just thinking when you were re doing the timing disc you may have dislodged/damaged something.
I am sure this is the location of the original oil leak. Not the cam seals, which I have just replaced.
Posted 10 July 2017 - 12:03 PM
just thinking when you were re doing the timing disc you may have dislodged/damaged something.
I am sure this is the location of the original oil leak. Not the cam seals, which I have just replaced.
Posted 10 July 2017 - 12:09 PM
the seal on the (old cam) seals onto the SC pully, so check that oils not getting up the key way and out that way.
I will remove the radiator etc and check. It seems a lot of oil. The engine ran for 20 seconds and there was a fairly large puddle under the car.
Posted 10 July 2017 - 07:10 PM
Found the cause - I have lost the nut on the pulley. I wonder if i just replacing it will solve the leak? Or do you guys think the seal is damaged now?
Posted 10 July 2017 - 07:14 PM
Found the cause - I have lost the nut on the pulley. I wonder if i just replacing it will solve the leak? Or do you guys think the seal is damaged now?
i would not hope i would change. it might be ok but.....
Posted 10 July 2017 - 07:17 PM
Found the cause - I have lost the nut on the pulley. I wonder if i just replacing it will solve the leak? Or do you guys think the seal is damaged now?
i would not hope i would change. it might be ok but.....
I guess I can fit a new nut and run the engine and see if it leaks. I f it does then it is time to change the seals (that means off with the cam belt again, etc)
Posted 12 July 2017 - 12:38 PM
@minisilverbullet
not sure on the cams in it as i bought the engine 90% completed and have had the final 10% done by a motorsports garage, the guy i got the engine from wasnt too clued up on its build information, so i took a bit of a risk on it, i then took a second risk in not fully rebuilding it, and just had it dropped in the mini.
there have been a fair few issues with it to say the least, but its finally in and running now. I collect it from the garage tomorrow.
ive had them do a full custom re map and it was dyno'd up to 7500rpm, however it didnt reach its peak power as it was still climbing, but i was worried about the crank s have had it set to 7000rpm on the limiter.
I just need to get an oil catch tank as the breather pipe on the head seems to squirt a fair bit out when the engine is under load. so need to stop that going everywhere.
how did you get on with your leak? has fitting a nut sorted it out?
dom.
Posted 12 July 2017 - 04:55 PM
That nut will need some heavy duty thread locker for the final installation.
Posted 12 July 2017 - 08:48 PM
New nut fitted today with loctite. If my memory serves me correctly I didn't tighten too mush the first time round as i did it with the belts off.
This time I was able to hold the crank and then tighten the nut, as much as I dare.
I have just bled the radiator and I am happy to report the leak appears fixed.
Posted 13 July 2017 - 01:34 AM
I didn't tighten too mush the first time round as i did it with the belts off.
You see, if you do it with your belt off, you can lose your nut!
Posted 13 July 2017 - 04:22 PM
@minisilverbullet.
got it road tested today and got its mot certificate, so i drove it to work, the first time ive driven it in 11 months. oh my its quick, and i managed 10 miles before the bottom radiator hose came off the radiator and dumped all my coolant all over the floor.
Posted 13 July 2017 - 07:31 PM
@minisilverbullet.
got it road tested today and got its mot certificate, so i drove it to work, the first time ive driven it in 11 months. oh my its quick, and i managed 10 miles before the bottom radiator hose came off the radiator and dumped all my coolant all over the floor.
Well done!
Sorry to hear about the radiator hose. That is a right pain to get too. I have dropped my coolant 3 times in the last 4 weeks so I am almost a professional at fitting that hose.
Posted 16 July 2017 - 08:38 PM
I am sure this little car is set on testing my patience.
Well actually my mistake. I forgot to fully torque up one of the alternator bolts and also over tighten the fan belt. The belt lasted about 300 meters before it gave top and lost one of the cubes atet run through it. this also meant the belt twisted.
This meant dropping the coolant and removing the radiator again. It is a pain, but I am getting quick at it . I should have bought an industrial size tank of coolant.
New alternator belt fitted. Luckily I had some foresight to leave a gap large enough for a belt to squeeze through the engine bracket/trigger wheel.
Anyway all refitted, but the the jackshaft/ old cam shaft seems to still seep a bit of oil. SO I think I will change the seals. And you guessed it drop the coolant again and remove the cam belt again. I will replace this also as it is a bit nicked from coming on and off.
Posted 20 July 2017 - 10:50 AM
Really interested to see lots of stuff about this build. Damn photoshop and their hosting dramas!!!
Posted 20 July 2017 - 11:00 AM
Really interested to see lots of stuff about this build. Damn photoshop and their hosting dramas!!!
The images are back for me after the work Deathrow did on IE and Chrome; just wait and the picture should appear. by the way its photobucket, not Photoshop.
Posted 20 July 2017 - 08:44 PM
WOW the pictures are back! big thanks to Deathrow!!
SO the car is all back together. There is a tiny bit of oil seeping from the jackshaft pulley, I can live with that for the summer and then repair it in the autumn (replace the seal).
Made it to a car show!
The organizers apologized for making me park next to the BMW mini . Didn't bother me as it is someones pride and joy I guess.
People were really interested in the engine, seemed especially popular with sport bikers.
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