
What Amp Switches Do I Need?
#1
Posted 23 February 2016 - 06:44 PM
Could anyone please tell me what current rating I would need for switches for the following:
Heated rear screen.
Hazard.
Two speed heater.
Thanks!
#2
Posted 23 February 2016 - 07:38 PM
Amps draw on every circuit I could think if is covered in the FAQs if that helps, rule of thumb is +30% minimum on the amps, unless its a AC rated switch (see post in FAQs Electrical - Switches) when I use the rule of thumb divide by 3 - example 240v 10a switch = 3.33amps on a 12v circuit.
Edited by KernowCooper, 27 February 2016 - 10:52 PM.
#3
Posted 24 February 2016 - 03:12 AM
Amps draw on every circuit I could think if is covered in the FAQs if that helps, rule of thumb is +30% minimum on the amps
Dave can you add in a link ? I couldn't find it,
#4
Posted 24 February 2016 - 03:15 AM
Hi I'm looking to buy some nice toggle switches to replace the standard ones.
Could anyone please tell me what current rating I would need for switches for the following:
Heated rear screen.
Hazard.
Two speed heater.
Thanks!
Something to remember, is that the wiring MUST be capable of carrying more current than the fuse and the longer the wire the larger it must be to carry the same current as a shorter cable.
The fuse is there to protect the wiring and NOT the item that hangs off the end.
#5
Posted 24 February 2016 - 09:02 AM
As MRA has said correct fusing is essential it stops wiring fires.
#6
Posted 24 February 2016 - 06:13 PM
Amps draw on every circuit I could think if is covered in the FAQs if that helps, rule of thumb is +30% minimum on the amps
Dave can you add in a link ? I couldn't find it,
Here you go http://www.theminifo...trical-circuit/
#7
Posted 24 February 2016 - 08:15 PM
Also worth noting that the wires rating must also be dropped when you place wires within a bundle.
#8
Posted 26 February 2016 - 01:24 PM
Full plug and play kit with correctly coloured wiring tails, rated switches etc
All switches are LED tipped and the Hazards one flashes as the original would.
Contact me for a price if interested.
David
Attached Files
#9
Posted 26 February 2016 - 04:10 PM
#10
Posted 27 February 2016 - 11:22 AM
#11
Posted 27 February 2016 - 06:25 PM
Don't save money on toggle switches, even good ones are inexpensive. My dad, an electrician, has always told me to not just look for an amp rating, but a horsepower rating on switches. If there's just an amp rating, then it's a cheap switch. Look for at least a 1/2 hp rating, and 20 amp switch.
Interesting, as there are not that many switches for the automotive industry labelled with HP ratings in the UK, however they often have current (A) and voltage (V) which by definition does give you the power rating in Watts, W=V*A
For example 12v X 10A = 120W
#12
Posted 27 February 2016 - 06:37 PM
As pointed out you'll not see automotive switches with HP ratings on them just amps and voltage as MRA mentioned above
#13
Posted 28 February 2016 - 03:57 PM
http://www.carlingte...om/amp-hp-volts
My race car now only uses hp rated toggle switches, because we had a few cheaper ones burn out before.
I use similar to this:
http://www.amazon.co...rds=dpdt switch
It's 1/2 hp rated. You can tell from the feel of the hp rated switches that they generally feel higher quality. A quick look at amazon uk, they don't seem to list whether it's rated, but on the switch itself, I've always seen a stamp next to the amp and volt rating. I think the good switches are also rated up to 250 or so volts, too.
#14
Posted 29 February 2016 - 02:16 PM
Might be a US thing .... HP has always been important to you guys!
#15
Posted 29 February 2016 - 04:21 PM
Is it a big block switch ?
Seriously HP is just the old fashioned way of saying Watts..... if a switch is stated as being 10A for a 12V system then it will take 120w
1/2 HP = 372 W so of course they will be better quality, try aeronautical switches as most have silver contacts
Edited by MRA, 29 February 2016 - 04:24 PM.
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