847 replies to this topic

[Northernpower]

 

Looks good, based on a scary experience and take this as friendly advice take care with the front bonnet pins I had a pair pull through the inner wings on the outside lane of the motorway at high speed.
 
TP

I saw similar incident on a kit car being driven on a track day. I know they don't look as neat but that's why I fitted the aero catches because they give a much great surface area. If you stick with the pins, I suggest you bond a reinforcing piece (something like 1mm aluminium) on the reverse side of the bonnet and carry it right down to the leading edge so you don't end up with the airflow getting under it and levering it up..
 

I will also fit some leather straps to the front of the bonnet. 

Great idea, you've probably thought of this but if not, I suggest you carry the reinforcing far enough down to enable you to fix them through the reinforcing.

[minisilverbullet]

 

 

 

Looks good, based on a scary experience and take this as friendly advice take care with the front bonnet pins I had a pair pull through the inner wings on the outside lane of the motorway at high speed.
 
TP

I saw similar incident on a kit car being driven on a track day. I know they don't look as neat but that's why I fitted the aero catches because they give a much great surface area. If you stick with the pins, I suggest you bond a reinforcing piece (something like 1mm aluminium) on the reverse side of the bonnet and carry it right down to the leading edge so you don't end up with the airflow getting under it and levering it up..
 

I will also fit some leather straps to the front of the bonnet. 

Great idea, you've probably thought of this but if not, I suggest you carry the reinforcing far enough down to enable you to fix them through the reinforcing.

 

Many thanks!

 

I will (based upon your advice) make some plates to reinforce the fasteners and the strap.

 

The good thing with pins i used is that you need to push the bonnet down first to release them. 

 

many thanks 

[minisilverbullet]

This is awesome, so glad to see it running and to see you are happy with it. 

 

I have ordered the same arc angels bonnet after reading this thread, figured if i order it way before i need it, it should be here in time for when the twin cam is in, started work on mine yesterday, started stripping the old 998 apart to lift it out the engine bay. My 8v twin cam is very close to being ready also, just a couple of things to finish off on that. 

 

I think i am also going to invest in an electric rad it seems the engine will benefit from having one, and pretty much every twin cam thread ive come across has one. 

 

Your issue with the temp gauge is interesting as mine does the exact same thing now, if i switch ignition on it goes right off the chart within about 3 mins, my top reading is 180 degrees. I have also been told its an earthing issue so i will check that when i get to the wiring. 

 

Really looking forward to seeing what kind of power this makes as i feel like im only a few weeks behind you myself, so seeing how this does may spur me on a little. 

especially as yesterday was a disaster day as far as progress is concerned. 

 

thanks for such a detailed thread. 

 

dom. 

It will be interesting to get to the bottom of the temp issue. lets keep each other posted. 

[minisilverbullet]

Still a bit stumped by the coolant sensor. 

 

It is functioning correctly, given the live data on the laptop. 

 

But the gage raises to the red when the ignition is turned on.

 

Question - does the gauge actually take the temp from the coolant sensor (on any fuel injected mini)? or is it from the plug at the bottom of the radiator? 

So I spike to John at SC on Friday regarding the temp gauge. 

 

He suggested checking the earth continuity.

 

I set my alternator to the "buzzer" one end of the multi meter it on the earth wire on the sensor and the other on the body. The multi meter buzzed, I guess that means that the earth is good? 

[mini13]

Hi, do you kno the thread in head for the two oil drains at the back? is it M16x1.5?

 

http://i804.photobuc...zps7cdlwz8o.jpg

[HUBBA.HUBBA]

 

Still a bit stumped by the coolant sensor. 

 

It is functioning correctly, given the live data on the laptop. 

 

But the gage raises to the red when the ignition is turned on.

 

Question - does the gauge actually take the temp from the coolant sensor (on any fuel injected mini)? or is it from the plug at the bottom of the radiator? 

So I spike to John at SC on Friday regarding the temp gauge. 

 

He suggested checking the earth continuity.

 

I set my alternator to the "buzzer" one end of the multi meter it on the earth wire on the sensor and the other on the body. The multi meter buzzed, I guess that means that the earth is good? 

 

I would also test the continuity from the earth wire (sensor end) to the body with the wire disconnected from the sensor

[minisilverbullet]

Hi, do you kno the thread in head for the two oil drains at the back? is it M16x1.5?

 

http://i804.photobuc...zps7cdlwz8o.jpg

 

Nope 3/8 bsp.

[minisilverbullet]

 

 

Still a bit stumped by the coolant sensor. 

 

It is functioning correctly, given the live data on the laptop. 

 

But the gage raises to the red when the ignition is turned on.

 

Question - does the gauge actually take the temp from the coolant sensor (on any fuel injected mini)? or is it from the plug at the bottom of the radiator? 

So I spike to John at SC on Friday regarding the temp gauge. 

 

He suggested checking the earth continuity.

