13 replies to this topic

[jameseddolls]

HI Guys,

 

jacked my car up for the first time on Saturday and just wondering what other places I can jack the car. I jacked up the car on the jacking point on the right near to the wheel arch. Does anyone know where you can jack the car on the front or back centrally as im a rookie. a diagram or pictures may help.

[David128]

You can jack on centre of front or rear subframe's  use a piece of square section steel or timber as load spreader can also lift via extra plates fitted at  floor rear corners if they are there. and at rear of front subframe where they flatten out past driveshafts.

Edited by David128, 04 April 2016 - 12:15 PM.

[59 Speed]

Avoid jacking the car under the body work, sills, floor pans etc... The standard jacking points built into the sill (small square holes at midpoint of the sill) believe take a mini jack but these are usually correded inside and wouldn't advise using them as a stong area to lift the car from.

Aim at using the underside of the subframes to lift the car safely.

Hope this helps,
Ian

[dyshipfakta]

I think your jacking on the floor sling points these aren't jacking points they will bend your floor. I cut them off jack on the subframes

[David128]

Maybe I should get a lower jack lol I have welded and braced what used to be the sling points

[sonikk4]

There is one official place to jack a mini up on which are the single jacking points in the outer sill each side. Now when these are in good condition they are more than capable of doing the job. However as most of us know what hides behind the outer sill is always a question.

 

The best place to jack your mini up with is the front and rear subframes. You do need to make sure you use the correct spot though.

 

Slinging points!!!! these were used to move a bare shell around the factory and are not suitable points for jacking your car. There is no reinforcement on the floors where these are mounted. Bare in mind a mini floor is formed from 0.9mm thick steel and hence why it distorts so easily especially on the front pans.

[jameseddolls]

There is one official place to jack a mini up on which are the single jacking points in the outer sill each side. Now when these are in good condition they are more than capable of doing the job. However as most of us know what hides behind the outer sill is always a question.

 

The best place to jack your mini up with is the front and rear subframes. You do need to make sure you use the correct spot though.

 

Slinging points!!!! these were used to move a bare shell around the factory and are not suitable points for jacking your car. There is no reinforcement on the floors where these are mounted. Bare in mind a mini floor is formed from 0.9mm thick steel and hence why it distorts so easily especially on the front pans.

 

sorry to be a pain, but do you have a picture of where I should be jacking the car up.

[nicklouse]

There is a square hole in the sill at each end of the cross member which is the jacking point for the supplied Mini jack.

 

if you are using a trolly jack then, as above, the subframes are good. where on them depends on what you are doing or going to do.

[sonikk4]

Just for a heads up the next pictures show the correct jacking point and also what its like behind the sill. Also pictures of the internal slinging bracket structure. Ignore the oversill as this is how i bought the car originally.

 

Jacking point external

 

Jacking point behind the sill

 

and internal slinging points

Rear

 

front

 

the external brackets are already off and these are what people assume are jacking points but they are not. Also make good rust traps. i normally remove them as a matter of course. However if you are going concourse then keep them on.

[jameseddolls]

You can jack on centre of front or rear subframe's  use a piece of square section steel or timber as load spreader can also lift via extra plates fitted at  floor rear corners if they are there. and at rear of front subframe where they flatten out past driveshafts.

sorry to be a rookie. Do you have a picture of the car jacked up on both sub frames, as im going to be jacking the car up over the weekend and just want to make sure im jacking up on the right point.

[the.stroker]

You can jack on centre of front or rear subframe's  use a piece of square section steel or timber as load spreader can also lift via extra plates fitted at  floor rear corners if they are there. and at rear of front subframe where they flatten out past driveshafts.

Warning
Please be careful when answering peoples technical questions that you do not misguide them into taking inappropriate action. Not only is this annoying, but it can also be costly and could even be dangerous if the wrong information is given. This is why we ask that only first-hand and factual information is posted in reply to peoples queries. If you are not 100% certain of your reply, be sure to point out your uncertainty.

We all want to help, however be mindful of the warning above which has be taken from the sub forum header page

[cal844]

You can jack on centre of front or rear subframe's  use a piece of square section steel or timber as load spreader can also lift via extra plates fitted at  floor rear corners if they are there. and at rear of front subframe where they flatten out past driveshafts.

Warning
Please be careful when answering peoples technical questions that you do not misguide them into taking inappropriate action. Not only is this annoying, but it can also be costly and could even be dangerous if the wrong information is given. This is why we ask that only first-hand and factual information is posted in reply to peoples queries. If you are not 100% certain of your reply, be sure to point out your uncertainty.
We all want to help, however be mindful of the warning above which has be taken from the sub forum header page

Well said!!


Okay, back on topic

I usually jack my minis on the plate below the inner end of the bottom arm(front)

On the rear I jack either side independently on the flat area just inboard of the rear wheel

[mad4classics]

Well for the front, if you feel like some woodwork: In some of the older genuine workshop manuals there's a dimensional drawing for a shaped wooden jacking block that closely fits the front subframe all the way accross snuggly between the tie bar ends. Makes lifting the front end a doddle. I can then position axle stands under the flat areas of the front subframe inboard of the wheels for safety.

Edited by mad4classics, 06 April 2016 - 10:40 AM.

[fwdracer]

Well for the front, if you feel like some woodwork: In some of the older genuine workshop manuals there's a dimensional drawing for a shaped wooden jacking block that closely fits the front subframe all the way accross snuggly between the tie bar ends. Makes lifting the front end a doddle. I can then position axle stands under the flat areas of the front subframe inboard of the wheels for safety.

 

Anything to spread the load under the front tie bar mount bracket and axle stands as described. Rear, use either the subframe rear corners with wooden block to spread, or toeboard/radius uarm inboard.

 

Never use floor pans.

 

Only use the original jacking points as roadside emergency with the OEM jack.

 

Never Use the middle of either the front or rear subframe cross members, despite it being easiest to access.