847 replies to this topic

[GraemeC]

I always set mine with a bit of free pedal.
The trick is to make sure you hit full throttle with the pedal on the floor (or just very slightly off). Anything else and you'll be straining the cable, clamps and linkages to the point they'll fail.

[minisilverbullet]

I always set mine with a bit of free pedal.
The trick is to make sure you hit full throttle with the pedal on the floor (or just very slightly off). Anything else and you'll be straining the cable, clamps and linkages to the point they'll fail.

Yip that is how it is now. thanks for confirming that 

[minisilverbullet]

Seems like your cable is binding somewhere.  There shouldnt been any play as long as the cable is seated properly in the pedal and throttle body, the throttle should snap back crisply.  I had a lot of binding in the cable when i put mine in, spent a long time making sure everything was clear and routed as cleanly as possible.  Check how the throttle returns without the cable fitted, and aim for that with the cable on.  The BMW bodies i had needed the return springs replacing as they didnt return well enough, and poorly they only have 2 springs for the 4 bodies.

 

Andy

 

Hi Andy,  they spring back really well without the cable, so as you say it must be binding somewhere. 

[minisilverbullet]

 

Seems like your cable is binding somewhere.  There shouldnt been any play as long as the cable is seated properly in the pedal and throttle body, the throttle should snap back crisply.  I had a lot of binding in the cable when i put mine in, spent a long time making sure everything was clear and routed as cleanly as possible.  Check how the throttle returns without the cable fitted, and aim for that with the cable on.  The BMW bodies i had needed the return springs replacing as they didnt return well enough, and poorly they only have 2 springs for the 4 bodies.

 

Andy

 

Hi Andy,  they spring back really well without the cable, so as you say it must be binding somewhere. 

 

 I have been messing around trying to find a way to route the cable to stop any tight angles. I have it positioned as good as i can get it. 

 

I guess it would be better with a RHD car.

 

At the moment I have it running over the top of the cam cover 

[AndyR]

Yeah it would be much better in a RHD car. If I remember exactly I ran mine up and in front of the cam pulleys (cable tied out the way) and then back into the throttle bodies. I found that the routing wasn't the problem really, but the sharp almost 90deg turn it has to make out the bulkhead and up to clear the manifold(being LHD). I used a bike "V" brake 90deg metal tube to do this. As u felt no matter what the cable would kink at the bulkhead. This made all the difference. I also lubed the inner cable up really well with white PTFE spray. Also check the route through the bulkhead throughout the pedal travel, as mine rubbed due to the arc the pedal creates due to the long distance from the cable attachment to its axis.

Andy

[nicklouse]

Cycles have had many solutions made for them over the years where tight bends are needed in the gear cables.
 
have a look at the Avid rollamajig they come in different colours.
 

[Northernpower]

Cycles have had many solutions made for them over the years where tight bends are needed in the gear cables.
 
have a look at the Avid rollamajig they come in different colours.
 

I tried to buy one a couple of years ago, are they still available?

[nicklouse]

there are others available if they have been stopped.

[minisilverbullet]

Great advice guys! 

 

In the end I went for the V brake attachment (called a noodle apparently). I bought a couple of designs. One which actually goes over the top of the existing cable housing, seems a smart solution (if it works). 

 

The gear cable solution: reading some posts on bicycle forums, I understood that these should not be used on bike brake lines but are suitable for the gear cable ( i guess it is to do with the amount of movement in the cable, but that is a guess). I figured that would also apply to car throttle cables.  I try the "noodle".

 

Thanks again for all the help guys.  

[nicklouse]

There are versions for brakes. They are metal. Reason strength. A rollamgig being plastic could shatter through the force applied during braking.

The force in a throttle system is way less.unless you don't have a pedal stop. Which is a good idea so as not to over force the throttle shaft(s).

[Alsprite]

Hi,

I'm new to this forum and actually probably an imposter as I'm looking at installing the BMW k1200rs head onto a Marina A+ block installed in a Bugeye Sprite in in-line configuration, not transverse.  Whilst I do love Cooper S Minis, I've had my Sprite "under construction" for almost 40 years and have it almost ready.  I'm just looking to maybe "soup up" the performance with a twin cam.

 

May I commend you on an excellent, very detailed thread of the challenges you have faced and the solutions all the contributors have provided.  This forum is terrific and most helpful.  It would appear that the "Build Guide" is not quite as comprehensive as one would expect.

 

I have a couple of questions : was the provision of parts from SC in "dribs and drabs" due to you receiving them as you paid for them, or because SC were slow to supply them to you and sent them in batches ?  I'm in Sydney, Australia and have been really peeved at the slow provision of the Build Guide from SC. I'm hoping this is not an indication of things to come when dealing with them.  I guess they were winding down for the Northern Hemisphere Summer break...  I don't want to bad-mouth them unfairly. I'm just looking for some independent views from those who have experienced their service.

