847 replies to this topic

[minisilverbullet]

excellent thread minisilverbullet. 

I enjoyed reading it through, i myself have just purchased a complete engine with 8v k100 head. I have bought one second hand that has done around 10k miles, so i wont have to do all the building etc that you have, but your thread has still been very informative. I am now concerned about bonnet clearance though, i also prefer the arc angels style one, it seems to look more like a standard bonnet. I may even treat myself to a carbon one. we shall see. 

 

one quick question, the foam filters over your trumpets, what sized ones did you buy? I read somewhere that k&n offer a filter that fits these, but i cant see how the cone filter would fit behind and in the engine bay, like you say the foam ones could be trimmed down to fit in. I think i will be opting for the foams too, just have no idea on size. 

 

thanks, for such an in depth thread though. 

 

 

Most (ITG, Pipercross and RAMAIR)  will do two sizes large and small, I bought try small RAMAIR, approx 70mm internal diameter. 

 

A set of K&Ns will work, they will need to be short and you will need to remove the trumpets.  

[minisilverbullet]

Looking the large oil drain pipe from the head to the old fuel pump provision, I wasn't at all happy with the placement as It touched the manifold. I wrapped the pipe in heat wrap and the manifold was wrapped too, but it was bothering me. - It was a ready made hose from SC, that just didn't seem to work for me

 

So off with manifold to try and find a better path. I routed it under the "T" shaped hose, before it was over and ran parallel along the cam pulleys. I had various offcuts so was able to make it work

 

It actually clears the cam belt and fan blades better now also 

 

 

 

 

 

When I refitted the manifold i reduced the clearance I had with the bulk head, Created a bit more room for the bonnet may still be able to use the standard bonnet with a lift at the rear.

 

Also fitted the Y piece. I am a bit unsure if it is on the correct way. can anyone confirm? 

 

 

 

 

The exhaust does appear to fit, a tad close to the selector box, but i guess that is how it is? 

 

Onto the brake serve vacuum. Ordered the parts i needed: some Ts a Y, 4mm, 5mm and 9mm vacuum line a reducer and a nice little one way valve. 

 

 

 

[nicklouse]

Back to the bonret. Leave it to last
Play with the steel one and then replace with one that works and looks good.

Even if this means for now having your lifted.

Or hit with a hammer to give clearance,

By then it might be time to visit the uk do you could save on postage.

[minisilverbullet]

Back to the bonret. Leave it to last
Play with the steel one and then replace with one that works and looks good.

Even if this means for now having your lifted.

Or hit with a hammer to give clearance,

By then it might be time to visit the uk do you could save on postage.

 

You make to sound like I am obsessed with the bonnet (maybe I am )

 

I have actually ordered from Arc angels. I just thought I would try the old one, since I moved the engine back slightly. 

[jamesmpi]

I had a nightmare with my SC Stainless manifold. The angle of the Y piece was all wrong meaning it either forced the exhaust downward and closer to the road surface or up an into the gear mech.
In the end I ditched it and went for a maniflow LCB

[minisilverbullet]

Catchtank fitted and plumbed in. 

 

I original had a nice 1L one from opb, but i couldnt find anywhere to fit it. It would go under the wing but that aint the most convenient place to view the sight pipe. So this 0.6L one will do, it is a bit cheap and cheerful but it fits. It vents from the old fuel pump which is now an oil drain and the cam plate in the head. I will add a filter and run it under the wheel arch. 

 

 

Made a bit of a simple miscalculation with the exhaust. I am running the SC 2" down pipe and Y pice and my 1.75" back section. To join these i used a reducer, but it meant that the 2" and 1.75" sections where butting against each other, making the system 4 inches too long. I will need to find a different reducer which will allow the 1.75 section to slide into the 2" Y piece. Or try and source a 2" diameter flexi to CAT section. Any tips. 

[GraemeC]

I'd be looking at a different approach to the bonnet problem.

