17 replies to this topic

[Callummax]

I've got my hands on a 1310 which needs its piston rings doing. I'll be doing it with the help of a friend of my dads who's worked on minis for years.

Whilst I'm in there with it all in pieces, I'm thinking of putting in a Kent 266/ similar cam..

The question is, what else would be good to replace/ check whilst it's all apart, bearings ect?

Also, would a lightened flywheel do much? I've read that they reduce torque, is this actually the case?

Cheers!

[skoughi]

Be prepared to replace everything! I just bolted together mine and have more or less done just that, and the bit's I didn't replace I probably should have! You say you're getting an experienced hand to help you, this will help greatly as I've done mine myself so have made a mountain of mistakes along the way which will probably come back to bite me. The more experienced chaps on here will give you the basic shopping list but at the end of the day it'll all depend on how much cash you've got, this'll determine how far you can take things and what you can ultimately do, also how much wear is on you engine to start with. Good luck!

[carbon]

The MD266 is a decent fast road cam, will work best with well ported head using 35.5mm inlets. Also need to make sure you're getting at least 8mm lift at the valve, A+ rockers may give less lift than this.

 

Weight of flywheel has no effect on torque output from motor. Lighter flywheel may give slightly better acceleration at med-high rpm, heavier flywheel will give smoother tickover and slightly easier pulling away from stationary.

[AndyR]

Why does it need the rings doing?

Have you had the bores checked for roundness/taper and had them honed? Otherwise add that to the budget or you will be doing it all again.

Andy

[Fast Ivan]

well here's what's on my list

 

strip, measure and inspect, 

crank journals and bores (especially if re-ringing) will need measuring at a minimum

 

cam shaft

cam thrust plate

cam bearings

big end bearings

main bearings

thrust washer

big end bolts/nuts

head studs/nuts

cam followers

core plugs

oil plugs

gaskets

oil pump

water pump

thermostat

timing gear, duplex

clutch plate

flywheel

diaphragm

clutch thrust bearing

clutch arm

top and bottom clutch pins

clutch plunger

rocker shaft

breather hoses

carb rebuild kit

 

on top of that around £500 of parts went in to my gearbox

head is going to come in at around £600

crank regrind around £120

possible rebore (if your bores won't take a hone) around £100 to the next size up

 

I'm sure there's more that others can add as well!!

[gazza82]

ignore ... Brain not engaged ...

Edited by gazza82, 14 March 2016 - 08:43 AM.

[Callummax]

well here's what's on my list
 
strip, measure and inspect, 
crank journals and bores (especially if re-ringing) will need measuring at a minimum
 
cam shaft
cam thrust plate
cam bearings
big end bearings
main bearings
thrust washer
big end bolts/nuts
head studs/nuts
cam followers
core plugs
oil plugs
gaskets
oil pump
water pump
thermostat
timing gear, duplex
clutch plate
flywheel
diaphragm
clutch thrust bearing
clutch arm
top and bottom clutch pins
clutch plunger
rocker shaft
breather hoses
carb rebuild kit
 
on top of that around £500 of parts went in to my gearbox
head is going to come in at around £600
crank regrind around £120
possible rebore (if your bores won't take a hone) around £100 to the next size up
 
I'm sure there's more that others can add as well!!

Thanks, I'm probably being stupid, but how would I know all the part numbers for those bits? Or are they pretty much universal?

Also, is it worth getting it all " balanced"?

Callum

Edited by Callummax, 14 March 2016 - 09:17 AM.

[gazza82]

You don't need to .. you need to know things like journal sizes on the crank and big-ends, etc .. only then will you know what part you need. You don't know yet whether the cranks has previously been re-ground or if the bores are OK to use +40 thou rings. Dry-assembly/test-assembly is the only way to find out what thrust washers you need.

 

How a look at the minispares site and you will see what I mean.

 

So strip the engine completely and clean everything .. then get the micrometers out!

 

Have a look around on the net and this forum .. plenty of posts on re-building engines

.

 

Balancing? Not really for a road car.

Edited by gazza82, 14 March 2016 - 10:11 AM.

[Fast Ivan]

I'm going to disagree with gazza on one point and that is the balancing, balancing the flywheel assembly is something worth doing

 

I have a spread sheet with it all on, including part numbers and costs (you might not want to add it all up though, lol) pm me if you want a copy

[MRA]

 

well here's what's on my list
 
strip, measure and inspect, 
crank journals and bores (especially if re-ringing) will need measuring at a minimum
 
cam shaft
cam thrust plate
cam bearings
big end bearings
main bearings
thrust washer
big end bolts/nuts
head studs/nuts
cam followers
core plugs
oil plugs
gaskets
oil pump
water pump
thermostat
timing gear, duplex
clutch plate
flywheel
diaphragm
clutch thrust bearing
clutch arm
top and bottom clutch pins
clutch plunger
rocker shaft
breather hoses
carb rebuild kit
 
on top of that around £500 of parts went in to my gearbox
head is going to come in at around £600
crank regrind around £120
possible rebore (if your bores won't take a hone) around £100 to the next size up
 
I'm sure there's more that others can add as well!!

Thanks, I'm probably being stupid, but how would I know all the part numbers for those bits? Or are they pretty much universal?

Also, is it worth getting it all " balanced"?

Callum

 

Hampshire ?  is that your day job ??

 

You will need to know certain specifics, like what block you have ?  as this will determine the main bearing type, cam bearings big end and mains and thrusts are specific to engine size...... then you have clutch is a verto ? or pre-verto ? a 180 or 190mm plate, what carb ?  the list is a good one but you will need to be specific on certain parts before you make any purchases.

 

NOTE:  You must only fit oversize rings to oversize pistons, ie +0.20" pistons need +0.020" rings etc etc.....

Edited by MRA, 14 March 2016 - 10:51 PM.

[Callummax]

I'm at university in Bristol, but my family home is in Hampshire! Thanks for all the replies!!

[dyshipfakta]

Why would It need all of these things? Are they that likely to be spent? I know of an a series on 115k without having have any such internals replaced. Just seems mind boggling I can understand for race or even tracked cars but road cars seems nuts.

[Fast Ivan]

Why would It need all of these things? Are they that likely to be spent? I know of an a series on 115k without having have any such internals replaced. Just seems mind boggling I can understand for race or even tracked cars but road cars seems nuts.

 

what would you recommend?

[dyshipfakta]

Sorry I am not the man to ask but just seems crazy that all of these a series need so many replacement parts even on low mileage stuff. Don't get it. It was more of a question then a statement I suppose. Would it be likely that the majority of the bearings in the lump would need changing?

I can deffinatly understand t stat, water pump etc

Edited by dyshipfakta, 15 March 2016 - 02:17 PM.

[Dusky]

While everything is apart you either change nothing or everything imho. Makes no sense just replacing the crank bearings and leaving the pistons or vice versa. Thats just my opinion