bleed order is more important when there is air in the system.  Bleed in whatever order you want.  What is most important is getting the old fluid out and replacing with new.

 

As Sledgehammer said, you want to empty the reservoir of old fluid first.  Use a turkey baster or similar to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir, then refill with new clean fluid.

 

You are trying to flush the system.  Do not use the pump-pump-pump-release method where your helper pumps the pedal three or more times followed by you cracking the bleed nipple open.  Instead use the flushing method.  In this you and your helper use coordinated verbal commands to sequentially operate the pedal and bleed nipple.

 

Fill the drained reservoir with clean fluid... all the way to the top.

With one end of the bleed hose on the nipple and other end in a catch jar, you crack the bleed nipple open and call "down" to your helper.

Your helper pushes the pedal down and HOLDS it at the bottom.  They then call "down".

When you hear them call "down", you close the bleed nipple and call back with "release".

Upon hearing "release", your helper releases the brake pedal and when it is all the way up, they call "up".

Then you repeat the cycle by opening the bleed nipple again.

 

You repeat the steps above until the fluid coming out of the bleed hose is no longer brown and nasty but is nice and clear.

When you are done with the first wheel, go to the reservoir and top it up again.

Repeat this for each wheel until all are done and then top the reservoir up to the proper level.

 

Change the fluid every 2 to 3 years for DOT-3 and DOT-4.

[Ethel]

The order of bleeding will depend on the valves and master cylinder as much as the distance to the bleed nipple. The FAM7821 valve will close off the rear circuit with the pressure in the front circuit so start at the rear if you have one of those. The yellow band master has mechanical advantage favouring the top outlet.

 

All of this can be avoided if you use vacuum (syringe) to pull the fluid through,  or pressurise the reservoir, but that's more of a pain to top up.

 

Also press disc caliper pistons in to eject old fluid.