Up Into Fourth
Posted 06 August 2017 - 10:46 AM
I am thinking about changing my cooling fan set up.
I had to cut a fair amount of material from the fan cowling, even where it bolts to the engine mount.It works but it isn't ideal.
The fan is also very close to the cowling as i had to use two fan spacers, to space away from the oil drain pipes. Everything is really tight that side of the engine.
I am thinking of removing the cowling totally and bolting the radiator onto the inner wing instead.
I wonder if this will be alright?
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 06 August 2017 - 10:53 AM
fan close to cowling is good.
it is the cowling improves the flow of the air. no cowling = less cooling.
look at moving the rad and cowling assy towards the inner wing a mm or so.
Up Into Fourth
Posted 06 August 2017 - 07:28 PM
I have moved the cowling back as far as I dare. It took a fair bit of slotting of the holes on the bracket just to clear the crank trigger wheel.
When I say the fan is close to the cowling, I should have been more clear. the fan actual protrudes out often cowling (since i moved it so much), howler it is ver close too the edges of the cowling.
Really needs looking at. It has been fine so far but I am afraid it won't last, especially since there is so little metal left on the the cowling and the bracket .
I winder if I mount the radiator on the wing will the engine moment be an issue.
Mr. 7-Port
Posted 06 August 2017 - 07:31 PM
If you mount the radiator on the wing the fan will blow the air at it, not through it. Have you sealed all the gaps between the cowl and the radiator?I have moved the cowling back as far as I dare. It took a fair bit of slotting of the holes on the bracket just to clear the crank trigger wheel.
When I say the fan is close to the cowling, I should have been more clear. the fan actual protrudes out often cowling (since i moved it so much), howler it is ver close too the edges of the cowling.
Really needs looking at. It has been fine so far but I am afraid it won't last, especially since there is so little metal left on the the cowling and the bracket .
I winder if I mount the radiator on the wing will the engine moment be an issue.
Camshaft & Stage Two Head
Posted 06 August 2017 - 07:49 PM
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 06 August 2017 - 07:52 PM
I have moved the cowling back as far as I dare. It took a fair bit of slotting of the holes on the bracket just to clear the crank trigger wheel.
When I say the fan is close to the cowling, I should have been more clear. the fan actual protrudes out often cowling (since i moved it so much), howler it is ver close too the edges of the cowling.
sounds like you need a bigger spacer on the water pump.
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 06 August 2017 - 08:20 PM
just to be clear you have 2 of these
http://www.minispare...|Back to search
try one of these
http://www.minispare...|Back to search
Up Into Fourth
Posted 06 August 2017 - 08:30 PM
yes to of those, but the the pulley is also spaced (MED).
I didnt know you could buy such a large spacer, thanks for the link
EDIT - actually I just checked and the pulley doesn't have a spacer.
Up Into Fourth
Posted 10 August 2017 - 07:18 PM
After fitting the mechanical oil gauge I can see that the oil temp crept up to around 117 on a spirited drive in reasonable weather.
I have decided to fit a oil cooler. However it seems like I have order the worlds smallest cooler. Not sure how much it will cool, but I am hoping enough.
Nicely made SETRAB, was bout more expensive that a Mocal, but it is a local company.
Just need to make up some lines with the correct unions.
I will also change to to Millers CTV (semi- synthetic).
In other news.... I still have an oil leak from the jackshaft, so I will change the seal.
Moved Into The Garage
Posted 10 August 2017 - 07:28 PM
looks like an MC one.
may be a tad too small.
Up Into Fourth
Posted 10 August 2017 - 07:36 PM
looks like an MC one.
may be a tad too small.
Might be!
The plan is to fit it left hand side of the air filter. Reason I went for such a small one, was so I could try and keep the cold air feed to the cabin. Even with this one I will need to trim the plastic intake a little.
I guess it is just to fit it and see!
Up Into Fourth
Posted 19 August 2017 - 06:23 PM
This little car is kicking my ass at the moment. Almost out of patience.
So short of pouring a gallon of petrol over it and torching it, I turn to you guys 
The oil seal on the old cam shaft needs replacing, it continues to seep oil , which is thegn thrown around by the fan and cam belt. Before I can even get to the seal, I need to remove the pulley (see pic) I have almost no idea how to do this. It leaked previously after the nut cam loose, so the new nut on it is well torqued up with loctite. When I tried to undo it with the cambelt still on and holding the crank still the pulley was just jumping the belt.
The belt is now of and I have a new one ready to go. But how can I get this nut off? I have tried holding the pulley with mole grips, but doesn't work. Would a impact gun do the trick?
Also to add insult to injury when I removed the sump plug the insert which has been used came out?
What are my options with that?
Mr. 7-Port
Posted 19 August 2017 - 06:36 PM
Up Into Fourth
Posted 19 August 2017 - 06:40 PM
Wrap the old belt round the pulley and grip it together with mole grips whilst positioning the grips so they are wedged against another part of the engine. That way the pulley won't move.
Excellent - will try that. Thanks!
Up Into Fourth
Posted 20 August 2017 - 06:15 PM
Removed all of this:
To replace this:
A real pain. Eventually got the jackshaft nut of using an impact wrench through the inner wing / wheel arch.
Still havent gotten to the seal as I didn't have the correct size allen key /hex bit for the cover. if this doesn't solve the leak.........
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