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Bmw 16V K1100 1380 Engine


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#91 nicklouse

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Posted 10 June 2016 - 09:47 PM


DE161C8F-5664-4A42-9268-68503D836622_zps[/url]


 
There should be some terminals crimping on the ends and then pushed into the plug
 
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/section.php/249/1/large-superseal-weatherproof-connectors

^^ That sort of thing


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[URL=http://s1260.photobucket.com/user/nicklouse/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-04/589F9EEA-85D4-4095-8B5A-EB4C240EBAD1_zpsnrmg0da2.png.html]Posted Image

#92 matty...

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Posted 12 June 2016 - 08:45 AM

That trigger setup doesn't look like it will work, as the sensor needs to be a lot closer to the teeth without the chance of the magnet being influenced by objects near by.

This is how I have mine.

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#93 minisilverbullet

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Posted 13 June 2016 - 07:20 PM

So the MED damper is for sale http://www.theminifo...ampener-damper/ (120 with free postage). it just won't work with my set up. 

 

 

So bits and pieces that i need are trickling in. Some pipe fittings on the oil drains on the rear. 

 

7DE6EC97-5631-4676-8D6E-082BEF15A90B_zps

 

 

And then the filter housing 

 

380CE042-C0BE-42C7-BB38-462C3FC6D082_zps

 

Waiting in a biggish delivery from minispares for bits and bobs and some hoses from car builder solutions. 

 

In the mean time  i have tidied up the engine bay wiring a bit with some conduit and p brackets (pics to come) ands fitted some rivnuts in various places. 

 

That is about it for this update. Sweden played Ireland tonight and i had to replace the pads on the rear of my audi a4 which seized on on friday. 

 

Scary: 

 

525FE5E1-33F9-4899-8D4B-FF34B75BF62A_zps

 

56910459-34C2-48B1-A03E-C858E553E5F2_zps



#94 matty...

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Posted 13 June 2016 - 08:46 PM

You can use the med damper, you just need to machine a lug on the back for the toothed ring to sit on, and use screws to hold the ring on. The ring needs to be the same OD as the pulley also.

#95 HUBBA.HUBBA

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Posted 13 June 2016 - 08:52 PM

Looking really nice. Wouldn't a ball ended allen key help you get an angle to tighten the oil filter housing.

#96 minisilverbullet

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Posted 13 June 2016 - 09:11 PM

You can use the med damper, you just need to machine a lug on the back for the toothed ring to sit on, and use screws to hold the ring on. The ring needs to be the same OD as the pulley also.

 

Sounds a big beyond my skill level. I have ordered a standard damper and pulley. 



#97 minisilverbullet

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Posted 13 June 2016 - 09:11 PM

Looking really nice. Wouldn't a ball ended allen key help you get an angle to tighten the oil filter housing.

In the end i just cut 10mm of an old allen key



#98 minisilverbullet

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Posted 14 June 2016 - 08:23 PM

The Swedish postman arrived today lets call him Postman Patrik:

 

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Lots of silly parts you don't really budget for in a build (gaskets, fasteners, clips etc) 

 

To clear the cam belt you need to take of the some of the web of the water pump, the SC guide also states to shave the some material of the top of the water pump to clear the head, I trial fitted my pump and it fitted fine, so no need. 

 

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Pump fitted! feels like things are coming together. 

 

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Next up was fitting the radiator sensor to the "chinese" alloy rad, I did have fears that it wouldn't fit, since the communication with the seller was a little unclear. but it fitted perfectly. 

 

27EBE426-EE23-4AB3-9D84-71AB76EF9911_zps

 

When I ordered the Kit from SC i ordered their hose kit. I am not sure how the pipe from water pump to bottom radiator fit, but I guess it will become more apparent when i have the rad fitted. Basically the pipes must intertwine but I am not sure which way. Also there might be clearance issues so i fuss i need to trim the pipes a little.



#99 MR J

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Posted 15 June 2016 - 03:35 AM

Great build, very envious! Would look great if you replaced the normal bolts for socket head ones though


Edited by MR J, 15 June 2016 - 03:35 AM.


#100 minisilverbullet

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Posted 15 June 2016 - 09:06 PM

Great build, very envious! Would look great if you replaced the normal bolts for socket head ones though

I agree it would have looked a little neater. However I ran a small scale webshop selling UNF / UBC fasteners here in Sweden before. I have all the hex heads I need. 



#101 minisilverbullet

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 09:37 PM

Added the nut on the jackshaft pulley. It is just  the standard half nut normally used on the camshaft (though on the other end? if i understand correctly.)

 

it was tough to torque it up since i had to hold onto the pulley with one hand and the wrench with the other. It is tight, but  anyone know how tight it should be?

 

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Started wrapping the manifold i have little more to do but I ran out of the stainless ties i was using. It wasn't the easiest thing too do, but I think it is pretty neat. if anyone is doing this wear gloves and long sleeves, my hands are really itchy as i type.

 

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FInally all the unions and cables on for the oil drain 

 

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#102 FlyingScot

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Posted 16 June 2016 - 09:43 PM

Looking good mate. Not helping me as now I want one :D

FS

#103 minisilverbullet

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Posted 17 June 2016 - 07:50 PM

So I offered up my old alternator tonight and while there is a chance it will fit, it doesn't look great. A new small Denso Nippon alternator ordered. 

 

Other than that I have bolted on the new clutch slave:

 

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Seems the water pump pulley will rub on the oil hose (which runs from the block to the head), Is there smaller diameter pulley in the market? 

 

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Plans for tomorrow are to install the MPI fuel pump into my SPI tank. 



#104 fuzzy-hair-man

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Posted 18 June 2016 - 05:35 AM

 

Seems the water pump pulley will rub on the oil hose (which runs from the block to the head), Is there smaller diameter pulley in the market? 

 

http://www.theminifo...r-pump-pulleys/

 

4.2" here

 

4.75" here

 

3.875" here

 

3 7/8" (3.875) seems to be the smallest but given what was said in the link above it seems the largest pulley that will fit is best as the water pump can go too fast especially at higher revs.



#105 Richie83

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Posted 18 June 2016 - 07:37 AM

I actually fitted a larger diameter pulley for the reason above (pump was knackered after 1,200 miles). You may also find you need a spacer so the fan misses pipes, but yours look differently routed than mine.




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