847 replies to this topic

[Streetscreamer]

regulator: as you are building an injection system you have two choices, one or two line system.

With the one line system the regulator will be close to the tank, the overflow will be returned immediately to the tank. Only one fuel line with regulated pressur ewill go to the engine. 

With the two line system the regulator will be placed in the return line, close after the injector fuel rail. As you could see in the original BMW K setup.

 

Experience tells me the two line system handles better with sudden pressure drops created by batch injection. Even better you can place an accumulator in the delivery line.

[minisilverbullet]

regulator: as you are building an injection system you have two choices, one or two line system.

With the one line system the regulator will be close to the tank, the overflow will be returned immediately to the tank. Only one fuel line with regulated pressur ewill go to the engine. 

With the two line system the regulator will be placed in the return line, close after the injector fuel rail. As you could see in the original BMW K setup.

 

Experience tells me the two line system handles better with sudden pressure drops created by batch injection. Even better you can place an accumulator in the delivery line.

Yes I will run a two line system. It is already in place in the car (SPI).

 

I did wonder whether it should be placed on the return line or not, you confirm what i thought. 

[minisilverbullet]

I bought a 180 U shaped silicon hose for the head to block coolant (due to the dry decking). However, the crank breather is kinda in the way, so i had to trim  fair bit of the hose, in the end i wasn't really happy with the fitting. I will instead run 2 90 degree hoses with a join. Here is one 90 fitted (needs trimmed), i just need to buy another.

 

 

 

I also fitted the new standard crank dampener and torqued it up. 

 

 

I wonder if the crank positioned sensor pick up is close enough to the trigger wheel?

 

[Streetscreamer]

Sensor: often a gap of 1 - 1,5mm will do. But be sure the center of the sensor will be in center of the trigger wheel in order to have the best functioning.

 

Hose: so great to see your build as I will face the same issues soon. Currently the engine block is being decked in the machine shop for forged omega flat tops (with pockets). I have also drydecked the engine so for this matter I already bought two 90 drgree elbow hoses. They will be linked by a fleabay-chineze piece of anodized alloy for mounting a temperature sensor. But then this will become my take-off for the interior heater.

 

General: your photographing is telling so much and is very much apetizing !

 

Keep up the good work!

 

regards from Holland, Bart

[minisilverbullet]

Sensor: often a gap of 1 - 1,5mm will do. But be sure the center of the sensor will be in center of the trigger wheel in order to have the best functioning.

 

 

Yes I think I will ask SC to send one more spacer to bring the magnet into the centre of the wheel. 

[nicklouse]

You need an earlier breather can. I have a spare. Will take pics. And if you want it it will cost postage.
 image.jpeg   10.87K   3 downloads
Like this. Or you could get a breather part form DSN or modify yours.

[nicklouse]

Or maybe not if you have the servo there.

[minisilverbullet]

Or maybe not if you have the servo there.

 Yip I will have the servo! 

 

I have ordered another 90 hose and a joiner. If it doesn't work I will look at the DSN part 

[minisilverbullet]

Some final bits arrived today:

 

4.2 inch MED water pump pulley 

nippon denso alternator

Engine mount "plate" all the way from Barcelona (wasn't the easiest to find)

a 90 degree hose and connectors. 

 

 

 

 

Well the 4.2 inch  pulley clears the oil hose perfectly. 

 

 

It is amazing how small the denso alternator is! 

 

 

 

Seems like the 90 degree hose i tried to use before was pretty poorly made, I.E it wasn't actually 90 degrees. the new ones seems to fit much better. I will order one more and use a joiner and it will clear the crank breather just fine. 

 

 

Seems like the fan will not clear the oil hose. This hose had been a bit of a pain (see water pulley issue above). It was supplied as an add on to the kit. I think i will need to shorten the "legs" both sides of the cam belt. 

 

Next up is the clearance between the crank damper/trigger wheel and the radiator/engine mount bracket.

 

 

It clears but it is extremely tight. 

 

 

 

I hope it is enough just to grind the bracket a little? 

[nicklouse]

I would grind it a bit where needed. Also look at slotting the holes for the rad bracket so you can slide it away if needed.

[minisilverbullet]

I would grind it a bit where needed. Also look at slotting the holes for the rad bracket so you can slide it away if needed.

good idea!

[minisilverbullet]

looking at the gearbox/speedo housing/engine mount plate. It seems that it should be bolted to the speado housing using studs. (below). 

 

 

Not knowing this I have actually used 3.25 inch bolts. they are torqued up to 25nm

 

I guess this will be alright?

[nicklouse]

Mmmmmmmmm.

The idea is the UNC thread is in the alloy and the nuts are torqued so you are only pulling on the UNC threads not rotating.

Using bolts you could lift the thread causing potential oil leak issues.

[minisilverbullet]

Mmmmmmmmm.

The idea is the UNC thread is in the alloy and the nuts are torqued so you are only pulling on the UNC threads not rotating.

Using bolts you could lift the thread causing potential oil leak issues.

yeah I figured that if studs are what should be used then i should use studs. I just ordered the studs. (only a fiver or so)

[minisilverbullet]

 

Mmmmmmmmm.

The idea is the UNC thread is in the alloy and the nuts are torqued so you are only pulling on the UNC threads not rotating.

Using bolts you could lift the thread causing potential oil leak issues.

yeah I figured that if studs are what should be used then i should use studs. I just ordered the studs. (only a fiver or so)

 

Hold on! actually just checked again and the info on minispares suggests that bolts where used after 85.