 

Also, what amount of deposit were you required to provide SC to get the job started ?

[minisilverbullet]

Hi,

I'm new to this forum and actually probably an imposter as I'm looking at installing the BMW k1200rs head onto a Marina A+ block installed in a Bugeye Sprite in in-line configuration, not transverse.  Whilst I do love Cooper S Minis, I've had my Sprite "under construction" for almost 40 years and have it almost ready.  I'm just looking to maybe "soup up" the performance with a twin cam.

 

May I commend you on an excellent, very detailed thread of the challenges you have faced and the solutions all the contributors have provided.  This forum is terrific and most helpful.  It would appear that the "Build Guide" is not quite as comprehensive as one would expect.

 

I have a couple of questions : was the provision of parts from SC in "dribs and drabs" due to you receiving them as you paid for them, or because SC were slow to supply them to you and sent them in batches ?  I'm in Sydney, Australia and have been really peeved at the slow provision of the Build Guide from SC. I'm hoping this is not an indication of things to come when dealing with them.  I guess they were winding down for the Northern Hemisphere Summer break...  I don't want to bad-mouth them unfairly. I'm just looking for some independent views from those who have experienced their service.

 

Also, what amount of deposit were you required to provide SC to get the job started ?

I agree this forum is great, I certainly could not have progressed through this build without it. 

 

I paid in full for the kit and the build of the short block. It was the build of the short block which delayed the despatch of my kit. 

 

The extra parts that arrived later were due to errors. The wrong loom sent out, missing fuel regulator, incomplete terminal on the new loom. SC dealt with these issues really promptly. 

 

 

As you say the build guide wasn't as detailed as i needed, but might be enough for more advanced readers. It seems the guide was written some years ago. One thing which I felt let down by was the the misinformation in the guide regarding the cam lift. in the guide it states 2mm, but after specking to SC it turned out they had updated this and that the cam lift was only 1mm, This meant I had wasted a day timing in the cams with outdated data and another evening cleaning all the parts of sealent. 

 

I would say they for the most part they have been extremely helpful. It is useful to remember they are only a couple of guys so they are often busy, so it helped me to be keep this in mind and be a little patient. 

[mini13]

As your down under it might be worth talking to Matt Read at ReadSpeed in Brisbane who has done a number of conversions, and gets his on bits manufactured.

 

https://www.facebook...2494518057/home

 

 

 

Hi,

I'm new to this forum and actually probably an imposter as I'm looking at installing the BMW k1200rs head onto a Marina A+ block installed in a Bugeye Sprite in in-line configuration, not transverse.  Whilst I do love Cooper S Minis, I've had my Sprite "under construction" for almost 40 years and have it almost ready.  I'm just looking to maybe "soup up" the performance with a twin cam.

 

May I commend you on an excellent, very detailed thread of the challenges you have faced and the solutions all the contributors have provided.  This forum is terrific and most helpful.  It would appear that the "Build Guide" is not quite as comprehensive as one would expect.

 

I have a couple of questions : was the provision of parts from SC in "dribs and drabs" due to you receiving them as you paid for them, or because SC were slow to supply them to you and sent them in batches ?  I'm in Sydney, Australia and have been really peeved at the slow provision of the Build Guide from SC. I'm hoping this is not an indication of things to come when dealing with them.  I guess they were winding down for the Northern Hemisphere Summer break...  I don't want to bad-mouth them unfairly. I'm just looking for some independent views from those who have experienced their service.

 

Also, what amount of deposit were you required to provide SC to get the job started ?

[minisilverbullet]

Finally the wheel cylinders arrived from minispares, I replaced the faulty one today. Next up was bleeding the brakes, on the last caliper I, thought  I would just nip up the nipple a 1/4 turn more and it sheered off. The minisport calipers use an M10 insert which the nipple screws into. I wonder if I can just use an M10 nipple? 

 

Spent a good few hours mounting the exhaust. Ended up having to take an inch of the Y piece as the system was too long. I had to do it on the car, as i couldn't get the Y piece of. Not my favorite lying upside down with an angle grinder. Though the exhaust is now on. 

 

I have never been happy with how low the CAT hangs. it just seems like the system needs another mount /support there. I wonder if anyone has added an extra mount.

[minisilverbullet]

Still waiting for my bonnet from arc angels. 

 

Ordered it on the 22nd of July and was told it would take 2 weeks. I asked if I could pay extra to have the order expodited. We agreed on a sum and they said they would do it over the coming weekend. 

 

Was told that the courier would pick it up on the 28th (I paid about 70 quid for the courier).

Nothing has arrived. I ask what the status was last wednesday and was told they would send me a tracking number. I never received it. 

 

Dont mean to rant, just frustrated. 

 

However! AndyR was kind enough to send me the bonnet he modified (pics on previous page) It might arrive tomorrow.