 

Taking inspiration from the Miglias that drop the body further on the subframe, why not space the whole body up slightly?  Then adjustable suspension can be used to drop the whole car back down again to get the looks right.

 

Alternatively get someone to panel beat a bulge into a steel bonnet - would look quite smart if done right (I suspect the bulges in the f/g are far more than you need).

[AndyR]

I like yourself wanted the stock bonnet look.  But in the situation i was in at the time i had to bodge a solution, so i bought a standard fibreglass bonnet from arc angels and fashioned the smallest possible bulge in as i could get away with.  Now i have more time i am dropping the engine slightly in the subframe to get the clearance.  Removing a few mil from the wok engine mount surface and from the engine mount block on the other side, this should drop it enough to give me the 10mm clearance i need.

 

This is what i ended up with

 

 

The bonnet fit was not great - but you might be lucky.  I do prefer metal though.

Edited by AndyR, 28 July 2016 - 02:59 PM.

[minisilverbullet]

I like yourself wanted the stock bonnet look.  But in the situation i was in at the time i had to bodge a solution, so i bought a standard fibreglass bonnet from arc angels and fashioned the smallest possible bulge in as i could get away with.  Now i have more time i am dropping the engine slightly in the subframe to get the clearance.  Removing a few mil from the wok engine mount surface and from the engine mount block on the other side, this should drop it enough to give me the 10mm clearance i need.

 

This is what i ended up with

 

 

The bonnet fit was not great - but you might be lucky.  I do prefer metal though.

 

 

Andy, I actually think that looks great! 

[AndyR]

If you want it you can have it!

[minisilverbullet]

Well the engine turns over. Bit of a relief as it didnt at first.  

 

Spent the day finishing of bits and bobs. Charged the battery, all ready to go and…..nothing.

 

Checked all the wiring with a multi meter and everything seemed fine. I looked at the trigger on the starter and it was on the smaller terminal (that is were it fired and that is what others had explained to me). I remember AndyR said he needed a new terminal on the loom as the SC one didnt fit on his starter. Looked at photos I took when i took my old engine dot and right enough I had the trigger on the wrong terminal. I still had parts of my old loom, so i had the correct terminal and the correct wire so i replaced that section. 

 

And it turned over. 

 

Oil pressure just on the starter reaches 75-80 lbs, I guess that is good?

[nicklouse]

Yep that is good.

[minisilverbullet]

Waiting for the last bits to arrive. 

 

Thought I would set the throttle cable. The cable has one fixed end and one end which is adjustable using one of these -

 

I guess it will need to be pretty tight to be reliable. I have put the fixed end at the throttle bodies, as it is a bit tough for adjustment there.  

 

The throttle cable itself has a threaded section ( i assume for fine adjustment). Unfortunately the BMW cable holder would not allow for any adjustment:

 

 

So I thought it best to grind it a bit shorter:

 

 

Should be a bit easier to fine adjust now. 

[minisilverbullet]

Tried to adjust the throttle cable tonight. 

 

I have a couple of questions.

 

Should there be a couple of mm of play in the actual pedal (in any mini)? I do remember that before the conversion my pedal had some play in it. 

 

Second question - the cable lis adjusted correctly so the throttle returns to its stop on the adjustment screw (at least most of the time). But is the speed of return too slow? 

 

Video.: http://s804.photobuc...p4.html?sort=3

[AndyR]

Seems like your cable is binding somewhere.  There shouldnt been any play as long as the cable is seated properly in the pedal and throttle body, the throttle should snap back crisply.  I had a lot of binding in the cable when i put mine in, spent a long time making sure everything was clear and routed as cleanly as possible.  Check how the throttle returns without the cable fitted, and aim for that with the cable on.  The BMW bodies i had needed the return springs replacing as they didnt return well enough, and poorly they only have 2 springs for the 4 bodies.

 

Andy