847 replies to this topic

[Richie83]

Looking good bud. Quick question (again I've read through so apologies if I've missed it). Did you block the throttle body breather? If so what with? Also which breathers are you running to a catch tank? Cheers.

[minisilverbullet]

Looking good bud. Quick question (again I've read through so apologies if I've missed it). Did you block the throttle body breather? If so what with? Also which breathers are you running to a catch tank? Cheers.

 

Hi Richie, 

Crudely I just blocked it with a inch ling bolt and hose clip. you can make it out in this pic:

 

 

 

To start with I ran a filter breather from the crankcase housing and the two breather lines (from the rear breather box and the cam plate) to a catch tank. The catch  tank then breathes using a filter under the wheel arch. 

 

I found that the crank case breather was a bit to smelly, so I added that to the catch tank too. 

[Richie83]

.



Looking good bud. Quick question (again I've read through so apologies if I've missed it). Did you block the throttle body breather? If so what with? Also which breathers are you running to a catch tank? Cheers.

 
Hi Richie, 
Crudely I just blocked it with a inch ling bolt and hose clip. you can make it out in this pic:
 

 
 
To start with I ran a filter breather from the crankcase housing and the two breather lines (from the rear breather box and the cam plate) to a catch tank. The catch  tank then breathes using a filter under the wheel arch. 
 
I found that the crank case breather was a bit to smelly, so I added that to the catch tank too. 

makes sense, thanks. So do you have anything going into the SC oil drain on the back of the engine? That's where mine currently go but SC tell me a catch tank would be better. Thanks for your help.

Edited by Richie83, 11 December 2016 - 06:55 PM.

[minisilverbullet]

A quick oil change isn't so quick when you have a sump guard and works bar with lamps to remove. 

 

I removed the guard and remembered that I had bought to lower engine steadies. so I thought I would add these. 

 

Was pretty straight forward, the left hand side even had a hole in the subframe. 

 

 

The bracket for the right hand side wouldn't work with the right hand forward facing steady already there, so I trimmed the bracket down, to use just 2 bolts. I guess that is alright. 

 

 

 

Other observations the sump guard is fouling the down pipe. Also the down pipe appears to be leaking slightly, highlighted by the soot on the join ( i guess that is what it indicates). I will buy a couple elf new clamps and hop that solves it.

 

In general the exhaust fitment is a bit of a dogs dinner, I remember i rushed it. I will fit some new clamps as said and turn the one that is low. I will also raise the CAT. I thought about 2 rubber bobbins either side, bolted through the floor and then a bar under the CAT. 

 

 

Oh back to the oil change, I managed to change the filter from underneath, so no need to remove the lamps.

[minisilverbullet]

 

 

.



Looking good bud. Quick question (again I've read through so apologies if I've missed it). Did you block the throttle body breather? If so what with? Also which breathers are you running to a catch tank? Cheers.

 
Hi Richie, 
Crudely I just blocked it with a inch ling bolt and hose clip. you can make it out in this pic:
 

 
 
To start with I ran a filter breather from the crankcase housing and the two breather lines (from the rear breather box and the cam plate) to a catch tank. The catch  tank then breathes using a filter under the wheel arch. 
 
I found that the crank case breather was a bit to smelly, so I added that to the catch tank too. 

makes sense, thanks. So do you have anything going into the SC oil drain on the back of the engine? That's where mine currently go but SC tell me a catch tank would be better. Thanks for your help.

 

 By breather box, I meant oil drain box. That I breathe to the catch tank together with the cam plate breather and the crank breather. 

[Northernpower]

A quick oil change isn't so quick when you have a sump guard and works bar with lamps to remove. 
 
I removed the guard and remembered that I had bought to lower engine steadies. so I thought I would add these. 
 
Was pretty straight forward, the left hand side even had a hole in the subframe. 
 

 
The bracket for the right hand side wouldn't work with the right hand forward facing steady already there, so I trimmed the bracket down, to use just 2 bolts. I guess that is alright. 
 

 
 
Other observations the sump guard is fouling the down pipe. Also the down pipe appears to be leaking slightly, highlighted by the soot on the join ( i guess that is what it indicates). I will buy a couple elf new clamps and hop that solves it.
 
In general the exhaust fitment is a bit of a dogs dinner, I remember i rushed it. I will fit some new clamps as said and turn the one that is low. I will also raise the CAT. I thought about 2 rubber bobbins either side, bolted through the floor and then a bar under the CAT. 

 
 
Oh back to the oil change, I managed to change the filter from underneath, so no need to remove the lamps.

I couldn't get the SC exhaust to seal with the SC clamps and ended up buying some motorbike stainless exhaust clamps. Even they would not fully seal and this affected the lambda reading and hence altered the fueling. I overcame this by using high temperature silicone exhaust sealant and the overfueling stopped because the lambda was getting the correct exhaust gas readings.

[Will16]

Love a proper build thread like this! What sort of power will it be producing?

