847 replies to this topic

[Northernpower]

carb icing tends not to be an issue on injection.

I know its not a big problem but can occur The main types of icing fall into three catagories.

 

1. Impact Ice. This is formed by the impact of moist air at temperatures between -10°C and 0°C on air scoops, throttle plates, heat valves, etc. It usually forms whith visible moisture such as rain, snow, sleet. Most rapid accumulation can be anticipated at -4°C. This type of icing can affect fuel injection systems as well as carburettor systems and is also the main type of icing hazard for turbocharged engines.

 

2. Fuel Ice. This forms at, and downstream from, the point that fuel is introduced into the ITB or carburettor when the moisture content of the air freezes as a result of the cooling caused by fuel vaporisation.

 

3. Throttle Ice. This is the most common and causes the most problems. It is formed at or near a partly closed throttle valve (sometimes called the “butterfly valve”). The water vapour in the induction air condenses and freezes due to the venturi effect cooling the air as it passes the throttle valve. Since the temperature drop is usually around 3°C, the optimum temperature for forming throttle ice is between 0°C to +3°C although a combination of fuel and throttle ice could occur at higher ambient temperatures.

[Mrstars11]

Hi craig, 

 

Hows the engine running now? faced with my own fair share of issues again. 

which has ended up with the engine coming back out, im starting again. full strip down and rebuild. 

 

seems as though the thrust washers have gone. so the engine needed to come out anyway. So ive decided im going to strip it completey, and check over everything as i bought it as a second hand engine, so pistons, con rods, cams, all seals and gaskets etc etc. Its an excuse to buy some more shiny bits i suppose also. 

 

I did manage to get about 35 miles out of the car before it was dead again though. haha 

[minisilverbullet]

Hi craig, 

 

Hows the engine running now? faced with my own fair share of issues again. 

which has ended up with the engine coming back out, im starting again. full strip down and rebuild. 

 

seems as though the thrust washers have gone. so the engine needed to come out anyway. So ive decided im going to strip it completey, and check over everything as i bought it as a second hand engine, so pistons, con rods, cams, all seals and gaskets etc etc. Its an excuse to buy some more shiny bits i suppose also. 

 

I did manage to get about 35 miles out of the car before it was dead again though. haha 

Oh sorry to hear!

 

I haven't really had the chance to road test it. but certainly looks like it is now oil tight, 

[minisilverbullet]

And..... MOT'd

 

Not a single point

 

[MacGyver]

And..... MOT'd
 
Not a single point
 

So sorry you didn't get any points... 😭

Nice car you have! Better luck next time! 😂

[Richie83]

Cannot believe the bad luck you've had with this Craig. Fingers crossed this is it. The garage is looking great!

[Richie83]

Craig. Quick question. Where did you get your catch tank?

[minisilverbullet]

Craig. Quick question. Where did you get your catch tank?

 

Just a cheapy form a web store here in Sweden - https://www.mrtuning...er-0-5l-silver/

 

I went for it as it was small and had the outlets/inlets in the right place 

[minisilverbullet]

I have managed to get the mini out during the couple of breaks in the otherwise crappy weather over here, I am not completely happy with the how I have timed the cams. I have mucked about with the timing a fair bit based upon various peoples advice. I have tried the 1mm of lift suggested by SC, 2.4mm suggested based upon the what the bike had and lastly I decided to go halfway and time them to 1.7mm of lift. 

 

I am convinced that 1mm of lift is optimal. The torque is delivered very early and the car does seem to accelerate much which quicker. So I have decided to revert to the 1mm of lift. It is a real hassle, as I need to remove the spots, grill, starter, radiation, drop the oil, remove the belt, alternator etc. However, I am thinking I may be able to make the adjustment just using the cam vernier pulleys. In my mind, I think I can remove the cam cover, set the engine to TDC and reduce the lift by 0.7mm. lets see if that works. 

 

In other news, my daily ticked over quarter of a million kilometres yesterday. Quite a milestones (excuse the pun). All this talk about about environmentally friendly cars or electric cars, surely it is better to keep an existing car on the road for as long as possible? 

 

 

Also visited a nice private car collection yesterday and was met by the lovely little mini: back story is it is from a female only racing series called the "lady cup" 

 

[minisilverbullet]

So... I have retimed the camshafts to 1.1mm of lift. Car is much more responsive and torquey low don't in the rev range. I

 

 

 

I actually managed to do so without removing very much. In some sort of foresight, I had made a mark on the flywheel so I new where TDC. SO it was only to remove the starter, find TDC, loosen the vernier cam pulleys and set the lift to 1.1mm. Retightened the verniers, cleaned upon all the old sealant and applied new to the cam cover. 

[minisilverbullet]

Major road works on a main motorway, "forced" me to take an extra long round home, amazing what you can find:

 

1960s replica petrol station

 

[FlyingScot]

That’s cool, I like that very much

FS

[minisilverbullet]

So now everything seems to be working as it should. 

 

I turn my attention to things that could be improved. 

 

Brakes: I think there is not enough vacuum from the TBs to constantly feed the servo. I am never really sure how much "help" I am gonna get from the servo. Generally it is fine, but sometimes it is harder to push in the pedal than others. 

 

I am thinking now to add an electric servo pump. Car builder solutions sell one for approx 250 pounds, but I can source a volvo one for 50 quid. I think I might just try that . 

[Richie83]

Quick question. Does yours have excessive torque/bump steer? Ive had mine corner weighted and its much better, but still likes to pull to the right under hard acceleration.

[mini13]

on the vacuum pump front, the volvo one looks like a good bet, although I would expect that they are not meant to run constantly, so you might want to look at the volvo wiring diagram to see how they are driven, I expect they cut in and out to keep the vacuum in the servo toped up, baybe you could trigger it from the brake light switch.

 

Somethoing I have been looking into is alternators with a vac pump ont he back of them, although I was looking to use it to pull a vacum in the sump, rather than for the brakes, but all the alternators I have seen have been fairly big. more research needed.