 

I set my alternator to the "buzzer" one end of the multi meter it on the earth wire on the sensor and the other on the body. The multi meter buzzed, I guess that means that the earth is good? 

 

I would also test the continuity from the earth wire (sensor end) to the body with the wire disconnected from the sensor

 

Yes! it was disconnected. SC have sent me a new firmware file for the ECU, fingers crossed that solves it. 

[Mrstars11]

Mini silver bullet, this may be a stupid question. But I ordered a sc dipstick do you have one of their dipsticks or do you use something else. I ask because the way I thought it was going to fit. It doesn't. Do you have a picture of the dipstick area on yours?

[Northernpower]

Mini silver bullet, this may be a stupid question. But I ordered a sc dipstick do you have one of their dipsticks or do you use something else. I ask because the way I thought it was going to fit. It doesn't. Do you have a picture of the dipstick area on yours?

I have one of their's on my 7 port. You need to bring it out on the left hand side and you may need to change the bend slightly to enable you to cable tie it to the oil transfer pipe.

Edited by Northernpower, 27 August 2016 - 09:49 AM.

[Mrstars11]

 

Mini silver bullet, this may be a stupid question. But I ordered a sc dipstick do you have one of their dipsticks or do you use something else. I ask because the way I thought it was going to fit. It doesn't. Do you have a picture of the dipstick area on yours?

I have one of their's on my 7 port. You need to bring it out on the left hand side and you may need to change the bend slightly to enable you to cable tie it to the oil transfer pipe.

 

agh, i thought i was missing something, in me head it was supposed to sit behind the trumpets, so that the yellow ring was front facing above the trumpet. does that make sense...but in actuality i was looking at it thinking surely this goes to the side under the trumpet, if im right, exactly as you have described. My engines not in the bay yet, how does this fare for checking the oil with the wing and stuff in the way? Ive not opted for a removable front end wondering if this is my best option of dipstick. 

 

thanks for the reply though much appreciated. 

[Northernpower]

 

 

Mini silver bullet, this may be a stupid question. But I ordered a sc dipstick do you have one of their dipsticks or do you use something else. I ask because the way I thought it was going to fit. It doesn't. Do you have a picture of the dipstick area on yours?

I have one of their's on my 7 port. You need to bring it out on the left hand side and you may need to change the bend slightly to enable you to cable tie it to the oil transfer pipe.

 

agh, i thought i was missing something, in me head it was supposed to sit behind the trumpets, so that the yellow ring was front facing above the trumpet. does that make sense...but in actuality i was looking at it thinking surely this goes to the side under the trumpet, if im right, exactly as you have described. My engines not in the bay yet, how does this fare for checking the oil with the wing and stuff in the way? Ive not opted for a removable front end wondering if this is my best option of dipstick. 

 

thanks for the reply though much appreciated. 

 

Checking the oil is no problem. The main thing to remember is to make sure you glue/fix it firmly into the existing dipstick hole. If you don't you will get a slight oil blow by at this joint. I ended up using some two pack adhesive. When you bend the tube be very careful, its softer than you think and remember to remove the new dipstick first. I did find its slightly different in the reading and it requires slightly more oil to fill it to the marks. When you bend the tube you may have to pull/push the dipstick in and out a few times until the tube wears in. The dipstick removes quite easily and you can see how much room there is from the picture I took before fitting the air filter. 

[minisilverbullet]

A bit of a frustrating day. 

 

I have my modified car registration test on Monday morning. 

 

I spoke to SC regarding the coolant temp as mentioned above, they sent a new firmware file. 

 

I tried to load this file today and halfway through the ECU triggered the relay ( i heard the click) and the  fuel pump started to run continuously.  The file upload got to the end and the stated "program failed". 

 

Now making it impossible to connect to the ECU and now making it impossible to start the car. 

 

I have tried several times to upload the new firms ware and a map but it just doesn't work. Tried uninstalling and reinstalling the software on the laptop with no luck. Also tied different version of the software as my ECU is labeled as a "storm 2" but the SC webpage states "Typhoon 2", not sure if it makes a difference.  

 

Really frustrated. And had to cancel the test on Monday. I am thinking the only solution is to send the ECU to England and have SC sort it. 

[minisilverbullet]

So running again. SC put me in touch with a technician who remotely took over my computer and programmed the ECU. 

 

It runs, but the temp gauge issue remains. It probably is an ECU issue, I.E i have the wrong ECU for my car. 

 

Another issue is the battery is draining after a day or two. I check the using a multimeter on amps between the negative cable and removed the fuses one by one, to see if any stop the drain which was about 1amp. All the standard fuses did nothing but when i removed one of the fuses on the SC loom the amp drain disappeared. Also when i remove the large connector to the mini relay pack the drain disappears. 

 

Nothings ever straight forward….

[Pickup76]

Quick question on the dry deck. In some of the early block pics it looks like the original head oil feed is still open in the block headgasket face. Did you leave it like this?