[minisilverbullet]

 

A quick oil change isn't so quick when you have a sump guard and works bar with lamps to remove. 
 
I removed the guard and remembered that I had bought to lower engine steadies. so I thought I would add these. 
 
Was pretty straight forward, the left hand side even had a hole in the subframe. 
 

 
The bracket for the right hand side wouldn't work with the right hand forward facing steady already there, so I trimmed the bracket down, to use just 2 bolts. I guess that is alright. 
 

 
 
Other observations the sump guard is fouling the down pipe. Also the down pipe appears to be leaking slightly, highlighted by the soot on the join ( i guess that is what it indicates). I will buy a couple elf new clamps and hop that solves it.
 
In general the exhaust fitment is a bit of a dogs dinner, I remember i rushed it. I will fit some new clamps as said and turn the one that is low. I will also raise the CAT. I thought about 2 rubber bobbins either side, bolted through the floor and then a bar under the CAT. 

 
 
Oh back to the oil change, I managed to change the filter from underneath, so no need to remove the lamps.

I couldn't get the SC exhaust to seal with the SC clamps and ended up buying some motorbike stainless exhaust clamps. Even they would not fully seal and this affected the lambda reading and hence altered the fueling. I overcame this by using high temperature silicone exhaust sealant and the overfueling stopped because the lambda was getting the correct exhaust gas readings.

 

 

Do you mean the "mikalor" style band clamps? I didn't think they would clamp well. I thought I would go for good old fashioned u clamps. 

[Northernpower]

 

A quick oil change isn't so quick when you have a sump guard and works bar with lamps to remove. 
 
I removed the guard and remembered that I had bought to lower engine steadies. so I thought I would add these. 
 
Was pretty straight forward, the left hand side even had a hole in the subframe. 
 

 
The bracket for the right hand side wouldn't work with the right hand forward facing steady already there, so I trimmed the bracket down, to use just 2 bolts. I guess that is alright. 
 

 
 
Other observations the sump guard is fouling the down pipe. Also the down pipe appears to be leaking slightly, highlighted by the soot on the join ( i guess that is what it indicates). I will buy a couple elf new clamps and hop that solves it.
 
In general the exhaust fitment is a bit of a dogs dinner, I remember i rushed it. I will fit some new clamps as said and turn the one that is low. I will also raise the CAT. I thought about 2 rubber bobbins either side, bolted through the floor and then a bar under the CAT. 

 
 
Oh back to the oil change, I managed to change the filter from underneath, so no need to remove the lamps.

I couldn't get the SC exhaust to seal with the SC clamps and ended up buying some motorbike stainless exhaust clamps. Even they would not fully seal and this affected the lambda reading and hence altered the fueling. I overcame this by using high temperature silicone exhaust sealant and the overfueling stopped because the lambda was getting the correct exhaust gas readings.
 

 
Do you mean the "mikalor" style band clamps? I didn't think they would clamp well. I thought I would go for good old fashioned u clamps. 

Yes I do mean the Mikalor style and the adjusters sit nicely out of the way. I tried u clamps and they weren't as effective. You'll still need to use the exhaust silicone.

[minisilverbullet]

Booked in for a mapping session next week. 

 

Tuner has requested a provision for a knock sensor. Basically the sensor has a hole which goes over a M8 stud.

 

I guess it will work with a 5/16 stud/bolt also but i am struggling to think where it might fit.  

[Tupers]

One of the chaps on TurboMinis fitted his to the front mounting bolt for the top engine steady.

http://www.turbomini...d=458563&fr=175

[minisilverbullet]

One of the chaps on TurboMinis fitted his to the front mounting bolt for the top engine steady.

http://www.turbomini...d=458563&fr=175

That would be an appropriate place. though it is a little tight there on my engine with the dry decking.

 

I just need it mounted for the mapping session. 

 

 

i wonder if it needs to be in the actual block or can it be mounted on the head. 

[Northernpower]

One of the chaps on TurboMinis fitted his to the front mounting bolt for the top engine steady.

http://www.turbomini...d=458563&fr=175

That would be an appropriate place. though it is a little tight there on my engine with the dry decking.
 
I just need it mounted for the mapping session. 
 
 
i wonder if it needs to be in the actual block or can it be mounted on the head. 

Ive have some experience of this, the problem with mounting it on the head is, it will pick up more noise from the head than it will from knocking. This is exacerbated at higher revs (over 4000) and at the rolling road you're going to be doing a lot of that.

You will spend more time calibrating it than you will tuning it. Manufacturers spend an inordinate amount of time calibrating them and you'll want to avoid this.

The ideal position it as close to the head gasket as possible mounted on the block.

[mini13]

yeah as above, I think the only practical place without block machining is the top alternator bracket bolt.

 

to be honest i would expect a tuner to be using a set of det phones rather than rely on an unproven knock sensor

[Northernpower]

Yeah, I would agree with the top alternator mounting providing it's not picking up noise from the water pump at that end of the block. Have a listen with a screwdriver to that bolt and to the engine steady bolt.